CFU2046ARW Maytag Freezer - Instructions

It was easy to take the door off by taking the two screws (located on the top of the freezer) off the top hinge and lift the door up off the bottom hinge. I took it outside and laid it on a table. Removed all the screws and took off the panel so I could remove the old gasket and clean the door and panel. The inside of the door was full of ice so we removed that and the insulation which I replaced. My wife then put the new gasket in the dryer on medium temp for about 5 minutes. We slipped the new gasket on the panel and lined it up on the door and screwed it back on the door. Then we put it back onto the freezer bottom first then replaced two screws on top hinge. Shut the door and use a blow dryer on the gasket with the door closed to make the gasket seal / conform to the door/freezer until there are no gaps between the gasket and the freezer. Note: Once the ice and water are out of the door the door doesn't weigh nearly as much as it did. Also

I took a chance and ordered a switch that is next to the top of the door. looked for how to remove it easily done in ten minutes works fine last long time.

****Make are you order Capacitor & Starter relay too (we ordered separtely so had to pay shipping twice)**** Super easy just open access panel on back near compressor and remove retention clip with fingers, remove & replace both capacitor & starter, put clip and access panel back on, plug in and allow 8 hours to cool! Works like new again! Hope it goes another 10 years

use kitchen knife to pry out. replaced switch assemble and pressed back into place. Could not have done this with out help from previous customers. Thanks

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

Ordered the leveling bolts, very fast shipping, parts correct as shown. Purchased a condo by the shore, frige had no levelers, they went in smoothly & was done in no time.
Steve

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Eased the putty knife under the edge of the switch housing and pried it off. Pulled two wires off the old terminals and hooked them onto the new one and reinstalled into the refrigerator body.

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now

We looked up the problem online with the model number of the refrigerator. We ordered the part and followed the video installation that was sent with the order and was found online prior to purchasing

After viewing a video by Parts Select, I pulled freezer from the wall to gain access to the back where the timer is located. I unplugged the freezer from the wall outlet. I then located the timer and used a screwdriver to turn the plastic screw on timer until it clicked once. I then waited a few minutes to see if heating elements would start working. When I heard water sizzling of the elements, I concluded the timer was bad. I then purchased a new timer from Parts Select and replaced it by removing the 2 screws holding it in place. I unplugged old timer and plugged in the new timer, reinstalling it onto the freezer. My 17 year old freezer is working like new again. Thank you Parts Select for everything.

Replaced the door gasket.

Loosen the two bolts for the door top hinge. Make them loose enough so you have room enough to lift the door off its bottom hinge. But befor you do that use a marker to trace around the top hinge location, makes it easy to set it back correctly.

Take the door and lay it down on the floor, I used a coffe table to allow for the door handle.

Remove all the screws holding the seal on. Note: it’s likely the bottom screws are rusty so get some replacements before doing this job.

Remove old seal and fit the replacement. I installed the four corner screws first to get the seal aligned.

Install ALL screws before tightening, this aids seal alignment with the holes in the door.

Refit door.

Unplug refrigerator.
Pry switch out with putty knife
Remove two wires from switch
Attach wires to new switch
Push new switch into slot

I had a son put in the new light bulbs. Rather simple