Models > CGR3742CDC > Instructions

CGR3742CDC Magic Chef Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for CGR3742CDC parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the CGR3742CDC
31-45 of 248
Search Instructions
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump". Need help?

oven would not heat up.

  • Customer: Marc from Abington, PA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Remove the oven racks. Slide the two catches, located at each rear corner of the oven bottom, toward the front of the oven.

Lift the rear edge of the oven bottom slightly, then slide it back until the front edge of the oven bottom clears the oven front frame. Remove oven bottom from oven.

Pulled storage drawer out to the first stop position. Lift up front of drawer and pull to the second stop position.
Grasp sides and lift up and out.

Under storage area, I removed two screws to remove a steel plate. In the oven, I removed two screws that held on the Oven Igniter. Unplugged the Igniter under the storage area.

Plugged in the new Oven Igniter, replace the two screws that held the Oven Igniter, replace the two screws for the steel plate. Put the storage drawer back, the bottom of the oven back and the racks.

It was easier than I though it would be.

Oven would not preheat and gave 'F1' error

  • Customer: Joshua from Reno, NV
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Had to unplug unit, remove back of unit (6 screws), then unscrew oven sensor (2 screws), then unplugged old sensor, replaced it and put back of oven on...Moving the oven out and working in the tight space avaialble was the most difficult. Other than that, super easy job that probably saved me a lot of $$$...

My wife destroyed the oven door seal with oven cleaner...

  • Customer: David from Bexley, OH
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I ordered the part one afternoon. It arrived before noon the next day. Then I simply removed the old seal (with about 2 dozen spring clips). Inserted the new part by carefully inserting the new seal into its corresponding hole at each end and then worked my way around the seal while inserting each attached spring clip into its corresponding hole.

My oven wouldn't light.

  • Customer: Anna from Valparaiso, IN
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
I located the igniter element, and remove the two screws that hold it in place. I then went around to the back of the oven and located the wire, and disconnected it. Then I pulled it out through the oven and removed it. I then replaced it with the new element; pushed the wires through to back of the stove and plugged it in. With that done, I screwed the new igniter element into place. I then put my oven back together; pushed it back into place and turned the gas back on. And presto! my oven lights like new again. I saved myself the costly repairman visit, and the job was easy.

Oven wouldn't heat

  • Customer: Adawel from Brooklyn, NY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the burner to which the igniter was attached to. Then I attempted to removed the two screws holding the igniter in place. However, these screws proved to be difficult. I called a local appliance repair shop and the person I spoke to explained how the screws were designed to go one way. Any attempt to remove these screws would result in the threading to be stripped and virtually impossible to remove. (I have never heard of these type of screws before) Anyway, he recommended a hack-saw. Well, the hack-saw worked. After that, the replacing of the part was very easy. Igniter works perfectly and now my wife is ready to conquer the bake sales.
This was my first time using partselect.com.
Yes, I will recommend them to other homeowners.
Thanks. A.T

F-3 error code

  • Customer: Mark from Lake Orion, MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the two screws that attach the sensor to the oven wall. Then removed to more screws in the back of the oven and took off the rear cover, diconnected the sensor connector and installed the new sensor.

inner glass busted

  • Customer: robert from orange, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
I removed door by opening it to first stop and lifted it up off the hinge's. I removed all screws that held the inner panel to the outer panel and handle. Removed inner panel from outer panel, then glass and insulation, replaced glass and insulation and panel.

Replaced screws and handle,pulled hinge's out to first stop and slid door down on hinge's. This took about 20min. to do, most anybody handy with a screwdriver can do it.

PS: shipping was fast and price was great.
Thanks Bob G.

Inner Galls on door was craked

  • Customer: Randall from Katy, TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Remove outer panel first, outer glass and handle come off as one piece. Be carefull to secure as last screws are removed. Remove inner silver panel. Remove broken glass and replace with new. Reaassemble. Around 10 Phillips head screws altogether. Much easier than I thought

oven wouldnt light or would light inconsistently

  • Customer: Jay from Hubbard, TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
igniter would heat but oven wouldnt come on or would intermittently.opened door a little and lifted it off removed racks and bottom shield removed wingnut and burner shield,removed 2 screws holding igniter ,took off lower shield to allow access to plug,unplugged old one plugged in new one replaced shield and 2 screws holding igniter,put oven back together in reverse order,works like new :) ps if unit not unplugged from wall be careful igniter is hot with electricity and will bite you OUCH!

long delay before igniting - long time for oven to heat up

  • Customer: Dace from Arcata, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
The repair was easy. Partselect processed my order quickly and my part was delivered sooner than I expected.

Removing the old igniter was simple. I took off the oven door to create easy access to the oven. I then unplugged the connection and removed the screws that held the older igniter in place. Installing the new igniter was almost as easy. I followed the same steps as above, but in reverse. I accidentally dropped one of the screws, so installation probably took 1 minute longer than removal. :)

I'm a very satisfied customer.

burner would not ignite

  • Customer: Scott from Sacramento, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Even though the ceramic insulator looked new (white), it had become non-functional, replacement was simple, 2 phillips screws, reassemble and test. Now I will have to order the other 3.

F3 code, oven wouldn't heat.

  • Customer: Shaun from Kimball, NE
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
First pulled the oven out and noticed how dirty the floor was underneath. Bachelors are BAD housekeepers. Next I removed the oven door (just slides off the hinges) to make it easier to reach in and unscrew the two screws holding the sensor in place in the upper left back of oven. Screws came out easily. Then I removed the back panel by removing the six screws holding it in place. I unsnapped the temp sensor wiring connection, then pulled the probe out from the front (inside the oven). Installed the new probe by feeding the wires and connector through from the front (inside the oven) and attached it with the two screws. Then went to the back again, snapped the wiring connectors together, and replaced the back panel. Then I scrubbed the floor, pushed the range back in place, reinstalled the door, and gave it a test run. PERFECTION! Heated to within five degrees of setting. EASIEST REPAIR JOB I'VE EVER DONE!

Stove wouldn't stay lit and would fire unless the gas was turned on the range top .

  • Customer: Allen from Swengel, PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the drawer and the flash plate underneath .
Unplugged the igniter then opened the & removed the over door . Lifted the bottom plate to expose the burner and igniter . Undo the 2 screws holding the igniter in place . Replace the igniter and reach underneath and plug the wire connecters together . Place all the proper things in their place .. and it was finished ...
The biggest snag I ran into was the one of the 2 screws stripped out when when taken things apart .. but I have taps and found a few new screws and replaced them ......
Quite easy fix .. don't a pay repair man to do it .... !!

Oven would not heat consistently

  • Customer: Leland from Orting, WA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
I needed to remove the rear panel to replace the sensor, but unfortunately, that was not the problem. It could have been; but also, it could have been the electronic control, or the gas control valve. This was the cheapest "trial" fix. I did talk to a "Warranty Repair Man", who said that IF it was the electronic control, because of the age of the oven, (13 years) the part would not be available and would need to be fabricated by the manufacture. Even then the cost would approach the cost of a new oven. So, we abandonded the idea of repairs to this one. I guess 13 years is a bit to much to expect of a machine this day and time. Things are made to use-up and throw away. Such is life ! !

Oven temperature lower then setpoint.

  • Customer: Robert from Massapequa, NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
After shutting the main valve behind stove. Removed all shelves and rear cover from stove. Unplugged the plug to the sensor. Removed the two mounting screws and pulled the old sensor out. Installed new sensor and plugged it in again. After reinstalling the rear cover and shelves, replugged in power, openned the gas valve behind the stove and tested with soapy water to make sure there wasn't ant developed leaks. Turned on oven with a test thermometer in it. Monitored operation and now oven temperature is roughly 10 to 20 degrees to the setpoint.
All Instructions for the CGR3742CDC
31-45 of 248