CAV4000AGW Magic Chef Washer - Instructions

Release top of washer with putty knife (2 clips), unscrew Phillips head on hinge, replace hinge, replace screw, close washer top.

Be prepared - the repair kit lacks many needed items. Two tools are missing. This includes the spanner wrench that you need to remove and then tighten the hub shoulder that threads onto the transmission shaft. Also, the tool to remove and replace the hub springs is missing. The instructions only cover the triple lip seal replacement. These get you to the point the spin hub and outer hub are removed. The instructions do not take you through removal of the transmission from the mounting brackets. This is tricky! The brake spring applies 200lbs of force. I used three C-clamps to slowly back off the bottom plate. Two more major items to be aware of. The order you tackle removal of the hub springs (6) and the outer tub is important. I found the only way I could remove and replace the hub springs was with the outer hub removed. So, during disassembly, remove the outer hub then the hub springs. During assembly, replace the hub springs, then replace the outer hub. The final zinger - no new bolts were provided to bolt the spin hub to the hub shoulder. On my washer, the original hub shoulder took a self threading stainless bolt that was 1 1/8" long. These are not through holes. They are closed. So, the depth of the hole is critical. The new shoulder required 1" long bolts. So, when I used the original bolts, they never seated and the hub worked itself loose after 4 or 5 loads. Off to the hardware store for 1" bolts. Luckily, the old bolts at least threaded the holes for me, and I could use standard stainless bolts. Otherwise, who knows where I would have had to go for self-threading bolts. All of these issues ended up creating a 9 hour repair.

everything pretty much just unbolted real easy. the parts come with a nice set of instructions. you don't need to use the special hub removal tool. just take a small piece of wood and smack it on the ear of the hub to the left counter clockwise. it might be tough but just keep smacking it till it comes loose. then install it in reverse. simple job. you also might need some big vise scrips to get ahold of the springs real good to get them off and back on...

The repair itself was not complicated: it was just taking off the old springs and putting on the new ones. Where it became difficult was, rather than having the appliance on a platform, I was doing it from the ground. This made it a bit hard to get some leverage to stretch the new springs into place, especially in the back. I would recommend that you have a second person there to push the tank toward the spring you are replacing. This helps reduce the distance you need to stretch the spring. If you ARE in a position to get it up on a platform, that would probably be best and would make the job much easier.

I found the instructions on www.ehow.com about how to remove the shell of the washer so I could find what was going on with the washer and why it would smell like burning metal. I found it was the Drain Pump with Pulley Assembly P/N: PS2347187. It was easy to replace and saved $$$$ from having to purchase a new washer or call a repairman or women.

pURSUANT TO THE VIDEO PROVIDED BY PARTSELECT, I DISCONNECTED POWER CORD, HOT AND COLD WATER HOSES. ALSO, REMOVED DRAIN HOSE FROM DRAIN PIPE CONNECTION. LAY THE WASHER ON ITS SIDE REMOVED THE PULLEY BELT THEN FOLLOWED THE VIDEO TO REMOVE DUST COVER, C-CLIP, CAM, PULLEY, THRUST BEARING ALONG WITH ASSOCIATED WASHERS FROM THE TRANSMISSION SHAFT.INSTALLATION WAS THE REVERSE AS SHOWN IN THE INSTRUCKIONS PROVIDED IN THE KIT.

we followed the video instruction that was given,on how too replace the part of the snugger. it worked really well. we are pleased with everything.

I followed the video but didn't remove the motor. Instead I lifted the tub through the top. I also didn't have longer screws with that thread, so I used slightly smaller diameter screws with nuts on the end and it worked great.

Easy as pie but had to cut one with hack saw to remove as it would not unscrew. Rust was the problem. Hack saw was the cure. Otherwise repair would have taken 5 minutes Washer now works as it did as a new appliance.

I replaced the brake spring(not really necessary) and the snubber ring.I also installed a new thrust bearing kit,but the problem turned out to be a bad transmission.I found a good working used one at a local junk yard and so far it is working great.Your how to videos were very helpful in getting the job done properly.Thanks very much!

Used Putty Knife to release a tab on left split of cover/lid assembly lifting up slightly to release the tab, then I repeated the same on the right side. With the belt already flung off of the unit, I saw the 2 screws inside left/right top corners holding the front cover On. I tilted it forward and up and released from two clips on the bottom of the unit. With the front cover removed I saw the pump on the lower right side of the tank. 3 screws and 2 hoses hold the pump in place. Once pump was removed reversed how it was taken apart.

The first thing we did was to lift the top of the washer off the main box by unscrewing the hinges at the back of the washer. We then were able to access the lid hinge screws located underneath the lid. We unscrewed and removed the old hinges from the washer, lifting the lid off the washer. Then we were able to unscrew and remove the old hinges from the lid itself. We then screwed on the new hinges and pins, and reattached the lid to the washer. Finally we put the top back on the main box of the washer and screwed the top back onto the main assembly, and voila! It works great and saved us $200 in repairs.

I followed the directions online, but they don't talk about two difficulties with this model. The first is removing the drive belt. This is CRUCIAL! Tilt the dryer backwards, and remove the belt from the pulleys. When putting it back on, when the repair is complete put it on the two smaller pulleys first, and then the large pulley. The other difficulty that is not addressed with this model is accessing the suspension springs. If you choose not to remove the entire housing, I would use a wooden block (2x4 works great) to act as a lever for the vicegrips. I may be weak, but I have a bruised forearm that would have been avoided if I had thought of the wooden block earlier.

Watch video, fallowed it's instructions which made it a "piece of cake"

I removed the belt and pully form under the washer. Lefted the top cover, removed the hardware above the tub, took the front cover panel off to gain access to the tub. Used pliers to remove the springs. Lifted the tub up high enough to install the snubber ring. After putting tht washer back together and doing the first the load the washer stopped banging.