CGR3742ADW Magic Chef Range - Instructions

Since I had never done anything like this, I watched your video twice. The oven door and racks came out easily. The wire connectors had burned, fusing the plastic parts. I cut them off and spent more time looking for a wire stripper than on the repair. The new igniter looked just like my 1993 oven part. Works great. Be SURE to unplug and turn off gas before starting!

Ordered the part from this site. It arrived In the time thy said it would. Removed old oven igniter and replaced with new one. Removal of screws and old igniter. Replaced with new igniter and put screws back nd it was working again

We received the burners we ordered in timely manner, and it was very easy to install. Just unhook the old burners and drop the new ones in and connect.

Called a repairman who came to the house to check the oven and stated it could be one of 3 things but he was not sure what it would be. Stated 2 of the parts would be $200 and the third would be a rebuilt part costing $400. At his suggestion we ordered a new oven. However, before it came in the old oven started working so we cancelled the order. When it would not light a few weeks later, we went to the Maytag website and was directed to PartSelect. We found the list of problems, located the part we needed and received it within 2 days. We watched the video on the PartSelect site on how to install it. We paid the repairman $80 for showing up and he had no idea what to repair. We paid $42.28 total to repair it ourselves. Thank you!! We would recommend your services to anyone before calling for professional help!!

I first looked online at a video on how to replace the igniter prior to recieving the part. The part arrived 2 days after I ordered it (Christmas Day) and was an exact replacement. Taking the oven apart was the most difficult issue since there was some grease missed in the last cleaning plus a couple very tight screws. The igniter unplugged easily and reinstalled without cutting/splicing any wires. Oven was back together and fired up within 20 minutes. Outstanding service and would highly recommend PartSelect.

Unscrew the bottom cover, remove the old ignitor. Reverse the process to install. Hardest part was getting the bottom cover screws out because of rust. Otherwise, very simple.

I have and in the wall Magic Chef oven CGW3330ADW seriel 10799876US that came the purchase of my home 10yrs. ago. After a black out and 2 brown outs my oven would not start and the F3 code is beeping and the "door lock" light was on but the door was unlocked. The clock was working fine, but could not use the timer or set the temperature. I googled "FLASHING F3 code" and one of the results was the comment thread on the Parts Select website. When I clicked the link I read several customers sharing their story that was very similar to mine. I was able to click on a video and see a short demonstration on "HOW EASY" it was to replace the "Short Oven Sensor Kit." I though, "Yea right!" I left a comment on that You Tube video with my make and model and a brief explanation of my problem. I received a reply to my comment with in 24 hours, confirming what other consumers had shared...The "Short Oven Sensor Kit" was needing to be replaced. I ordered the part for around $30 VERY late on Thursday evening and when I woke on Friday morning, I a shipping confirmation email. I received it VERY early on Saturday morning! I was able to replace the part very easily with in about 10 minutes. I was VERY LUCKY that I was able to to the repair WITHOUT having to remove the oven for the wall! I would have had to pay for help if I had to remove it from the wall. The Parts Select web site save me over $400 which was the estimate for the parts and labor from a local appliance repair business! I was told that it would probably be cheaper or about the same as buying a new over which was their recommendation. I am so glad that I decided to do the research and in less that 1 hour I had my order placed. Thank You Parts Select!

Repair was super easy, Remove Screws. (the hardest part was trying to remove the edging of the door without cracking it, or breaking the tabs used to secure it) Once I got the edges off, I slid the front of the door off, removed the screws and braces holding the outer glass. Picked out the broken pieces, cleaned all the glass and inside the door and put it all back together. If I didn't clean everything, it would've taken half the time.

Removed broken endcaps & screwed on new ones. Perfect fit, speedy delivery! Looks like a new range. Very pleased!

I replaced the Dual Oven Safety Valve and that didn't fix it. Turns out that even if the igniter glows it still can be the problem. Since the igniter is in the circuit of the Dual Oven Safety Valve, each igniter is responsible for their half of the Dual Oven Safety Valve. Apparently as the igniter ages the ohms of the igniter go up reducing the voltage below the 3.3V to 3.6V necessary to open the valve (bi-metal strip wrapped with cal rod wire inside of Dual Oven Safety Valve). Once the ohms go up and the voltage goes down no gas is released from that half of the Dual Oven Safety Valve. So it will appear that the Dual Oven Safety Valve is bad but that is not the case. It will be the Igniter corresponding to the burner that is not lighting.

Make sure power to the oven is disconnected. Remove all shelves. Partially open the bottom door and yank it out so it is out of your way. The igniter is next to the back and upper wall of the oven inside the lower (broiler) compartment. The igniter is held by two screws which I opened using a 5/16 or 8mm nut driver. After removing the two screws, remove the back plate using a regular phillips screwdriver. Next, pull out the two igniter wires until the connector comes out. Pressing the side tabs disconnect the igniter from the connector. Connect the new igniter. If nesessary, replenish some of the insulation with new insulation that arrived with the new igniter. Push excessive igniter wiring back, remount the backplate using the phillips screwdriver. Remount the new igniter using the nutdriver. Remount the bottom door. Put all shelves back. You are done.

I removed the sensor from the oven using a philip screw driver. The sensor was removed by removing the two screws holding it in place in the upper left hand corner of the oven. I had to disconnect the sensor on the back of stove. Then I pulled the old sensor through the hole inside the oven. Then I installed the new sensor by putting the wire of the sensor through the hole where the old sensor was removed. Then I hooked up the wire in the back of the stove. Then took the screw driver and replaced the two screws holding the sensor in place. It was very easy to do and the oven is doing fine now.

Cut off the electricity at the junction box. Removed two screws from the sensor at the back of the oven. Then pulled the sensor with the wire out of the installation hole in the back of the oven. Disconnected the quick connect plug from the sensor and reconnected the new part. Reversed the process and screwed the two screens back into the oven wall. Turned the electricity back on and started up the oven. (Everything ran well for about three days when the oven again signaled "F-5" indicating the oven was again not functioning properly. Restarted the oven and is currently running properly. My spouse does a lot of baking with this oven for cookies, roasts, etc. Next time it fails I will be forced to call a repairman as I believe there is something wrong other then the heat sensor.

the repair was not difficult ,take time cause back panel has to be removed to gain access to unplug the temp sensor ,it appear to work but the digital clock still flash not all the timebut it should not flash , not sure that i have fixed it

Removed glass and then two screws to remove metal plate pulled out socket,disconnected two wires and installed new socket.