Models > CCE3450W > Instructions

CCE3450W Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

All installation instructions for CCE3450W parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the cooktop repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the CCE3450W
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Burner had one temperature--hot, regardless of setting

  • Customer: James H from Oxford NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 49 of 55 people found this instruction helpful
1. Killed power and removed the regulator's knob, noted the position of the old control.
2. Took off the cover for the center vent and loosened the two screw holding the housing in place--the screws didn't have to come out completely as it is a U-shaped friction hold.
3. Unscrewed the two screws holding the old control switch in place--lifted the housing enough to get at the old switch and carefully pulled it loose--it was a front burner so the control switch was about as far back as it could be but still wasn't that hard to get at.
4. Turned the new switch to orient the wire connectors, then, using a needle-nose pliers, removed each friction connector, one at a time, and fitted them on the new switch (note: one of the wires fitted best if it went under as opposed to around the base of the new switch).
5. Replaced the control back through the housing and screwed it in place, making sure the orientation of the control matched the way it looked originally.
6. Slide the housing back over the two screws and tightened, replace vent.
7. Replaced the knob and turned on the power.

(The above took me about twice as long to write as it did to make the repair and I write professionally but am not a professional electrician.)

Also, I bought a second control switch because, given the age of the unit, I'm sure another one will go. The second one will assure that it won't happen :-).

Burner Control not Functioning

  • Customer: Randall from Mohnton PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 18 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
Simple Repair!
Turn off Power
Remove four screws under panel.
Remove old burner knob.
Drop Burner Panel from range
Remove 5 wire connectors from old burner control
with pliers
Remove 2 screws that held burner control to range
panel
Install new burner control
Rplace two screws to burner control
Replace 5 wire connectors to new burner control
Replace 4 screw under panel
Replace knob to new burner control
Turn on electricity
Made wife happy!

replaced heating element on flat surface stove top

  • Customer: dennis from assonet MA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 18 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
I removed 4 screws and then lifted up the top it gave me access to the element I followed the direction that came with the element (very clear to follow) removed and installed the new element and it worked fine. Remember to unplug the stove if it is electric this is not in the instructions.

Dual element burner only stays on high

  • Customer: Sherman from Perry GA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
The replacement switch was not exactly as my original and none of the other instructions matched exactly with my unit. So I had to figure it out, but they matched mostly what Micheal from Colliervile wrote. Safety is paramount. Turn off circuit breaker and ensure there is no power to unit with a test light. You don't have to remove the glass top. Open oven door and remove 4 screws at bottom of control panel, then remove two screws on each end while suppoting the panel with one hand. Rest control panel on top of door or hang by wires. Remove two screws to detach switch from panel. I took pictures of the wire placement on old switch and drew a diagram of what color wire went to each terminal. I used the instruction sheet diagram of new switch and marked where each wire color goes. Here is where I put them: DOUBLE BLACK to L1,2; New jumper from P1 to S1; RED to 2: DOUBLE RED to P2; new jumper with small connector from S2 to "element on" indicator lamp (it's longer than and replaces existing jumper); YELLOW to 4a; TAN to 4. The letters in parenthesis on the instruction sheet almost matched up to my old switch so I used them to help with the placement. I didn't have to seperate any compound red wires. Double check wire placement and put it all back together in reverse order.

We had no control of tempurature on one of the four burners on the electric range cook top

  • Customer: Robert from Marietta GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
First step is turn the power to the range off. Then I removed the grate covering the down draft vent in the center of the cook top. Inside the vent opening are two screws that secure a panel that holds the four knobs that control temperature settings. Remove these screws. Slide the panel tward the back of the range while lifting it up. This will allow removal of the panel. Remove the knob from the burner control you are replacing. Under the knob are two screws. Remove the screws and let the controller drop out of the cover panel. Take the new switch and carefully remove the wires from the old controller and place them on the new controller in the same position. When the wires have been connected, put the controller back in the control panes and secure it with the two screws. Replace the panel back into the cook top. Tilt the control panel so the front is low and the back is elevted. Engage the lugs protuding out on each side of the control panel opening. Lower the panel back into the opening and secure it with the two remaining screws. Replace the control knob and you are done. You just saved yourself a $125.00 service call. Total cost for the controller $35.00.

SMALL ELEMENT ON COUNTER TOP RANGE NOT HEATING.

  • Customer: Brian E from Waldorf MD
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
1. TURNED OFF POWER TO TROUBLE SHOOT THE COUNTER TOP RANGE ELEMENTS.
2.RAISED THE COUNTER TOP UP TO WORK ON IT AND SLID TWO EVENLY PLACED WOODEN SLATS UNDER THE BOTTOM OF THE HOUSFOR STABILITY SO IT WOULD NOT FALL BACKDOWN INTO THE COUNTER TOP CUT-OUT.
3. WITH A 1/4" NUT DRIVER REMOVED THE 10 HEX-HEAD SCREW THAT WERE HOLDING THE BLACK GLASS TOP IN PLACE, PULLED OFF THE 4 .CONTROL KNOBS AND CAREFULLY REMOVED THE GLASS COVER AND CAREFULLY SEET IT ASIDE IN A SAFE PLACE.
5. A VISUAL INSPECTION OF THE NON WORKING ELEMENT SHOWED THAT IT HAD A BURN OUT SPOT CAUSING IT NOT TO HEAT.
6. GOT THE MODEL NUMBER OF THE APPLIANCE AND CHECKED THE INTERNET FOR PARTS SUPPLIERS, CHOSE PARTS ELECT BECAUSE THEY HAD THE PART IN STOCK AND COULD OVERNIGHT IT FOR REINSTALLATION THE NEXT DAY, PART DID ARRIVE THE NEXT MORNING. A VISUAL INSPECTION SHOW THAT IT WAS THE CORRECT PART AND IT WOULD BE A LIKE FOR LIKE SWAP OUT.
7. PRIOR TO REPLACING THE ELEMENT CHECK TO SEE THAT THE ELECTRICAL POWER WAS STILL OFF AT THE CIRCUIT BREAKER, MADE A QUICK SKETCH OF THE WIRING AND IDENTIFIED THE WIRES SO THAT THEY WOULD BE RETERMINATED AT THE SAME POINTS.
8.USING THE NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS PULLED OFF THE 4 STAKE ON TERMINATIONS.
9. LIFTED OUT THE 6" FROM THE BODY OF THE UNIT , REMOVED THE 4 PHILLIPS SCREWS HOLDING PARTS WHAT WERE TO BE TRANSFERED ONTO THE NEW ELEMENT.
10. TRANSFERED PARTS ONTO THE NEW ELEMENT, REINSTALLED THE ELEMENT INTO THE BODY OF THE UNIT, REINSTALLED THE 4-STAKE-ON WIRES TO THERE APPROPRIATE TERMINALS AND VERIFIED WITH PREVIOUS WIRING SKETCH.
11. REINSTALLED THE GLASS TOP, 10 SCREW HOLDING IT IN PLACE AND THE 4-CONTROL KNOBS.
12 .TURNED MAIN POWER TO THE UNIT BACK ON AND TURNED ON THE REPLACED ELEMENT, IT WORK CORRECTLY, ALSO CHECKED THE OTHER 3 ELEMENTS TO MAKE SURE THAT THEY WERE WORKING CORRECTLY.
13. WHEN THE UNIT HAD COOLED, REMOVED THE WOODEN SLATS AND LOWERED THE COUNTER TOP BACK INTO ITS CUT-OUT MAKING SURE NOT TO DAMAGE THE GLASSTOP.
JOB COMPLETE.

the left front burner burned out & none of the lights to show if a burner was hot would come on.

  • Customer: Richard from Fair oaks Ranch TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
FIrst we found the power source ( this took us awhile) and cut the power at the fuse box. then we unplugged the cooktop and started to take out screws. It turned out the screw removal had nothing to do with the stove top coming out. We took the taping knife & pried it under a corner and lifted. the cook top was just sitting on the counter.
The hardest part of the whole job was holding the cook top because we did not disconnect the downdraft fan other than to pull the tape off the vent & fan. Now we could undo the rachet screws that held the glass top to the cook top & remove it.
Theburner was simply a matter of pulling connections loose & placing them on to the new one. The clips that hold the burner in place were removed w/ a screwdriver & replaced on to the new burner. Watch for the numbers on the burner underside to know where to reattache the clips. the unit that lights up to show that a burner is hot would not come off, but we managed to remove
the plastic part even though the clip screw would not loosen, and since it only had to float near by we used the unused wire included in the new part to hold it in place. Putting the unit back together was not too hard, but it took us a little while to get it all lined up. Be carefull of what ever you work on, the downdraft fan scratched up the counter top that we were working on. we started with cardboard under it & should have continued, we did not want to try & remove the fan. Then we put it back in the counter opening & plugged everything back in & to our amazement ( we are not handy people) it worked! the lights that had refused to work when one unit was burned out now worked on all four units. thank you partselect, we were able to do the repair with what you sent.

Microwave would not heat food. All other functionality was working as expected

  • Customer: James from Staten Island NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
I disconnected the power. Took off the front panel that was held together by two screws. Reviewed the schematic that was inside. Located the switches, saw which lead was burnt. Unscrewed the two screws that held the switch in place, cleaned the connector, and put the switch in and connectors back. Powered the device, tested for cooking/heating functionality. It worked, Closed the front panel

Overheating burner

  • Customer: Bertram from San Clemente CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Finding part needed and quick shipping were great. Web site so helpful. Initial attempt to remove old part was troublesome because I took out wrong screws thinking I had to remove parts beneath burner. Once I figured it out, it was so easy.
1. Turn off power.
2. Remove 4 screws BELOW control panel (open oven door to see them)
3. Pull off 7 front knobs.
4. Lift out loosened panel.
5. Take out the two screws holding control switch to front panel. Note orientaion of switch.
6. Replace wire by wire to new switch.
7. Put it all back together. Make sure switch is put in same direction.
8. Turn power on.

burner would only get super hot. could not control temp.

  • Customer: Thomas from Exeter NH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
removed 4 screws holding burner controls. removed wires off old and placed on new burner control. very pleased with quick shippig of part. two days and range was as good as new. excellent company to buy from

Burner switch on stove top burned out

  • Customer: Tom from Lenexa KS
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
First I turned off the circuit breaker at the control panel to my Jenn-Air stove-top. At 220-volts, don't take any chances with electricity!

Then I removed two screws that hold the burner switch panel in place and lifted up the panel to expose the wires that are connected to all 4 of the burner switches, the exhaust fan and pilot lights that indicate if a burner is turned on.

I used a circuit tester to determine that the power was indeed off to the switches. Again, it is extremely important to respect 220-volts of electricity.

I ensured that all of the wires were already labeled the same as the terminal connections on the switch (i.e. H-1, H-2, P, etc.). If they are not, label them yourself with masking tape around each wire. Then I removed each of the wires connected to the burned out switch with a pair of needle-nose pliers.

Next I removed the two screws attaching the burner switch to the panel.

To install the new switch, repeat all of these directions in reverse, making sure to attach each labeled wire to the correct terminal on the burner switch.

Turn the circuit back on at the circuit breaker. Then test the burner switch and see if the burner heats up. Hopefully, you'll be cooking in no time...............

burner would not get hot, switch did not feel right

  • Customer: Richard from Howell NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
It would have been nice if basic instructions were supplied ( eg. how to remove switch panel ) but it went rather smoothly.
First killed power the electric stove.
I then removed the screws from the bottom of the panel and then pried the top of the control panel down and then out. I copied the positioning and wire colors.Removed wires from prongs, removed the two screws, replaced old switch with new one .

broken switch

  • Customer: Al from Monroe Twp NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Took the (6) screws holding the top of the stove out, then removed the switch screws(2). Then lifted the top, so as I could reach and get at the switch. And then I repeated the above. It was alot easier the second time. Duh I erred the first time and replaced the wrong one and before I relized it, I opened the switch to check out. All in all. I still got satisfaction from doing it myself. Thanks Parts Select

Left front burner went out.

  • Customer: Donald from North Highlands CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Removed 8 screws of retainer holding glass top to box.. Pulled 5 knobs and glass top and set aside. Popped 2 retaining clips holding burner , removed them and transferred to new burner (#12 and #48 position). Used wide blade screwdriver to facilitate removing terminals from old burner and attached terminals to new burner.Popped retaining clips into crossbeam, put glass top on and 8 screws back into retainer. Works great.

Burner got excessively hotand couldn't be regulated

  • Customer: Vernon from Wells ME
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
The hardest part was breaking the caulk seal between the range and the cabinet. An extra set of hands made the job easier, by holding the panel while I connected the switch. The switch was delivered promptly and I am very happy with Parts Select. I found the other repair stories very helpful.
All Instructions for the CCE3450W
1-15 of 62