CGR3740ADW Magic Chef Range - Instructions

watched video provided when ordered part; follow the steps, easy as pie

Undid screws on front and some on the back and replaced part and put screws back on and it fixed the proble

The only difficulty with following the supplied video, is that my ignitor did not come out as easily as a few turns of the screwdriver. The screws stripped as I tried to remove them, making them twirl in their holes. I had to apply back pressure for them to come off and free the ignitor for replacement. Other than that, the installation went smoothly, and the oven sprang to life within 10 seconds of turning it on.

I simply followed the "general" instructions from the online video "Partselect" provides and perused the instructions included in the kit. The OEM igniter was much longer than the replacement but the new part was spec'd just fine. It was necessary for me to open up the back of the stove in order to retrofit the igniter leads to the original block connector and install the heat resistant padding included in the kit. The additional necessary hardware fit very nicely inside the oven. The stove's oven fired up without any problems and spared me the expense of purchasing a new oven. Thank you very much "Partselect".

I removed and replaced the igniter. I described these symptoms on the web site and it detailed that90% of the time by installing a new igniter it will fix the described problem. So I ordered the part and installed the part and everything worked OK. The only tool I had to use was a screw driver to remove three screws. It took about half an hour. If I had to do it again it would take about 15 minutes.

Unplugged oven. Removed door,racks,and bottom shelf. Removed screws from ignitor and unplugged it from connection. Installed new ignitor with screws and plugged in to connection. Tucked wires behind insulation as they were before. Installed previously mentioned items and turned on to check. Worked great and am very pleased with PartSelect and the assistance they offer.

Ordered oven Igniter kit PS1573892 which cost $73.00. Received the kit with instructions easy to follow to install. I was surprised how easy it was to repair, with the help of my wife we did the job in about 2 hours, the oven now works great. I really saved a bundle of money doing this myself, a local repair service wanted $114.00 for the same part and $200.00 labor to install and this is the gospel truth. I am 96 years old. RMA Bluefield, WV

Take off oven door, remove racks, lift out bottom plate of oven, remove deflector shield, unbolt old igniter gently fish out the wire and plug from the back of the oven. Unplug and replace with the new igniter. re-assemble oven.

Pulled up the old burner, disconnected the ignition wires, re-connected them to the new burner, replaced the new burner in the stove and presto - everything worked as it should.

Followed the directions on the video. Very easy to do.

I had to pull the range out from the wall and loosen the rear cover to free the connector for the sensor as it got stuck on a corner guide. Put the new sensor in, rear cover back on, range back in place and tested the oven. Oven heats fast now and keeps a more even temp. Makes me wonder how long I was trying to cook with a bad sensor.

Once I noticed the oven failed to light, I checked the igniter and saw it was glowing. At that point I did some research and found that the igniter could still be bad even though it glowed. This was the most common cause of ovens not lighting. A bad igniter will not glow as bright as a new one. An igniter had to draw a minimum of 2.8 amps in order for the safety valve to open and supply gas to the burner. After checking the safety valve with an ohmmeter, I found it to be good, so I ordered a new igniter. Once I received the new part , it took about 20 minutes to install.

My first suggestion, after turning off the power to the unit, is to take the oven door off. Two simple screws and it's off! It makes getting to the temperature sensor much easier. I also moved the oven out so I could get access to the back to remove the rear panel. The ordered part came with two pigtails, neither of which fit my oven wiring harness. I cut one of them and the wiring from the faulty sensor, spliced them together with wire nuts and made my own connection harness. The new sensor went in with little effort. The wiring went together flawlessly with the spliced connection protected between the oven cavity and rear panel. Reattached the rear panel and the oven door, then slid the oven back into place. Turned on the electricity and back to normal! Problem resolved!!

twist old burner and lift out disconnect two wires throw away gasket (if there is one left) connect two wires to new burner set in and twist till tight total time 45 seconds

Replaced stripped screws with 632 by 3/8 bolts and nuts. Your video helped with the rest of the installation.