Models > CAV4000AWW > Instructions

CAV4000AWW Magic Chef Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for CAV4000AWW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the CAV4000AWW
46-60 of 488
Search Instructions
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump". Need help?

Pump was leaking

  • Customer: Christopher from Westwego LA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
I felt extremely confident when purchasing the part because I say three diagrams which clearly showed I was ordering the correct part. 0. Drain all of the water out of the machine. 1. Remove the rear panel from the washer. 2. Use the pliers to disconnect the hoses from the pump. 3. Remove the three screwa from the old pump. 4. Support the washer with the block then take the belt off pulley. 5. Remove old pump. 6. put new pump in place then reconnect the pulley, you can remove the block.. 7. Install the three screws for the pump after you tighten it up by placing the pump over ther correct screw holes.. 8. Reconnect the two hoses using the clamps you removed. 9. Secure the rear panel and screw in place. 10. Wash clothes. EASY FIX!!!

loud hi pitched squeeling noise all the time.

  • Customer: Patrick from Accord NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 14 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Remove front panel and back service panel below water conn. lines. Put a 4" plastic box between the tub and inside of cabinet "directly opposite the spring to be removed to lower the tub to base for less opposing travel to unlatch spring from tub hook. Also took an old slotted screw driver w/ a blade about 1/4 " and grinded 1/8 from middle about an1/8" deep and used it to latch the spring when pushing it up and off the tub. Replaced all 6. Also did motor pivot spring. Tested and the it worked for one cycle, then the tub again just falls to the right as if the spring at 9 o'clock was broke and strains the belt drive but the spin cycle still works o.k. and the washer does not bang and walk away till you stop the machine. Thought the 6 tub springs would take care of both problems. Told that the snubber ring needs to be replaced. Never but another maytag again. JUst did the belt,a week later the water pump went then the springs.....

Water would not stop filling

  • Customer: Hing from Toms River NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 13 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
1. Unplug power cord.
2. Move washer away from the wall to get access to the back of the control panel.
3. Remove 5 screws from the back panel cover with 1/4" driver, & remove cover.
4. Pull the Water Level Switch knob out from the front control panel.
5. Use pliers to slide away the retaining clip holding the clear rubber tube to the water level switch, & separate the tube from the switch.
6. Use 1/4" driver to remove 2 screws holding the switch, & remove the switch.
7. Remove the electrical wires
8. Install new switch in reverse order.

When you are testing out the washer afterward & your spouse said still not fixed because she thought the water level is too high when the water is still running? Wait a little while longer, the water should stop. She is just not used to see it filled without a load of laundry in it.

Washer was shaking and noisy, wasn't spining fast and overall running poor.

  • Customer: joseph from columbus OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
The hardest part of this is the springs. The best way to disconnect and reconnect was to tilt the tub towards the spring I was trying to work on (thus putting less tension on the spring and cutting down the distance). I took a large boot and jammed it into the oposite side wall to hold it in a tilted position before I disconnected the spring and then redid that to reconnect using a vice grip wrench. I replaced all three things, snubber, brake roto and stator and it went back together very easily. The key on the pully shaft was hard to reattach but there was a trick to that as well. The shaft has to move up slightly to slide ring on so you need to have something under the tub to help raise it. After that was back together it was 15 mins. to finish and now the washer is running like new.

High pitched screech from brake at end of spin cycles.

  • Customer: William from Lithia FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 11 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
I disconnected and moved the washer into the garage for optimum work space. Then I opened the top panel (by releasing the two retainer clips between the top and front panels with a putty knife inserted approx 2" in from each side) and taped a spacer block between the back of the tub and the back panel of the washer, to keep the tub from moving toward the back when the washer is tilted.

Then I tilted the washer back against my 2 1/2' high workmate bench (backstopped against the wall). After adjusting the tilt angle to provide adequate access to the bottom of the washer and insure it was was beyond the forward center of gravity, I began the repair.

Working from the bottom, I first removed the drive belt. Then the white dust cap, shaft retaining ring, plastic cam, pulley, and the various washers and bearings leading up to the brake assembly, making note of their order.

Then I removed three of the six 1/2" 10x24 brake stator retaining screws at alternating positions replacing each with one of the three 2" 10x24 screws I had previously purchased the hardware store. Then I removed the three remaining 1/2" screws, and slowly began to remove the three 2" screws alternating a few turns on each in rotation to evenly ease the 200 pounds of pressure from the brake rotor spring.

When the pressure was released, I removed the old brake stator and rotor and placed the new ones on the shaft, then re-compresed the brake rotor spring with the three 2" screws in alternating positions. Then placed three of the original 1/2" screws in the threee open positions, then replaced the three 2" screws with the remaining three 1/2" screws.

Then I reinstalled the remainder ot the parts in reverse order of removal.

Machine growned when washing, brake was slipping

  • Customer: Daniel from Sugar Land TX
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 14 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
Tried to remove brake stator with machine tilted back. Thisforced the stator off center. Removed the 6 holddown springs, water level hose and drain hose. Pull drum & transmission out of the case. Placed the drun on the ground, brake facing up. Replaced the short screws on the brake stator with 2" screws one at a time. Caution the spring has 200 lbs of force. Used 2" screws to back off spring. With spring tenshion released replace parts. Reversed proceedurer. Machine quite. Wife is happy.

Washer leaked water on the floor. Seal nut assembly rubber and o-ring were worn out.

  • Customer: Kevin from Houston TX
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 14 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
Overall, this repair should have been quite easy. The problem was removal of the old seal nut assembly. It was a bear to remove, and ultimately I had to surgically remove it from the washer in pieces. Unfortunately I broke the outer tub (plastic) in the process of getting the nut off. Once I had the silly plastic nut off, and the tub repaired the balance of the repair was absolutely easy.

My summary: This repair is really easy IF the plastic seal nut assembly comes off easily. If it doesn't budget easily, go ahead and chip it apart to get it off, being careful not to damage the threaded part of the agitator shaft. The new one will completely replace the chipped away nut.

Squealing noise in spin cycle this did not fix it!

  • Customer: Ron from Oxford MI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 14 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
This was easy except for the e-ring which was extremely difficult to remove. When I put the new one on I filed down the bottom of the front edges to make it easier to slide it on. Beware: If you have the washer tipped back against the wall when you do get the e-ring off everything will come sliding off the shaft all at once and go everywhere. These parts are covered with black grease and made quite a mess so you might want to have someone hold them in place so you can gently slide them off one piece at a time.

The motor ovrheated,

  • Customer: Dennis from Merritt Island FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
I took the front pannel off just 2 scrwe was holdig the pannel,the motor was in ftont,4 bolt was holdig the moto,and it is very easy to change,

drive belt was squealing and slipping

  • Customer: Kevin from North Plains OR
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I wasted time opening up the metal container for the washing machine, which was easier than expected. The top simply pops off with a little bit of prying with a screwdriver, then the front panel is held in place with two sheet metal screws. The front panel then lifts off and you can see the exterior case for the tub drive mechanism and motor. But, it wasn't obvious what was wrong until I tilted the entire unit backwards and saw the drive belt available directly under the machine and fully accessible without any tools. It was obvious, because there was a 1/8" worth of belt fragment dust under the machine. A new belt was all it needed and after I ordered it from PartSelect, I simply jimmied the old belt off the main pulley and put the new one on. It no longer squeals or slips. Hopefully, I gained another 5 years of life out of the washing machine.

Washing machine beat itself to death during spin cycle

  • Customer: John from Cumberland MD
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 13 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
Removed front cabinet, removed 6 springs holding tub down, removed pump hose, removed drive belt from motor,lifted tub out the top and placed upside down, loosened all six hex bolts(did not loosen or remove drive pulley) backed all six bolts out and left 4 threads showing, slipped old snubber out cleaned all surfaces with alchohol and slid new snubber in. Put corn starch on base where snubber rides, lifted tub back in, hooked up all six tension springs with auto brake tool.put belt back on...done..no more beating itself to death.

water pump was noisy

  • Customer: Patsy from Brookfield, MO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the front panel, Removed the belt from pump in the back of machine. Removed the pump from the back of machine, Put the pump in reconnected the belt, Replaced all the screws. My husband did the repair work in a matter of 45 minutes. Machine works fine now. The part came when I was told it would. I am very pleased with your service.

Washing Machine was bouncing on every load

  • Customer: Hud from Woodruff SC
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Diagnosed that the snubber had failed.
Removed the belt, cam assembly and pulley assembly. Using Maytag brake removal tool #12002012 I removed the brake stator. I removed the front of the washing machine and the rear access plate. I removed the six tension springs. I moved the machine basket and shaft assembly toward the top of the machine. I removed the old snubber and replaced with a new one. I installed 6 new tension springs and reassembled.
The washing machine runs great.

One of the two bolts that holds the motor in place broke off and since the bolts are actually embedded in the motor I had to buy the whole motor rather then just a 25 cent bolt.

  • Customer: Elmer from Fort Campbell KY
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 18 of 36 people found this instruction helpful
First I took the front shield off, then I took the motor off.

WASHER SHAKES AND DANCES

  • Customer: Adrian from West New York NJ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Wrench set
  • 10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
NO NEED TO BUY A BRAKE WRENCH NOR THE EXPENSIVE SPRING REMOVER.
ONCE THE DRUM IS OUT THE WASHER TURN IT UPSIDE DOWN AND LOOSE THE SCREWS HOLDING THE TRANSMISSION ABOUT A LITTLE MORE THAN HALF WAY, TO GIVE THE NEW SNUBBER ENOUGH ROOM TO FIT IN, THEM TIGH AND ASSAMBLE EVERYTHING BACK TOGETHER
All Instructions for the CAV4000AWW
46-60 of 488