CDE820 Maytag Range - Instructions

removed front of range door. removed old seal and replaced with new seal. clean and reassemble range door. repair very simple and fast.

I pulled the old one out and installed the new one. Never broke a sweat.

Took out of package and plugged in. turned on. It took 5 minutes.

I had to remove the clip attached to the edge of the pan holding the wires so I can push the top down more for the holes to line up. The thickness of the clip prevented the holes to line up.

Left door attached to range. Took out all screws on door to get to the door seal. Cleaned parts as I went. Took out old seal and laid new seal in. Had to get two more hands to hold the parts and glass together while screwing it back together. Only hard part was remembering which screws went where. Looks and works like new. So glad I did it, as it has needed it for a long time. Easy even for a 70 year old female. PartSelect had the best price even with shipping. Thanks

I lifted the grill off; took the old grease filter out and threw it away; placed the new filter in the well; put the grill back on. Wallah!!! just like new.

Was easy cut the wires of as told to do wire nut the ends together and put back together and tested and worked great. Done

Removed glass and then two screws to remove metal plate pulled out socket,disconnected two wires and installed new socket.

opened the door; put 12 penny nails in each hinge through the holes for it, removed screws above hinges; slid door off; laid it on a towel on the workbench; removed side/top/bottom screws and laid the outer door aside. removed the screws from the inside of the door, laid the inside glass aside, removed the glass assembly (broken), cleaned the loose glass out, laid the new glass assembly in place, replaced the panels and screws and slid the door on the hinges, removed the nails and closed the door. 35 minutes. Never did it before4. Part fit great! Thanks to partselect for having the discontinued part!

The repair was straight forward. Remove about a million screws and several layers. The only challenge was loosening some baked on screws in the innermost layer. Repair would have been less than an hour if not for those screws. Key advice is to pay attention to the order that each layer went back on. My oven/stove is about 25 years old, but works great. The part was backordered at a local appliance part store from May to ???. I ordered it at PartSelect and it was also backordered for a couple of months. I got it delivered to my home from PartSelect before it ever came in from the local store.

Opened oven door. Inserted a small bent nail into the small holes on the hinge. This locks the hinge from closing all the way. Removed the chrome hinge retaining plates. One at each hinge. Lifted the door off the oven. Laid door on towel. Removed 3 screws from the top of door, three screws from the bottom of door. This allows you to separate the two pieces of the door. Clean all glass surfaces, including the ones under the middle glass panel. Removed 1 screw from each hinge at bottom of door. Pull hinge from bottom of door after removing screws. Insert new spring at top of door first, replace retaining screw. Realign the two door parts and replace all screws. Set door back on hinge pocket. Be careful to insure that the hinge seats into the pocket. Open door just enough to replace retaining plates. Process was easy, but it did not fix the problem completely. Bought heavy magnets from hardware store and installed them inside the door. This with the new hinge fixed the problem.

throw the old one in the garbage, drop in the new one. It is about 3/4" narrower than the one that came with the stove but still covers the down vent adequately

I simply watched the video on the PartSelect site. That made the repair easy and fast. It took perhaps 5 minutes to bring the stove back to life again.

Loosen two screws to remove door. Removed outside trim and other outside screws hold center panel in place. Removed one screw holding hinge in place. Screwed new hinge in place. Re-attached center panel to outside trim and hung door. Easy enough.

Used a multimeter to determine that power was going to the surface burner infinite switch. Then determined that power was not going from the output side of the switch to the burner element. Turned power to range off at the breaker box. Removed eight screws total on range top, four on the cartridge side, two located on back of control plate where the downdraft vent is located and two on the double fixed burner side. Raised the range top to gain access to the infinite switch assemblies. Removed to torx head screws retaining the infinite switch and then disconnected the five wires on the bottom one at a time, making sure to replace in the exact location on the new switch. Installed torx screws in the new switch and installed all screws back into range top. Reinstalled cartridge and burners and turned power back on. Tested rear burner and all functioned properly.