CAV2005AWW Magic Chef Washer - Instructions

I watched the entire video. Then I completed the repair one section at a time referring to the instructional video. It took four hours but I was taking my time and being methodical. The video did not mention replacing the drive belt at the end of the procedure. Over all I was very please. I spent $40 and repaired my old machine rather than spending several hundred dollars on a new machine. I would definitely recommend it.

I replaced the brake spring(not really necessary) and the snubber ring.I also installed a new thrust bearing kit,but the problem turned out to be a bad transmission.I found a good working used one at a local junk yard and so far it is working great.Your how to videos were very helpful in getting the job done properly.Thanks very much!

I like to think this repair was easy, for me and anyone who is mechanically inclined. However, "easy" only applies to the person using the word. I'm sure an astronaut might define what he does as easy. He's been trained to do what he does. I, however, won't be taking a spacewalk any time soon. The repair was not bad at all with the help of this website. The great thing about this site is it's guidance to what may be causing the problem with the appliance, its direction to the parts that may need replacing to solve the problem, and the replacement directions. I have not failed, as of yet, to locate the appliance I need on this site. Also, feedback from customers who have performed the same repair. I have repaired our Maytag dryer and Whirlpool refrigerator in the past using this site to determine the problem(s). Simply put, saves on hiring a repair man and/or buying a new appliance. Plus, I like repairing anything myself that I feel I can handle. Versus repeating what has been submitted many times, just follow the instructions on site. Once you start taking things apart, it will become clear what has to be done. Toughest part (for some) will be the tub springs. Since the springs hold the tub in place and are also involved in keeping the tub steady, I replaced them along with the snubber ring. Makes sense since your going to have the washer apart with access to the springs anyway. Note: I mentioned repairing our dryer. A squeak developed and eventually turned into a squawk. Based on what I learned, I replaced the drum rollers. Re-assembled only to find it still squawked. Had to take it apart again and determined it was actually the pulley on the belt tensioning arm. Back to the washer; one warning I can send out is being careful replacing the springs. My wife came out as I was hooking them back up. She decided she wanted to help. One spring (behind the motor) is a little difficult to hook back up to the tub, due to access. As she was helping, trying to guide the spring into the loop, I continually repeated "be careful where you put your fingers." Sure enough, the spring slipped out of the pliers when trying to stretch and snapped back bruising her finger. I'm sure it hurt. Let me rephrase, I know it hurt. Irregardless, she's going to be okay. My point, a spring is a spring. They have tension and care must be taken. Best advice, where a pair of contractors gloves. Another, "BE AWARE OF THE 200LB SPRING BELOW THE TUB PULLEY." Take care loosening the flange. If removed, opens up a different issue altogether. It is not necessary to remove this flange to remove and/or install the snubber ring. Again, a spring is a spring. 200 pounds is a far cry from the tub spring, which sprung back on my wife. Once I completed the repairs and reassembled, the washer works like a charm. Based on longevity, I expect this will give us another five years of use. The dryer repair, however, seems to give use only three years functionality. Kid you not, the dryer started squeaking again the day after I repaired the washer. I know what's in my near appliance repair future.

The pump did not fit the washer. The situation required that I drill holes in the washer base to match holes in the pump base. The pump sat too far down causing the nozzle to be impeded by the shape of the washer base. To rectify this I used bolts and nuts to secure pump to washer base and used three washers for each of the three nuts to raise the pump into the proper position. After jockeying the pump into place, it works fine, so far. The water pump is a simple enough device that relays on sturdy bearings and a proper seal. If the pump fails it will be entirely because the bearings wore out as with the last much cheaper replacement pump I purchased ($14). The original started leaking eight years after we bought the machine.

Followed directions on Parts Select Video found on You Tube. Only thing different was the use of coins inserted into springs to relieve tension .This is a great tip and worked very nicely.

The first thing we did was to lift the top of the washer off the main box by unscrewing the hinges at the back of the washer. We then were able to access the lid hinge screws located underneath the lid. We unscrewed and removed the old hinges from the washer, lifting the lid off the washer. Then we were able to unscrew and remove the old hinges from the lid itself. We then screwed on the new hinges and pins, and reattached the lid to the washer. Finally we put the top back on the main box of the washer and screwed the top back onto the main assembly, and voila! It works great and saved us $200 in repairs.

I followed the directions online, but they don't talk about two difficulties with this model. The first is removing the drive belt. This is CRUCIAL! Tilt the dryer backwards, and remove the belt from the pulleys. When putting it back on, when the repair is complete put it on the two smaller pulleys first, and then the large pulley. The other difficulty that is not addressed with this model is accessing the suspension springs. If you choose not to remove the entire housing, I would use a wooden block (2x4 works great) to act as a lever for the vicegrips. I may be weak, but I have a bruised forearm that would have been avoided if I had thought of the wooden block earlier.

I removed the belt and pully form under the washer. Lefted the top cover, removed the hardware above the tub, took the front cover panel off to gain access to the tub. Used pliers to remove the springs. Lifted the tub up high enough to install the snubber ring. After putting tht washer back together and doing the first the load the washer stopped banging.

open top with putty knife. take screw out holding valve. unscrew hoses and reverse procedure. also replaced washers.

Tilted the washer as described in the "video".I was able to "balance" the washer with one hand and remove and install the belt with my other hand. The whole process took less than five minutes.It was just a matter of turning the pulley and "pushing " the belt on with my hand.The washer works great.Trust me, I've NEVER had anything go easier than this installation in my life.Thanks for a great video, and getting the correct part out as quickly as you did.

Tilted washer backward and simply took old belt off and replaced with new by wrapping smaller pulley's first and larger pulley last. Next was a simple replacement of pump through back panel of washer. Washer is now quite and spins clothes more efficiently and reduces dryer times.

Replaced the pump and belt for good measure. Problem solved! Great website.

I watch the video and it took me less than five minutes to change the drive belt. The washer has been running great and no more burning smell. Thanks.

I borrowed a 13mm socket wrench. Removed the softener dispenser, prying it off with a flat screwdriver. Unscrewed the 13mm bolt, lifted off the broken agitator, placed the new agitator in place and bolted it down. At that point, the dispenser simply snaps back into place. Very simple replacement.

Remove all hoses and power supply tiled washer towards the front. By removing four screws to rear access panel on the back of washer to gain access to drain pump. Removing drive belt and releasing hose clamps. With socket wrench or nut driver remove three screws to remove pump from washer base. Replaced with new drain pump is a reverse to removing old pump.