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Bought a new gas oven that did not come with a propane conversion kit.
I followed the simple instructions that were included in the kit. I started by replacing the 5 orifices on the top burners. The orifices are well labeled with numbers and colors. Next, I tightened the broiler burner orifice and the oven burner orifice with a 1/2 inch wrench. I had to tighten them pretty good to get the flame down where it is supposed to be. Then, I checked for leaks and I was then ready to cook.
I called a repair place. They charged $54 to diagnose, (said it needed a new latch motor) then wanted $220 to complete the repair. I checked online prices and did it myself for about 15 minutes work and the latch motor itself ($44?).
Was necessary to uplug the range, pull it away from the wall and remove the back panel sheet metal, then 3 screws that mount the motor. Replace motor, reattach sheet metal. Plug in. Done. Ready to bake cookies.
Oven light receptacle broken - bulb base broke off
Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.
I was selling my home and did not realize that the anti-tip bracket was not originally installed. A home inspection caught the problem and the buyers required that I install one. I could not find the original and obviously the installer never put it in place to begin with. The buyers wanted this resolved within a week so I had to act fast. I could not find one locally so I found what I needed on your website. It arrived in a couple of days and was easy to install. I used the template provided in the kit and drove the screws through the bracket into the wood plate behind the drywall. Pushed the range back in place and that's it. Couldn't get any easier.
took off back cover and unplugged old unit and installed new unit. oven probe was not the issue. probally control panel malfunction of readings. will continue using oven temperatue gauge inside to get settings for temperture as temp is important for baking.
First, remove the warming drawer. This allows access to the igniter's plug. Unplug the igniter. The rest of the job is performed within the oven. Remove the bottom (1/4 inch socket). Then remove the next, v shaped piece. The igniter is bolted to the aerator. Remove bolts, and it pulls right off. Reverse these to install new igniter.
oven would not heat up error code F10 showing on veiw screen
move the range out and unplug power supply, removing the back cover allows access to the probe, this can be done with screw driver or nut driver, loosen clamp that holds power cord in place and move backing out of the way, be careful sheet metal can be sharp, locate the probe unplug the connector and remove screw holding probe, pull old probe out install new probe, fasten down and plug in connector. attach backing and tighten clamp on power cord, plug in to power supply, turn on oven and give it several minutes for probe to work, it took only 20 minutes to replace the bad probe and the oven works like new hop this helps