CGC2536ADC Magic Chef Cooktop - Instructions

remove small panel on right side of stove,then un clip moduke and put wires from old module to new one.
Exact fit nomproblems.

Open top oven door and remove the 2 front screws which hold the burners and controls to the frame. DO NOT lift the burners more than an inch or so to look inside. You WILL bend the gas lines in the back if you do. Pull out stove from the wall, shut off gas supply and disconnect hose if needed to have room to work. Remove top back panel and remove the 3 wires connecting the top burner assembly and also remove the 2 gas lines. Now you will be able to remove the burner assembly safely. Flip it over and try to unscrew the screw holding the igniter. When you fail, drill it out and get a small metal screw to replace it. The metal is soft and the screw is hard, so drill carefully. The rest is easy, put in the new igniter and screw. and put it back together.

Having no manual nor finding any instructions online, I spent a while trying to figure out how to safely get to the ignitor mounting screw under the range top. I popped the snap clips on either side of the stove to loosen the top and pulled the top up a few inches to see why it was being difficult to raise. It turns out that the gas piping was solidly attached from the controls to the burners and I was slightly bending the tubes as the top was raised. The tubes have angles and curves to "accept" the bending pressure I was applying, so it looked like I was doing the right thing. In case I was not doing the right thing, however, I raised the top only enough to get access to the ignitor base and mounting screw. Then the fun began as the screw would not loosen. After several attempts using liquid wrench, tapping on it, etc., the screw head finally just broke off. Uh-ohhhh. Not to worry, however, as there was an empty mounting hole right next to the old one that appeared to be able to work. The mounting screw for the new ignitor was backordered, so I tried a couple dozen different screws I had in my toolkit and finally found one that would fit width-wise, but I had to nip off some of the length to get it to seat properly. The replacement ignitor also had a different width blade connector than the original so I had to grind away some of its width to reattach it to the lead wire. If I had a different sized blade receiver, I would have instead replaced the receiver on the end of the lead wire. It took about 90 minutes in all.

Replaced spark module but same problem persisted. Realized that the insulation on the spark ignitors were all cracked, causing a short.

Lesson learned: check the condition of the spark ignitors first as these have a tendency to crack. Even the smallest crack will cause a short.

Ordered new spark ignitors and plan to complete repair.

Remove burner covers (2 screws each)
Unplug hot and neutral leads (spade terminals).
Pull spark units off individual controls.
Attach new spark units to individual controls.
Cut end off hot lead (modification required as new lead came with round terminal instead of spade terminal).
Attach and crimp new spade terminal to hot wire then plug together.
Replace burner covers.
Test for function.
Repair complete.

I removed the unit from the countertop after turning off and disconnecting the gas. I removed the top panel of the range by removing the burner bases held in place with two torx screws each. Remove the knobs and the whole panel will lift off. After the panel is off the wire lead assembly will just pull off and unplug. The new one is a direct fit. Assemble with the reverse order of disassembly.

In cleaning range top with control knobs off, cleaner splashed onto the plastic sandwich containing wires, etc. "spark spark whoosh puff." Turned off electricity, removed sandwich which controled the burner which didn't light and discovered a cooked interior. Going to PartSelect, matched model number, drawing of part, click, order, wait one day. Each burner had to be removed with the star-flower screwdriver, range lid removed. The assembly was a connected set of five. Unsnap old, Insnap new. Easy, peasy. The difficult part was elevating the range tray with one knee to a level where the burners could be screwed back in. It works! New widow, I didn't need directions or physical assistance. Just make certain you have that special little screw driver to remove the burner.

Shut off gas supply
Pulled stove away from wall removed spark ignigtor box .
Installed new one .
No problem.
Good for another 10 years

Removed grill and set aside, then removed burner with a 1/4 counter clock twist. Removed ground wire and igniter wire from burner. Set to side in order taken off. Remove the two screws on the panel that is on the back of the unit and slide it up and set it aside. Removed screws from side decorative panels each side (one top and one bottom) and slide panel toward the rear to remove from notch slot. Then removed the two screws on each side and back to remove top of range. On the side there are two screws together towards the rear, the one towards the front of the range need to be removed. Then removed four screws that held the pan under the range top that were screwed into the gas line supports. Then removed the two screws from rear that held the pan in place. Remove the pan and set aside. Lift the right gas line burner support up. Remove ground bottom, hot wires upper and igniter wires from spark module. Pop module out and replace with new one. Reverse process to complete repair. Cause that the wires do not get under the pan when reinstalling same

Overall, it was painless and easy with zero problems

First I drilled out the screws on the burner as they were fused. I opened the stove top cover to access the underside of the burner. Removed the orifice holder, by disconnecting the gas line with a line Wrench and the electric cord.

The trick is to be careful with the gas line. Also when you go to replace the orifice holder you will notice that the holes are not threaded. The metal is soft and you're supposed to just screw the screws into the holes and let them bite into the metal. Then you reattach the gas on the electric and put the stove top back together.

Easy, removed from box, put in place on range. Happy customer. Good company to find exact replacement parts.

I never did receive the part. It was a knob. Part numberPS11744700. Must've got lost in the mail. Thanks. Thomas Horne, 266 Eedmont Ct., Rogersville,Tn 37857?............P.S. The cost of it cleared my bank.

A very simple repair.
I inserted the brackets and screwed them in position

replacement harness was an exact replacement except the connector for the supply side. the cook top had a female spade connector and the new harness had a female single pin connector. i had to replace the connector on the harness.