Models > CAV4000AWA > Instructions

CAV4000AWA Magic Chef Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for CAV4000AWA parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the CAV4000AWA
16-30 of 356
Search Instructions
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump". Need help?

Puddling on the floor. Water was leaking through the impeller bushing on the water pump

  • Customer: Richard from Boyertown PA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 21 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
..First I sought the source of the water leak, by removing the louvered panel on the rear (4 nut headed screws hold it in place) and observed for water leaks during a wash cycle. This required that I re-position the washer and route the fill and drain hoses in order to stand behind the washer during its cycle to observe through the rear panel opening.

...There was no visible leakage of any of the hoses or connections but I could see the water puddle on the floor was coming from under the water pump located in the front corner.

...I wasn't able to peel the sides off the washer. I disconnected the rear hoses for hot and cold water and the drain hose. I removed the plate on the rear that orients the drain hose.

...I tilted the washer 90 degrees to its front using 2 x 4's to cushion the front so the machine would not be scratched.

....I removed the drive belt underneath. It was easy to remove by hand and did not require loosening screws on any of the pulleys.

...I disconnected the black exhaust hose from the tub with a screw driver and the white drain outlet hose with water pump pliers.

...I then reached into the front corner of the machine through the opening in the back and removed the water pump which is held in place by 3 nut head screws. I used a ratchet set to do this.

...I observed the water pump which is almost all molded plastic. The bushing area in the center attached to the impeller appeared to be wet and rusted. I assumed this to be the source of the water leak. I found the replacement on line at PartSelect site and ordered it. It was much cheaper at PartSelect then other sites.

....When the replacement pump arrived 2 days later , I compared it to the pump I removed. It matched physically including the pulley so then I installed it and re-assembled the washing machine in the reverse order from disassembly.

...I left the louvered panel off and observed the water flow for leaks during the first wash after re-assembly.

...There were no internal leaks and no puddling on the floor, so I replaced the louvered panel and put the washing machine back in place.

The water pump was a bit noisy during the 1st load
but otherwise the machine ran well. After the 1st load the pump is quiet and the machine runs just as it did before the puddling occurred. It is fine.

After having done this I can say, it was uncomfortable and cramped to reach in through the rear panel opening to remove and replace the water pump. But I could not find a way to lift the top of the machine easily so I could removed the side panels to have better access to the water pump and hoses. If anyone knows a way to do that without unplugging and removing the electronics panel, that would be useful information. Please post it.

It can be done the way I described here because I did it, but that may not be the easiest way if the side panels can be easily removed it would probably be an easier repair.

replaced snubber ring and springs to stop unbalanced spinning

  • Customer: Kim from qPeachland NC
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 20 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
Move washer to area with plenty of room. I took mine out to the deck. take off front of cabinet remove back panel, remove old springs, (a bit hard) remove belt, lift out tub turn over and loosen screws do not remove!! remove old snubber and replace with new, Not bad. Put tub back in washer put on new springs(didn't think I'd ever get them on, not enough upperbody strength)Video would have been priceless!
reattach belt and panels put washer back in place. No noise upon spinning but I now have issues with the agitator, Need a new washer!

Load was to wet after last spin cycle.

  • Customer: Earl from Crest Hill IL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 23 of 33 people found this instruction helpful
Turned off water suply. Removed drain (pipe is short). Then slid washer out so I could tilt it back and work under the washer. I put a wood brace under the front of the washer for safety. I then followed the instructions that came with the parts.

washer would not spin water out in heavy loads

  • Customer: marcus from mansfield TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 18 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
You do not have to remove any water lines to do this repair. Just unplug the machine from the electric outlet and tip it up on its back to make the repair. I removed the old belt and parts per the instructions. The new kit does not look like the old one. Make sure you mark the minimum and maximum marks with a sharpie on the plastic pulley before intalling it. This will help line up the cam bearing to test the spin cycle. The repair kit says to use the thickest washer but mine would not fit on so I used the thinner washer. Keep the other washer so that in the future if the plastic part wears down and you have spinning problems again you can replace it with the thicker washer. Also make sure you buy a new belt and replace the belt. I loaded it up with a full load of jeans and it works great.

Knocking and Squealing Noise then Motor Hum

  • Customer: Ron from Norfolk VA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set
  • 16 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the control panel, top and front panels to access the motor. Removed the motor and inspected. The motor looked fine. Leaned machine back and remove the brake cover following the directions posted by others on this website. Discovered grease and grime on the friction brake, which did not look right. The grease must have slung off of the transmission shaft. Wiped the brake clean with a dry rag and put machine back together. Machine did not run, motor only hummed. I replaced the motor only and the machine now works fine. My feeling is the grease caused the brake to stick and every time the motor started up, the sticking brake put a strain on the motor. Over time this cause the motor to burn up. Machine is only 6 years old. Sounds like a design flaw.

Water pump failed and was making loud screeching noises. Eventually, it bound up stopping the washer.

  • Customer: Mark from Port Matilda PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 17 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
I unplugged the electric power cord and disconnected the two water hoses and the drain line from the wall. It was messy as water leaked from the disconnected hoses. I tilted the washer forward and leaned it against a bench for support. This exposed the bottom of the washer from the back. I removed the v-belt from the three pulleys. The motor mount was spring loaded making it easy to remove the v-belt from this pulley first. After removing the v-belt, I then removed the 4 screws to the small plate on the back of the washer to gain access to the water pump. I then removed the two water hoses from the water pump using vice grips to squeeze the clamps and slide them off of the hoses toward the water pump. After removing the two hoses (a little messy again), I removed the water pump by using a socket ratchet to loosen the four bolts. I replaced the water pump with the new pump and then reassembled everything in reverse order.

washer would agitate, drain, but would not spin

  • Customer: michael from mountain home ID
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 17 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
I put the washer on the spin cycle and could see that the tub wanted to move. While it was trying to spin I leaned the washer forward and saw that the motor was spinning and the belt was turning, but the tub wasn't. Did some reading and it was the thrust bearing. I ordered the part and replaced them (very easy, follow the directions that come with the set). After install, the tub would spin.

slipping drive belt

  • Customer: stephen from redondo beach CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 16 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
Tipped machine 45-degrees to reveal belt on bottom of machine. Used screwdriver to remove old belt which looked fine. Installed new belt (which arrived from PartSelect within 2-days) but it felt loose. Tried machine anyway and it works just fine. Easiest repair ever. Thanks, PartSelect!

Washer jumping all over the place even with a small load.

  • Customer: Gary from Sioux City IA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 15 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
I checked out your other repair information and deided I could do this. Ordered the part and it as her several days before I expected it.

Ok, let's do this thing.

MAGIC TOOLS:
5/16" socket or wrench and #2 Phillips screwdriver and something to remove hose clamps - I recomend a 6" to 8" vice grips and a 6" to 8" plires.

1. Pulled the washer out in the middle of the floor and disconnected the hoses and removed the rear access cover, disconnected the pump hose, released the top using a 1/8' common screwdriver in that narrow space between the top and the front panel. Removed the 2 screws holding the front panel on and removed the front panel.

2. Disconnected fill level hose- toward the left rear side - turned the machine on it's side and walked the drive belt off, tipped it back up right and removed the 6 springs - be sure to note their orientation and location.

3. Lifted the whole assembly out of the top of the machine and set it upside down next to the machine.

4. Loosened the screws holding the snubber in place - NOTE I did not remove the screws - loosen them sequentially little by little untill you can get the snubber to come out. I did not remove the pulley as my Craftsman ratchet and standard - short - socket allowed me to get between the pulley and the screws to loosen them.

5. I removed the old well worn snubber, cleaned the area up and the new snubber actually fell into place and I retightened the screws in the reverse order until they were solid feeling.

6. I lifted the assembly back into the frame, reconnected the springs and the pump hose and the fill level hose. I reinstalled the front cover - AND HERE IS THE IMPORTANT PART!

7. You are so happy this is going so well that you forget to put the BELT back on before you hook up the hoses, so you have to unhook the hoses to put the belt back on and then rehook the hot and cold hoses and drain hose again.

8. Except for number 7 this is a piece of cake. My only concern is how often will I have to do this. The machine is only 8 years old.

Intermittent problem with lid switch, no high speed spin/pump out

  • Customer: Linda from La Porte IN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 16 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
Disconnect power, unsnap and raise machine top cover w/lid, remove old switch - two screws under lid, taking care to not drop loose actuator lever into machine. Remove control panel back and disconnect switch wire connector. Intall new switch, taking care to not drop loose actuator lever into machine, connect switch wires inside control panel. Replace panel cover and lower machine top cover w/lid and snap into place, reconnect power, verify operation...

broken spring in bottom of washing machine

  • Customer: Mike from Rochester MN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 13 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Opened the front panel by using a flathead screwdriver (to pop the top lid up) and socket wrench (to loosen the front panel off). I then had to reach in and replace the missing/broken suspension spring. The spring was very difficult to extend so I used coins to lodge into the spring to elongate it. After the spring coils were loaded and held apart with coins (nickels and quarters) the spring could be installed using a pliers for leverage. The washer doesn't make the loud banging noise anymore!

Water would leak out from the bottom of the washer

  • Customer: Amanda from Lewisville TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
I used a putty knife to disengage the clips that attach the top of the washer to the front panel. The top will lay back without having to hold it however, I didn't trust it to stay up on it's own so I used a bungy cord and straped it onto a wire rack that hangs on the wall above my washer. Next I removed the two screws, one on each side, located on the inside of the front panel near the top of it. Then I gently pulled the front panel towards myself so that I could lift it off of the clips located at the bottom of the panel. The pump assembly is located at the front right corner inside of the washer. I disconnected the two hoses that run to the pump assembly and using my ratchet, I removed the 3 screws that hold the pump assembly in place. There is a belt on the bottom of the washer that goes around three pulleys, one of which is the pump assembly pulley. After I removed the pump assembly, I took the belt and laid it to the side. I then installed the new pump assembly. After I put everything back together, I gently tipped the washer over on it's side as far as I could and reinstalled the belt around all three pulleys. I started with the pulley on the left side and then the pulley in the middle and finally, the pump assembly pulley. I have washed a total of seven loads of laundry since I did the repair and have had no problems.

Washer made grinding noise then stopped working.

  • Customer: David from Honesdale PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 13 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
First I tipped the washing machine onto its front. I removed the belt on the bottom of the machine. Then I removed the screws that held the cover in place on the back of the machine. Next I removed the two hoses that were connected to the vertical pump using pliers to pinch the clamps. I then removed three screws that held the vertical pump in place. I took the new verticle pump with pulley and mounted it to the washer and putting the washer machine back together using the previous steps in reverse order.

terrible screeching during agitation after having washer only 3 months

  • Customer: stephen from soddy daisy TN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 15 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
First I disconnected the hoses and moved washer out to a larger area. Washer had to be completely torn down. Took front cover and casing off. Took all electrical and plumbing fixtures out. Removed the drum hold-down springs. Removed the drive belt. Inverted the drum/agitator section. Removed the drive pulley and bearing assembly. Removed the brake snubber. Removed the brake shoe. Reinstalled new parts. Put washer back together. It now works great.

Washing machine sqeeling to a stop after spin cycle

  • Customer: William from Middletown OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 13 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
By sliding the machine out away from the wall I tipped it back so that it set against the wall on an angle enough for me to work on the bottom. I removed the belt and drive pully. The brake stator can be removed from the bottom if drum is centered. The brake is under pressure from a big spring in there that applies the brake. Replacing three of its mounting screws with longer ones (10-24 x 2) allows you to let pressure off of the brake spring slowly. Replaced brake rotor and stator and compressed spring with long screws as in removal. Replaced all original screws to hold in place. Installed pulley and belt. Works like brand new, all for about $30. I bought the snubber also but did not realize that this is not part of the brake. I little confusing on the parts drawing.
All Instructions for the CAV4000AWA
16-30 of 356