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CAV2005AWW Magic Chef Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the CAV2005AWW
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Water would not shut off after filling desired level
Took out the two top screws out that hold the top down on the back so you can lift the lid up. Removed the cover plate on the back. Take out the screw that holds the valve in place. Reach up through the access panel and undo the to clips that hold the hose and wiring. Lift the lid up and pull the unit up and remove hose and electrical connections and put back in reverse order. Very simple to do.
Parts Used:
Water Valve - 60/40
  • Richard from Geneva, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
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Topside door would not remain in an open position; lid hinges worn out.
The lid hinges are fastened to the top of the washing machine body, near the edge of the lid, with 1 screw each.
To remove the old lid hinges, with the lid clamped in the open position, I needed to gain access to the screw heads from underneath, just inside the edge of the lid opening. To get at these screw heads, I needed to push the inside wash drum toward the screw I wanted to remove and wedge something in the gap created between the body of the washer opening and the drum, directly opposite the screw that I pushed the drum towards. What? This is to hold the drum completely out of the way while getting at the screw. My wedge was the handle of a squeege that just happenned to be nearby, but just about anything will work.
Once the drum was secure, I was able to get at the screw head, which, by the way, is a totally blind operation; you cannot see the screw head, only feel it. I guess we're kind of used to feeling our way around these days. Anyway, I had to repeat the wedging thing to remove the other lid hinge.
The only real problem I had was the original (factory installed) screw heads were hex heads, and I struggled a bit finding the correct size allen wrench to blindly remove the screws. It is a good thing that I also ordered 2 new screws along with the new lid hinges because the new screws have phillips heads. Much easier to work with, even though they were a little pricey. The old hex head screws were kind of worn and it would have been a cursing operation to try to reuse them.
Once the old hinges were off, I removed the lid, installed the new hinges on the lid and clamped the lid in place in the open position, while I screwed the new hinges on (wedging the drum out of the way like before). NOTE: It might be a good idea to line the wash drum with newspaper in case a screw slips out and finds its way into one the holes in the drum; lost forever. Anyway, this may sound like alot, but it really isn't. My wife didn't even comment on how the lid isn't smashing down on her any more. That's OK, I'm grateful I'm not the one doing laundry!
Parts Used:
Lid Hinge Screw
  • James from Oakland, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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I had water leaking from the top of the tub.
I opened up the top of the washer which exposed the tub, I took the top ring off the tub and under in side of the ring is the seal. Took the old one out and put the new one in. The old seal was completely wore out.
It was real easy.
Finding the part is usually the hardest part, but thanks to Parts Select finding the part was the easiest part of the repair.
Parts Used:
Top Tub Seal
  • Lester from Elk Grove, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
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Washer lid came off hinges
PROBLEM: The washer lid has two hinge pins that are attached to the lid with Phillips screws (one per pin). The plastic pin that inserts into the hinge broke off, allowing the lid to come free. SOLUTION: First, I removed the lid from the washing machine. Second, I used a Phillips-head screwdriver to remove the original hinge pins from the lid. Third, I replaced the hinge pins. Fourth, I used a flat-head screw driver to pry up the washer top to obtain easier access to the hinge screws. Fifth, I removed the original hinges with a Phillips-head screwdriver (one screw per hinge). Sixth, I attached the new hinges to the washer lid. Finally, I attached the hinges (and lid) to the washer top, then lowered the washer top.
Parts Used:
Lid Hinge Pin Lid Hinge
  • Geoffrey from Knoxville, TN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Noticed nick in drive belt durng inspection and cleaning
Washer was making noise especially when spinning. I took the washer apart to clean it, That is what it really needed. Also adjusted the water level to prevent overflows which caused soap and water to get underneath into the drive belt area as well. During inspection noticed a nick in the drive belt, Although this was not really causing immediate problem wanted to repalce it to prevent problems. Ordered the belt; it came in two days with no special postage. To install, just leaned the washer over on its front on a slight incline. Took old belt off and put new on by turning the big pulley. It is spring tensioned, so no tools. This may be the easiest part repacement I ever did. Took longer to write this paragraph than to repalce the belt.
Parts Used:
Drive Belt - 51 inches long
  • Brian from Plainville, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Leaking Water Pump
Pulled wahser away from wall, unpluged, removed screws from rear access panel, removed hoses from water pump, used towell to absorb excess water still in pump and hoses, removed drive belt, removed screws securing pump, removed old pump replaced it with new pump, cussed a little when replacing hoses, repeated steps in reverse order, checked for leaks.
Parts Used:
Washer Drain Pump
  • Edwin from Eagar,, AZ
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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Cold water no fill
Always check the basics first!

Mistakenly replaced the water valve (even though it was buzzing idicating it had power and showed 110V across terminals). Assumed the water lines were working. Turned out to be a clogged cold water line (safety valve clogged). Replaced both lines for good measure, machine working fine.
Parts Used:
Water Valve - 60/40
  • Christopher from Cincinnati, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
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washer got off balance almost every load.
i followed the directions i found online. do not take the screws all the way out! The snubber ring solved the problem. I replaced the springs since i had them. The old ones seemed OK.
Parts Used:
Suspension Springs - Kit of 6
  • keith from auburn, AL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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It squeaks when stop spinning
I think normally the problem is caused by the Brake Rotor Lining Assy (item #50 on the diagram). It has a brake lining facing down that makes contact with item # 51. It turned out that I had grease & grime on these parts, thus the brake is not taking grip & causing squeaky noise. All I had to do was to clean the parts & put them back. I bought the part (#50) - P/N 2347192, but it was a whirlpool part that didn't fit my Magic Chef. Some parts fit both brands, but this 1 didn't. Here is the procedure:

1. Unplug washer.
2. Move unit away from wall.
3. Tilt it back far enough to work underneath. Support the front with lumber.
4. Pull out cap (#58)
5. Remove ring clip (#57)
6. slide out everything from #53 down. Keep them in same order for re-installation.
7. There are 6 ea screws (#53) that hold item #52 to item #45. It is spring loaded by item #47. Item #53 has a 5/16" hex head. Use 3 ea. #10-24 hex head screw, at least 1.25" long to assist in compress/decompress the spring tension. You can buy them from a hardware store.
8. Take out every other screw (#53) & replace them with these 3 longer screws for remove/re-installation of item #52.
9. Take out the remaining 3 ea #52 screws.
10. Go around & back off each of the 3 longer screws to decompress the spring.
11. Remove item #52, & everything from #48 down will come out.
12. Clean or replace what you need.
13. Do the reverse to put everything back.
14. There is an item within #59 that looks like a miniature bearing. I would put some grease on that & on item #55.
Parts Used:
Washer Brake Rotor
  • Hing from Toms River, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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lid switch acuator broke and some cycles would not work
unscrew the screw holding the broken part in the lid to remove the old part and tighten the screw to a firm position to hold the new piece in place. Now working fine.
Parts Used:
Lid Switch Actuator - Black
  • Brian from Woodbury, MN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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Hoes had a leak in it
The Repair went well . I had the hose on in about 30 seconds . The best part about this ordeal was the ease of finding the part on your website , and the speed of the delivery . I had my part in about 2 days , put it on and back to the fun part of clothes washing . I would recomend this company to everyone. Thanks, Rick K.
Parts Used:
Tub to Pump Hose
  • Richard from moyock, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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Washer motor
Replace the motor in 25 minutes, my repair guy said it was not worth the time , I got this motor for less than $150. And save my self over $600.00, this was incredible.
Parts Used:
Motor with Pulley
  • Nicholas from BROOKLYN, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Socket set
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water was not going to the barrel
first I thought there is a problem with with hoses.problems like filter or hoses blocked.after I opened the hoses they were fine .Water was going out with power .Then I opened the valve connected to the hoses . I checked these hoses withe help of a 12 volt battery . the valve was not opening so I came to the conclusion that this part is broke.is not easy to change this part.Small place and hard to unlock the hose inside .They could design this much easier with just using longer hose.But I think then nobody will call service dept.
Parts Used:
Water Valve - 60/40
  • HAMID from CHATSWORTH, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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Washing Machine Walking during Spin Cycle
Looked up probable causes on PartSelect website. Determined that worn snubber ring and and weak springs were probable cause. Ordered parts on a Thursday. Parts arrived on following Monday.

Read several repair stories on the website. One story gave step-by-step instructions for disassembly. Very helpful since I followed this prescription. While waiting for delivery of the parts, I removed the tub and inverted it.

Removing springs was relatively easy. Did not remove snubber ring until new parts arrived, but replacing it was easy. I was very cautious about loosening the 6 screws and heeded the warning about the 200 pound spring under the cover.

Diagrams on website showing expanded mechanism of washing machine parts were very helpful for reassembly.

The most difficult part was installing the new springs, since they were quite strong. One repair story on the website suggested using coins to expand the new springs enough to be able to hook the springs into the upper slots and hangers.

I USED ONE OF THE MORE ACCESSIBLE LOCATIONS (AT THE REAR OF THE MACHINE) TO PREPARE EACH SPRING FOR INSTALLATION).

I hooked a spring in the bottom slot. I pushed a long heavy screwdriver through the spring's upper hook and the hole in the metal support and expanded the spring until I could insert 1/2-inch washers (about 8) between the rings. I prepared each spring this way for installation around the tub. With the washers in the expanded spring, it was relatively easy to use a pliers to lift the upper hook into the hole or hanger.

I decided to insert the spring next to the motor first since it was the more inaccessible. The remaining springs were installed relatively easily.

Reassembly was easy by following the reverse order of the disassembly instructions. I found the tub to be pretty heavy to lift, so when it came time to put it back into the frame, I turned the frame on it's side and inserted the tub from floor level.

I am very proficient mechanically but I believed I could make this repair without difficulty. I think that without the repair stories I had viewed on the website, it would have been more difficult. A spring tool would have been immeasurebly more helpful.
Parts Used:
Drive Belt - 51 inches long Suspension Springs - Kit of 6 Snubber Ring
  • Daniel J from Cayce, SC
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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The washer was making a fine squeeling noise that created a foul burning odor
Took the washer outside, turned the washer on its side to expose the bottom panel. Removed the old water pump (three screws and two hoses. Replaced with new water pump and connected all fittings. Real easy to do. Washer runs great now.
Parts Used:
Washer Drain Pump
  • SONY from CONCORD, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the CAV2005AWW
76 - 90 of 385