CE8517W2 (PCE8517W2) Amana Dryer - Instructions

The first thing I did was to unplug the dryer from the wall. Then I removed the bottom two screws and slid the bottom cover off so i could see all the way to the back, I tipped the dryer back against the wall and searched for the problem with a flashlight. I noticed that one of the guide wheels that held the drum in place was sheared off. I took the new drum support roller out and carefully slid it over the shaft, I had to jiggle it around for a bit, but then it finally was seated correctly. I replaced the washer and then the clip using a pair of needle nose pliers and a regular screw driver and then turned the dryer by hand to see if the wheel came off. After confirming that it worked, I put the cover back on, and plugged it in and tested it.

Wasn't the belt!! Changed it anyway. Should have come here earlier. That mistake added several days to the repair waiting for a second batch of the right parts. Became a pro at taking the dryer apart and reassembling, though! Easy job, just take your time and mark your wires, if you need to.
Followed other people's excellent instructions. Clean out all the dust bunnies. Schematics were a great resource. Those and the prices made me a repeat customer.
The shaft of the Idler Lever wheel was the cause, but decided, since I had it apart, to spend a little more money and replace both Drum Support Rollers and the Roller Bracket and Shaft Assembly. They showed some wear, and the parts were very inexpensive. Make sure you have snap ring pliers with prongs that are smaller than the standard 0.40 to save some aggravation with the Drum Rollers. $5 tool. Total parts were less than $60. Probably saved $150+ in labor. Quieter than ever now. Thanks!

Remove front panel, lint basket, motor mounts,exhaust hood, front drum brackets. Then slip serpentine belt around drum, pressure w/ tension idler pulley and slip around drive motor spindle. Replace all parts in reverse order (a two person job).
Vacuumed inside of dryer (full of lint.)

First I read all of the other stories about this problem so I would have the correct parts. At $6 a roller, decided to get all 3 & a belt. Pulled the lower panel off (2 bolts), then the door (2 bolts). Marked the door switch wires. Took 2 bolts out of the top & tilted it back. I found this the easiest way to access the drum. Mark 2 wires before disconnecting them from the top. All bolts are 5/16". Removed the plastic piece that connects the lint trap to the blower (3 screws). Have to access these from inside the drum. Removed the belt, then the drum. The bad roller was the belt tension roller. Can't get to the snap ring from the front of the dryer for this roller. The 2 rollers in the back you can get to without removing the drum completely. Very easy to replace all rollers with the drum out. Also very easy to re-assemble. Buy or borrow a good set of snap ring pliers. Make sure you diagram the proper belt route if you don't have a picture. I printed a picture off this web site. Have someone hold the drum up so you can get the belt on, otherwise the entire repair is a 1 person job. Went back together in about 10 minutes. Total cost $40.00 parts & shipping.

Pulled off the lower panel with 5/16 socket.Pulled off the door assembly by removing the two screws at the bottom of the door assembly. I pulled down a little and then out. be carefull of the wires. Other posts said to remove. The wires were long enough I did not have to remove them. I just leaned it against the wall. I then removed the 4 screws that hold the front piece in.pulled it off replaced brackets , installed self adhesive felt(stuck good) and then glides. Mine were thin but not the problem. I then reached under the drum and released the belt from the tensioner. I then pulled the whole drum out.This is the time to vacum out good. I could get to the rear rollers very easy. The left roller was shot and the shaft half wore into(the problem). I pulled off the two screws holding the roller support. Normally You have to remove the wheel with snap ring pliers first to remove the support. In this case snap ring long gone. Replaced support shaft, installed thrust washers and roller with grease for both sides. The right support shaft was still good. Removed tensioner pulley and inspected. It was just as good as the new one. Cleaned and greased and reinstalled. Put new belt on the tub and slid it back in. Be carefull to get the belt on the proper side of the tensioner. I then installed the front supprt in place to support the tub with the 4 screws. Spun the tub(felt good) then reached under and reinstalled belt to motor and tensioner. Spun again to check for belt alignment. (Check) Reinstalled door an lower panel. Test Quiet Sounds like new. Very easy! I hope this helps someone just as the other post has helped me. Blessings to all.

First I turned off the gas supply line. Then unplug the dryer. Remove bottom front cover by removing the 2 screws (1 at each side) at the bottom. Next remove the 2 screws (1 at each side) located at bottom of front door panel. Pull front panel away from dryer and pull down slightly. This will disconnect the entire front panel(with door) from dryer. Carefull because there is a switch located at the top right corner of the panel on the inside. This will not allow you to remove the door yet. On some scratch paper, sketch the switch and correct color wire positions. Remove wires at connections. Pull the drum toward front dryer carefully. This dislodges it from the back of the dryer. No need to remove it from dryer. This way the belt still remains in place. From inside drum, use a pair of snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring from the support roller shaft located on left side of drum, below where the drum was sitting prior to pulling it forward to dislodge it from inside rear of dryer.
Remove old wheel , place some grease on inside of new support roller and some on the shaft. Install new roller and replace snap ring. Slide drum back in place inside the dryer at the rear. Hand rotate the drum to ensure it is properly installed. Reconnect the switch wires to the front panel. Slide panel up into place so that the clips (at top of panel) lock into place(square holes in top cover plate of dryer). Have the door open when doing this because you have to seat the front of the drum into the front cover. Reinstall the 2 screws. Test spin the drum again by hand. If it feels right, it's correctly seated.
Reinstall bottom front cover. While everything is apart, you may want to use a vacuum cleaner to clean the inside of your dryer. Perfect time to do this. Plug dryer back in and open gas supply line. Test the dryer. Should be nice and quiet again.
This fix is for the left side support roller only. There is a support roller on the right side also. In my case I only needed to fix the left side support roller. The inner diameter of the roller was badly worn and needed to be replaced. You may want to purchase the support roller shaft at the same time. I didn't and will need to do this repair again. I only purchased the support roller and when I removed it, I noticed the shaft is badly worn also. In my case, temporary fix until the shaft is ordered and then I'll do this again.

FIRST unplug dryer from electrical source, CAUTION, the top of this dryer does not open with clips, do not pry on top to open! On the front of the dryer look under the lower panel, and find two screws, one on the left side, and one on the right, remove these screws, and pull slightly down on panel to remove. Behind this panel find two screws holding the door panel, one on the left, and one on the right, remove the left, and support the door panel while removing the right side. Gently pull the bottom of door panel outward, and the clips on top of door panel will unhinge from top, carefully rotate left side of door panel to floor, and note the wire connections on switch, and orientation of switch, then unplug wires, and move door panel to a comfortable working positon. Door must be open to remove switch, then depress the two plastic retaining keepers on each side of switch, and push switch through toward door. Replace with new switch, reconnect the wires, and reassymble in reverse order. Remember, door assymbly must be inserted in dryer top at an angle, and then bottom rotated downward, and bottom panel nylon guildes inserted into door panel bottom.

The door had always opened with the wrong swing and it wasn't til I needed to repair this that I noticed you could change the swing. I changed the swing of the door and then noticed that the clip was included on both sides so i did not need to repair the catch. I still have the part so when it breaks again, I can just pop it in.

I removed the covers, released the belt, pulled the drum, replaced rollers, glides, idler pulley and motor. The motor was the main issue but I replaced the rollers, idler and glides while I was in there. My biggest challenge was the clips that hold the motor in place. The hooked over a metal ear. I was able to use a big strait slot with downward pressure to release and reinstall.

The illustratations on the web site made ordering the correct part easy and the part fit perfectly so this repair job could have been accomplshed by anyone with very basic mechanical understanding.

Thank you

This was much easier than I expected. I pulled the front covers, released the belt (just move tentioner pulley with fingers to release belt), removed the drum to access the motor. The motor was easy to remove. I loosened then nut in the fan assy using my channel locks (because I did not have a socket that big and then removed the wire harness clip to prepare the motor for removal. The two mounting clips were the tricky part as the fit over a metal ear on each side locked by the spring tension of the clips. It looks like a special tool my be available but I simply used my big straitslot and heavy downward pressure to remove and install. This repair can be completed by anyone with very basic mechanical skills and impress the spouse.

First unplugged unit .2nd took off front cover and removed bottom screws and that allows it to open up and lean back.3rd pryed the motor lock down springs by applying pressure down and out . forth used vise grips to hold motor shaft, while using the 7/8 socket to loosen the blower fan.Last go through steps to put back together.

Unplug the power cord from the unit. Remove the lower front panel; then the upper front panel including the door (unplug wire to door switch). Then remove the cover on the fan housing. Need to block the motor from turning; I used a stick to jamb the front of the motor; then unscrew the old blower fan and screw on the new one. Then replace the cover and put front panels back on.

To make working on the dryer easier we tipped the dryer back, about 45 degrees, removed the bottom panel, the door panel, note: make sure to mark the inside chassis or case with a sharpie where the wires go by color, etc… note: this makes it easy to place every thing back in order. I removed three screws on the bottom left side, to allow the more room for me to remove the drum. You can not remove the drum just yet but until the rubber belt is removed. I went below where the tension wheel is… it’s back behind the motor… incidental the tension wheel and the arm was the problem, it had warn to one side. Now release the rubber belt around drum. I pulled the drum out. The motor assembly is all one piece so it’s easy to remove. Don’t forget to unplug the plastic Molex plug and mark where you wires go. Two screws in front on the motor assemble and the whole assemble comes out. From here I could do a good job of cleaning the motor assemble and replacing the parts without any difficulty. Re-assembly was really easy, just one issue with placing the rubber belt took some time, and I need some help. I was finished in less than two hours. Bingo fixed!!

Unplugged dryer, turned off gas, raised front of dryer with two 2X4's on edge resting on legs, removed two lower panel screws, removed lower panel. Removed lower blower & filter assembly, screws (3) are on the inside of drum. (Good chance to clean it out) Removed two lower front upper main panel screws. Supported top panel with wood for access. Removed panel slowly, marked wires that go to door switch, set panel aside. Removed tension on belt by reaching in on the right lower side and unhooking the tensioner from belt, look to see how it is installed, for reinstallation on assembly. Pulled drum out slowly as not to damage seals on drum. replaced parts, attached with self tapping screws.(screws all the same size) reassembly in reverse order. Will need to put belt on drum before installing drum. Check drum alignment with rollers and seals. Used very small amount of high pressure grease on roller bracket and shaft assembly where the support roller shaft spins for lubrication. All's quiet. (Vacuumed out inside while dissassembled)

Removed top, remove front panel, removed drum assembly brace, removed drum and belt . The belt and rotor were shot. I replaced both drum support rollers since i was there. Then replaced the motor and Idler lever and pulley, the put the belt on and put everything back. This unit will last a while longer and the grand total including next day air 175.00. I tried to just by the motor locally but for 242.00 I got every thing listed above.
Thanks