Models > CEX630VW1 > Instructions

CEX630VW1 Roper Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for CEX630VW1 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the CEX630VW1
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Drip bowls were rusty and rotting through

  • Customer: Michael from Kings Park NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 459 of 458 people found this instruction helpful
I simply removed the elements and replaced the drip bowls with new ones. Put the elements back in and my stove looks %1000 better!

Just replaced ole drip bowls.

  • Customer: Roger from Osage Beach MO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 369 of 373 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged burners.....removed old bowls and replaced with new......plugged burners back in.

However, I do want you to know that I could not believe the promptness of your service and the courteous Customer Service person that assisted me with my problem in selecting the correct drip bowls. You are definitely a unique company!!!!

The drip bowls on my elderly mother's electric range needed to be replaced.

  • Customer: Frank from Derwood MD
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 81 of 146 people found this instruction helpful
Replacing the bowls was simple, simply removing the burner units and pulling out the bowls and inserting the new ones.

The ONLY reason I am answering this questionaire is to complement Partselect.com for their incredibly fast shipping of my parts after I placed the order. I received my order within 2-3 days with normal shipping. I expected to wait at least a week or longer. Thanks again Partselect.com for being there when I needed you the most!

Drip bowls was extremely dirty and burnt

  • Customer: Dr. Robbin from Philadelphia PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 69 of 132 people found this instruction helpful
So often we feel inclined to contact repairmen for simple jobs. This was easy because I ordered the part by looking on the side of the range. It arrived in less than a week. I simply snap the bowls inside the correct sockets and now my stove looks new. I definitely would use this service again.

Burner element broke and drip bowls needed to be replaced.

  • Customer: Laurie from Tequesta FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 68 of 133 people found this instruction helpful
I went to the local discount mart and bought drip bowls. The ones available at that store did not fit, so I decided to buy directly from the stove's manufacturer distributor.

The drip pans were simple to replace, as was the new burner element. My old one had broke and was still working, but I decided to replace it when I ordered the drip pans.

Everything was easy to install and it looks like a brand new new stove top! I saved a lot of money doing it myself.

8 inch burner wouldn't come on. Wires shorted out

  • Customer: Jonathan from Lilburn GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 34 of 41 people found this instruction helpful
One screw holds the block onto the stove top. Had to clean out fitting for phillips screwdriver or screw would have stripped because it was old with lots of buildup. Even cleaned out, this screw required great force with phillips screwdriver to keep from stripping. Caution! If you strip it, you'll have to drill it out! The rest was a snap. Cut the old wires leading to the old block (not too close to where wires disappear into back of stove, though!). Strip insulation off both wires and attach with the connectors that came in the kit. Then push the wires into the block, and finally, attach the block back to the stove top (new screw is supplied). Restore power and everything should be fine. One problem: Roper/Whirlpool built their appliance in such a way that when the connector block shorts out, it usually takes the infinite switch with it. So I ended up having to go back and purchase that switch as well (which just so happens to cost twice to three times as much!). If you put it all back together and it still doesn't work, that's probably what happened, so go ahead and remove the knob panel and check that switch (it's right behind the control knobs on the front). You will probably find a burned connector at the back top left or the switch. Don't forget to write down which wire goes where (or just take a picture of it).

Burner would not heat

  • Customer: Edward from Malvern AR
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 18 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
First i shut off the power since this is an electric cook top/range. I then removed the knob and the two screws that hold the burner switch in place. I removed the wires one at a time and connected each to the new switch. I then reattached the screws to the switch. The most difficult part to me was breaking off the switch stem at the right level. I got that done and finally selected the appropriate adapter for the stem/knob fit.

One burner didn't work all the time the other would go red hot

  • Customer: Phillip from Pekin IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I unplugged the stove from the outlet, then removed the two burners I was going to be working on and the drip pans. Then I raised the top part of the stove and removed the screws holding the plug-in blocks to the stove. Then I cut the two wires going to the old plug-in block and stripped the wires back to match the new wire parts. Then I placed the sleeves over the new wires, then I placed the new wire beside the wire I stripped on the stove and screw on the wire cap making sure it was tight. I repeated this three more times, once I had all four wires connected I then placed the sleeves over the connections and heated them up until they were formed around the connection. Once I had all the connections done I placed one wire at a time into the plug-in block until it locked into place ( I looked at my old plug-in blocks first to make sure I placed the new wires in the correct way ).I then used the metal mounting bracket that matched my old ones and snapped the correct one onto each plug-in block. Before mounting them onto the stove I compared them to my old ones to make sure they were correct. Then I used the new screws to mount them to the stove. I took a second look at everything I had done before closing the top cover of my stove. After lowering the cover back into place I put both the drip covers in place and then installed the burners.I then plugged the stove back into the outlet and tried the burners. This was very simple and the video on the web site shows this very well which made my job very simple.

Electric burner on stove would not work

  • Customer: Ronald from Fresno CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
The first thing I did was to turn the power off to the stove by turning the Stove circuit breaker off at the Main breaker panel. I next removed the 4 burners by pulling them out of their plug-in blocks. I then removed the four screws that held the top of the stove to the body so I could access the bad plug-in block, the screws were located under each of the burners drip pans. I next removed the screw holding the bad block. I lifted up the top of the stove so as to relocate the bad block, with wires connected, through the opening of the back burner. The bad block was located in the front rt part of the stove and by rerouting this to the back I could lay the top down and have easy access to what I needed to replace. I next used the knife to make a cut down the length of the old shrink tubing so as to gain access to the old splice. I next removed the old wire nuts which allowed the removal of the bad block. I then install the new clips into the new block. I installed one each shrink tubing onto each of the pigtails from the new clips and twisted the one new wire to the stove wiring harnes were the old wire was connected . I connected the seconded wire in the same manner. I pulled on each wire to verify that they were tightly secured together. I then positioned each shrink tubing over each wire nut (you have to fold the wire nut and wires down against the wire so as the shrink tubing will slip over the wire nut) and used a heating tool (hair dryer on high) to shrink the tubing around the wire nutted connection. I next installed the metal clip that would hold the block to the stove top. I placed the new block back to the location where the old block came from and secured it with the new screw provided by the kit. I re-installed the four screws to hold the top down, plugged in the four burners, turned the power on at the breaker box and turned the burner on to test that it work.

burner quite heating discovered switch was the problem

  • Customer: Ronald from McClelland IA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
lifted hood top unscrewed 4 small screws opening lid to switch housing took out 2 small screws that held the switch and then transfered wires to new switch replaced new switch with 2 new screws and back to working again walla! Time spent less than 30 minutes very simple as the instructions were very self explainatory.

1 had 2 large burners not working at all, and was cooking everything on the 2 smaller burners

  • Customer: Mary from Lebanon CT
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
It was so simple to repair - all I had to do was slide the older burners out and slide the new ones in - it took less than 10 min to complete the whole job! No tools used at all.

The switch had shorted

  • Customer: Stephen from COlleyville TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
I reviewed the schematic. Removed the outer casing. Pulled out the existing wires and replaced them exactly on the new switch. Snipped out off the control stem to match the others. There was a small metal piece on the old stem which holds on the knob. I removed it from the old stem and put it on the new stem and Eureka.

Electric burners where consistently intermittently working right. Sometimes they would work on High but not able to adjust to low heat. Sometimes they would just not want to come on at all. Occasionally there was a spark at the connection. If I jiggled the element just right it may or may not wo

  • Customer: JOAN from Pickford MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Thought we was going to have to replace the range all together, due to most parts not being available for this model anymore. Since this is an expensive model, we did not look forward to having to replace it. So I thought just by chance I would check to see if anyone had parts to help in repairing it. Part Select did happen to have the Surface Plug-in block kit that was needed. After going at least a year with this problem, I am sooooo happy to say it is finally fixed and working great! Thanks much Parts Select.

Sparks emitted at burner connection and burner does not work.

  • Customer: Doug from Puyallup WA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
1. Turn off circuit breaker, pull out element and remove reflector pan.
2. Unfasten terminal block mounting screw and remove terminal block from casing.
3. Cut wires as close to defective terminal block as possible (not as per instructions) since you will need the maximum possible length of wire.
4. Slip on heat shrink sleeves, strip stove wires and connect to new terminal block per instructions.
5. Heat shrink sleeves per instructions.

FRONT BURNER WOULD NOT HEAT

  • Customer: GAIL from ORCHARD PARK NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
I CUT THE POWER TO THE CIRCUIT. REMOVED THE BURNER AND THEN UNSCREWED THE OLD ALUMINUM PLATE ATTACHED TO THE RANGE TOP COVER. OPENED THE TOPCOVER TO ACCESS THE WIRES. I CUT THE TWO WIRES BEING SURE THAT I LEFT ENOUGH LENGTH. I THEN SLIPPED THE TWO NEW WIRES WITH THE BRASS CONTACTS INTO THE NEW BLACK PLASTIC HOLDER UNTIL IT LOCKED. REATTACHED THE NEW METAL PLATE TO THE RANGE COVER, FED THE WIRES THROUGH AND SNAPPED THE NEW PLASTIC HOLDER INTO THE ALUMINUM PLATE. SECURED WIRE ENDS WITH THE CERAMIC WIRE NUTS. TOTAL TIME ABOUT 30 MINUTES.
All Instructions for the CEX630VW1
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