CGR1425ADW Magic Chef Range - Instructions

First I removed the oven door for easier access then, removed the oven grates and bottom pan. Then there is a wing nut that holds the heat deflector in place over the manifold thats needs to be removed. Now you can see the igniter, remove the 2 small hex head screws and disconnect electrical connection.
Simply reverse the sequence to reinstall.
This may sound like alot to do but it only took 15 minutes to complete and I'm not an appliance repair person. Anyone who is somewhat of a handyman can accomplish this job.

Remove racks and pull out stove from wall. Remove back cover from stove. Unscrew and unplug sensor. Rethread new sensor wire through hole and plug in new sensor and rescrew plate that holds in place.

We had complications because of how the stove was installed, which delayed the "fix" time considerably.

Also installed ignitor. It was determined that both were bad. Gas would come on but not light. When oven would light, it would not re-light periodically to keep the temperature up, causing gas smell. This added time to repair of an additional 1 hour, and required removal of bottom drawer.

Turned gas and electricity off first. Pulled out the bottom pan so I could access the igniter. Removed two screws holding the igniter next to the burner tube, unplugged the igniter from the back of the stove and then pulled the plug threw into the oven. Mounted new igniter and then pulled the plug threw and plugged it back in. Reinstalled bottom pan and I was done in 15 - 20 minutes. VERY EASY TO DO...

My oven stopped working and the display read F3 error. I looked up the code and found that it was probably the thermostat sensor. I ordered the part from partselect.com and when it arrived I went to install it but I ran into a somewhat scary issue. I found that I had to pull my oven out of the wall in order to replace the sensor.

After a minor nervous breakdown, I decided to go for it and found that it was much easier than I had imagined. Changing the sensor involves taking out the two screws that hold the sensor in place (inside of the oven), pulling it out to the point you can reach the connector, plugging in the new sensor and screwing it back in place. However, if you have an oven like my model, you have to pull out the whole oven from the wall in order to reach the plug on the sensor. This sounds like a lot of trouble but for me it was very easy. The oven is held in place with screws around the front side. Most are easily accessed and you don't have to take out any critical/complicated pieces of the oven. My screw gun made short issue of the problem and I found that the oven was out of the wall within minutes. I could then easily unscrew a small back cover, change the sensor and then screw the oven back into the wall. Being very careful, the whole operation took about 20 minutes. I recommend that you get help from a friend just because the oven is bulky. It is not heavy, an average sized male can handle the weight but it’s easier with a friend. Also, be careful that the gas hose which feeds the oven is long enough (and not tangled) for you to move the oven out of its space. Obviously, be careful about gas leaks.

Step1: Remove oven door. Open oven door about 3-4 inches and pull up with 2 hands.

Step2: Turn oven light ON so you can see.

Step3: Remove bottom tray by pulling on the 2 rear clips and lift tray up and out of the oven.

Step4: Using a nut driver remove the 2 nuts holding the ignitor in place. If nuts are rusted from heat spray a tiny bit of WD-40 on them and totally wipe off any excess when finished removing the nuts.

Step5:Pull wire from old ignitor through the insulation and unplug it from its connection.

Step6: Plug in new ignitor and push it back through the insulation and fasten it back in position with the 2 nuts.

Step7: Re-install bottom tray and door and CONGRATULATIONS cause you just saved yourself about $150! by DIY And you never again will be eating semi-raw chicken or better yet, take the money you just saved and treat yourself and your family to a sushi dinner.

I would like to thank Partselect.com for their quick delivery and very reasonable price on the Ignitor I purchased.

Regards.

I simply twisted the defective burner off by hand in a counter clockwise direction. Then I removed the two electrical wires attached to the burner and simply connected the new one. Presto, like magic, the burner problem was fixed in approximately 3 minutes.

Pulled the oven away from wall to access rear of oven. Disconnect electric plug from duplex outlet, turn off gas supply ball valve. Removed two screws that retain sensor on inside of oven. Disconnected two prong sensor connector at rear of oven. Tied a length of string to sensor connector wires. Pulled old sensor out through front of oven. Use the string to tie onto new sensor connector wires and pull new sensor into place from rear of oven. Retain sensor with two screws. At back of oven, used connector jumper supplied with part package to make connection to existing connector.

Take a few screws off the back of the slide in burner module. Take off the back. Unscrew the ignitor screw, remove ignitor carefully, replace with the new ignitor, put the screw back in, put the back back on, try it out! Ours worked after a couple of tries - don't know if the ignitor had to "rev up" by several sparks or we just didn't have it properly installed at first. Anyway, very easy. Did it in my pajamas on a Saturday morning.

This repair is very easy. If you ever have to remove the range for any reason, for deep cleaning or otherwise, "PLEASE REMEMBER TO REMOVE THE 4 SCREWS located on the bottom of each burner! Don't do what I did! I tried to pop the range without removing the screws, & broke ALL ORIFICE TUBES! When doing this repair, shut the main gas off in the back of the oven. All you need to do is remove the 4 screws as I indicated earlier, using a Phillips screw driver, once this is done, twist off all 4 burners ("YES THEY TWIST OFF!")These twist off about 1/2 turn counter-clockwise, this will expose the electronic ignition wires connected to the ignitor electrodes, these wires are color coordinated, so remember to either write down how these wires came off, or if you are like me, just remember where they came off from, remove these "VERY CAREFULLY" as these are very delicate to remove, especially, if the ignitor electrodes are brittle or old, if they are in too bad a shape, REPLACE THEM! Once you have removed all wires connecting to the ignitor electrodes, set down the 4 burners, & the range is ready to be removed, using a flat, regular, screw driver or a small tire iron, insert the flat end into the bottom of the range, just above, where the top of the oven door is & the bottom of the range meets, the top of the oven door, the gap in-between is the spot, you want to pry, The range is held down with retainer clips, then, lift the range about half way up & remove the range. Taking a look inside, you will see the Orifice tubes & how they connect to the burner valves. Remove the two lines going to the burner valves with the use of a 1/2 wrench, or if you don't have one, a crescent wrench will do, once this is done, there is a wire restraint @ the top of the orifice assembly, please do not cut it, but turn the assembly upside down, & with your index finger & thumb, squeeze the restraint & it should pop off, then remove & replace the orifice tubes, when you are tightening the lines, only use hand-tight torque, do not over-tighten, as this will break the orifice tubes! The rest is putting the range on the oven, put the range back on the oven, reversing the procedure on taking it apart. When you put the range back on the retainer clips, you need to push down on the edge of where the clips latch in. This took me about 10-15 minutes to do. Good Luck!

I realized where the ignitor was and I turned off the circuit breaker took the v plate off with a little tie nut unscrewed the 2 small nuts and small plate to hold wires in and pulled the pig tail wire out and unplugged it and then took new one and installed it in reverse order done in 7 minutes thanks michael

The bottom burner would not stay lit. I determined that it was as a result of the ignitor's voltage droping. The thing still glowed red but apparently the voltage drops and closes the gas valve. So, I switched the broiler one with the bottom one to see if it would work. It did. Then I bought the new ignitor and put it in where I had taken the broiler ignitor out. You have to take care to put the insulation back and shove the connector well into the hole so that there is no possibllity of it melting. I also replaced the oven top. I had bought that part a couple of years ago because I had dropped some things on it and it was chipped. When I got the top I thought it would be somewhat intuitive as to how to replace it. But, it wasn't. So,it stayed in its box. When I had the other problem I decided to tackle the top too. First turn off the gas and unplug the oven. You have to pry the top off with a screw driver. Then, you disconnect wires which run to the ignitor for each burner. You also have to disconnect the gas lines running to each dial. Now, you take the top off. To get the burners off the top you have to take a pair of channel locks and open them wide, wrap a rag around the burner and turn them like screws. Under the top there is an assembly that holds the gas lines in place. that has to be removed from under each buner. These assemblies are not interchangeable!!! One is left and the other is right. You then reverse everything. Put the burners in by screwing them down. Its hard but if you put a rag over them you can strike them with a rubber mallet. Screw the gas line assemblies into the bottom of the top. Then hook up the wires and then the gas lines. Then, you pop the top back in. There are those pressure clamps that hold the top down. I made a mistake with the gas line assemblies and switched them. So, when I tested the repair I realized I had the front dial controlling the rear burners and vice versa. Some day I take it all apart and fix it again!

Look in the oven. On the upper left corner is the sensor. Remove two screws. Gently pull the wire and connector through the hole and insulation. Disconnect old sensor, replace new. Gently push the connection through, then finish pulling through from behind the stove. Replace the screws inside the oven. Done.

Replaced spark module but same problem persisted. Realized that the insulation on the spark ignitors were all cracked, causing a short.

Lesson learned: check the condition of the spark ignitors first as these have a tendency to crack. Even the smallest crack will cause a short.

Ordered new spark ignitors and plan to complete repair.

I learned that I could clean the window in the oven door. In taking it apart I saw that the gasket had fallen into the oven door. I found the part online, it arrived in three days. I removed the metal part of the door, removed what was left of the old gasket and put in the new one. Put the metal part of the door back on, and it was as good as new.

unscrewed old burner head ;disconnected 2 wires; repaced with new burner head and replaced wires. Unfortunately, before we really needed to replace the other burner heads, the cooktop itself developed a gas leak. We decided to replace the whole thing, and therefore would like to return the unboxed, unused 4 remaining burner heads.