CBR1415AGS Maytag Range - Instructions

I lifted up the bottom insert of the inside of my oven and then followed the instructions on this site. Originally I purchased the wrong igniter, so I would encourage you to look at yours and make sure you are buying the right part. I am a complete novice. Even with my purchase debacle, my oven was back up and running within 5 days (total cost was $60). Do this even if you are scared of a screwdriver. Just remember to turn off the gas first. Make sure you've turned off the gas by trying to light a burner (if your burners are otherwise working correctly). If it doesn't light, the gas is off and there is nothing to be afraid of. The igniter is far enough away from the gas pipe that I wasn't afraid of breaking it and once I saw how the oven was put together, I wasn't afraid of working on it. And, if you need to return anything, the return policy is awesome.

This oven is part of a stand-alone gas (propane) stove. It was purchased and installed in July, 2005. The igniter I ordered from PartSelect arrived as promised. But the connecter on the new igniter did not match the connecter on the old one. I had to either find an igniter with a compatible connecter or splice the old connecter to the new igniter; I chose to splice. Now, I'm not a real handyman, and I'm especially skittish around electricity. But I found two wire connecters (plastic tube-like things with metal interiors). I stripped about a 1/4-inch from all four wires and inserted them into the wire connecters, making sure the igniter was properly placed so the screw holes lined up. Then I used the crimper tool to crimp the wires together. I did a pull test to make sure the wires were secure, replace the now connected wires in their proper place and turned the oven on. It worked! On this particular stove, you'll need a screwdriver to remove the vent cover, exposing the igniter wires. Due to the gas connection in the back of the stove, you can only pull the stove out so far. So, there's not a lot of room to work in the back of this stove; that's why it took a lot longer to complete this job than the wiring inself. I'd say no more than fifteen minutes. Of course, if all the parts are compatible, even less. Good luck!

Broke the same day I installed it

I had to use a dremel to grind the heads off the rusted in screws that hold the burners to the stove top then drill out the screws and use larger sheet metal screws to reassemble. Don't lift the stove top much with the burners attached or you'll bend the gas lines. Two screws inside the top oven hold the top down. Without the rusted screws it would be an easy job.

Removing the oven door by partly opening it and pulling it up out of the hinge made access to the igniter much easier. Access to the igniter was easy. Just remove the baking shelves and lift out the bottom panel. I removed the two screws holding the old igniter. One screw was difficult to remove because of oxidation, and required some tinkering as the threads were stripped. But once the screws were removed, the igniter was easy to replace and connect to the gas controller with a simple plugin connection.

took oven door off, took oven racks out, removed heat sheild, took 2 nuts off ignitor, removed ignitor, gently pulled ignitor wire out from back of oven, unclipped wire, clipped new ignitor to wire harness, replaced nuts to install new ignitor, replaced heat shield. replaced oven racks, replaced oven door, tested to make sure oven lite, took about 10 minutes!!

I replaced the igniter.

Unplugged the oven from electricity. Took off the bottom(Floor) of the inside of the oven. Checked that the new part looked the same as the old. It did. Then I checked the back of the oven, had to take off a cover, and the connector in the back was not the same. I did not that it had the same two wires so rather than send it back, I figured I could make it work. I started to take off the old piece by unscrewing the two screws. They were a bit rusted, one came off the other I had to hacksaw and twist off. I cut the old connecting end off of the old part and the end off of the new part stripped the cover off the ends of the wires, and put the old end to the new part, having also put the old wire covers over the new wires. then twisted the end together and wrapped the in electrical tape. I had to take the piece that held the new part out of the oven the tried to use the one semi-good old screw, then some newer screws, then finally used some new nuts and bolts to connect the part tightly. put everything back together and it worked.

Got the part, changed it, works great. That's all

Remove two phillips screws, lift the burner head up and remove the wire from the electrode. DO NOT DROP THE WIRE!!! It will fall into the stove top, adding much more time and frustration to this very simple repair. Reverse these steps to complete the repair.

opened the oven door, remove racks, remove lower drawer, unscrew protective panel on lower part, take out the bottom plate, unclip the old igniter, clip in new igniter, put everything back together and you are done!

The igniters burn out periodically, light bulbs, and have to be replaced. There are two of them, one for the oven and one for the broiler. To get access to the one for the oven, I removed the shelves and the floor of the oven. It lifts out. Two screws hold the igniter to a mounting bracket by the burner. The wires on the igniter pass through a hole in the back of the oven. There was not be enough slack in the wire to get the connector through the hole, so I had to get acess to it from below. I removed the storage drawer from the range. At the back, behind the drawer is a panel that's held on by two screws. I removed the panel and disconnected the igniter wires. I fed the new igniter wire through the hole in the oven and connected it. Then I replaced the panel and the drawer, screwed the igniter in place and replaced the floor of the oven.

1)Completely removed racks, oven bottom and broiler drawer to access unit. 2)Shut off gas supply by by pulling horizontal lever on left side of safety valve forward to close valve. 3)With screwdriver, removed heat shield covering safety valve and connector from igniter. 4)With socket wrench, removed the two mounting screws on igniter. 5)Installed new igniter, connecting to safety valve. 6)Turned on gas supply by pushing horizontal lever to left of safety valve back to open valve (see step 2). Turned on oven to test. 7)Upon gas igniting, shut off oven and install oven components in reverse order.

Hello,

Your website and prediction that this replacement part was the problem were exactly correct. This part was easy to remove and replace, it is the starter for the oven so it comes with a heating element and a built in connector. I simply pulled the old wires up, unhooked the connector and removed the two mounting screws. Plugged in the new part, pushed the connector back down past the insulation, re-installed the screws and turned the oven on and poof, it started up again. We have also noticed that the oven stays hotter now, just like it did when we bought it.

Thank you very much for the advice and for supplying the correct part. A $65 part is much better than having to buy a $500 new stove/oven. We are very happy we found you and will use you again should some other appliance break down.

Sincerely,
Jim Arao
Seaside, CA 93955

Replaced igniter, removed inside bottom cover 2 screws,removed igniter 2 screws & unplugged igniter from back of oven after removing plate with 1 screw. Could not have been any easier took less than 10 minutes. And doing business with PartSelect was great, would recommend and use again any chance I get.