Models > CAV2000AWW > Instructions

CAV2000AWW Magic Chef Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for CAV2000AWW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the CAV2000AWW
76-90 of 488
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LOW COLD WATER FLOW

  • Customer: DONALD from LENOIR NC
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
REPLACE VALVE BY PRYING UP THE LID IT IS MUCH EASIER THAN THE SMALL SQUARE ENTRANCE ON BACK SIDE BOTTOM

Water Pump was making loud noises

  • Customer: Thomas from Bel Air MD
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
After pulling the machine away from the wall and turning off the water and unpluging. I simply removed the panel in the back and reached underneath and removed the belt. Took off the hose clamps and removed the three screws holding the pump on. Put the new pump back in place and hooked up the hoses. Then put the belt on for a test run.......all OK put the back on and was done. Whole job about twenty minutes. Saved over two hundred dollars doing this myself. Very simple repair.

Grinding noise, then motor shut off.

  • Customer: Joseph from Phoenixville PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Disassembly
- Took the back bottom plate off.
- Removed hoses.
- Removed pump with pulley (3 nut screws)
- Removed belt

Installed new parts
- Installed pump with pulley (3 screws)
- Installed belt by placing on 2 small pulleys, then turning onto the large pulley (used a screwdriver to help align over pulley for leverage).
- Replaced hoses
- Replaced back plate.

Water intermittently leaking from bottom of washer

  • Customer: Debbie from Colchester CT
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I could not tell where the leak was coming from. It was intermittent. Also the clothes were not getting totally dry in the spin cycle. Finally the drum stopped turning. The bearing in the waterpump was shot and the water was leaking from the waterpump. Luckily or unluckily, the bearing completely went and I then found out that the intermittent leaking was coming from the pump. I replaced the pump and the belt that was damaged when the pump bearing locked up. This has resolved the leaking issue.

Noticed nick in drive belt durng inspection and cleaning

  • Customer: Brian from Plainville CT
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Washer was making noise especially when spinning. I took the washer apart to clean it, That is what it really needed. Also adjusted the water level to prevent overflows which caused soap and water to get underneath into the drive belt area as well. During inspection noticed a nick in the drive belt, Although this was not really causing immediate problem wanted to repalce it to prevent problems. Ordered the belt; it came in two days with no special postage. To install, just leaned the washer over on its front on a slight incline. Took old belt off and put new on by turning the big pulley. It is spring tensioned, so no tools. This may be the easiest part repacement I ever did. Took longer to write this paragraph than to repalce the belt.

Loud squeal when spin cycle finished, white powder under washer

  • Customer: Kevin from Pooler GA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench set
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Read DIY review from William, Middleton, OH on 01-15-08. Tip on how to relieve spring pressure on brake assembly worked like a dream (3ea 10-24X2 bolts/machine screws). Replaced brake and machine works like new and was an inexpensive fix. Once the shell/housing is off the machine, tub can be turned upside down and the base doesn't need to be removed. White powder under machine was a plastic wear ring that tells you when your brake rotor needs to be changed. Brake rotor still had lining but was much thinner than replacement part. Note* Use putty knife to push in clips on front to release the top lid section.

during wash cycle, water poured out of bottom of washer

  • Customer: Susan from Cloquet MN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 8 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
first we looked at schematics on your web site to see what we thought was wrong and if we felt we could do ourselves. It appeared to be seals and gaskets, so we went for it and carefully took the washer apart. We ordered the parts, cleaned the parts we had such as the tub, and were all ready to put back together when the parts arrived. Again, using your pictures, we reasselbled and when we tested, it worked better than it had been in a long time. And we saved a large repair bill!

both hinges on washer lid were broken

  • Customer: Harris from Ashland PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
if you move the agiatater all the way to one side you can acess the star screws from under the hinge then push the agitator to the other side and acess the screw on the other hinge , you dont have to remove the top of the washer, let me say i did not have the serial no and the people at part select were very helpful and pacient when i called and they got me the RIGHT part the firdt time.thanks again for all your help the job came out perfect and saved me a lot of money for a repair man. ASHER

Severly off balance during spin cycle

  • Customer: David from Duluth GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
My washing machine was severely off balance during the spin cycle. It would bang violently against the side and “walk” across the laundry room. I was able to fix this for under $25 dollars of parts from partselect.com and a few hours. I rated the task as easy, but I am somewhat mechanically inclined. Others may find it a bit difficult but I believe anyone except an absolute beginner can do this job.

Fix this problem before significant damage is done to your base! Otherwise the job will take more time and be a LOT more expensive. My base had experienced a little damage but thankfully it did not require replacement. When the snubber wears out, it allows the tub to rub against the base. Metal on metal is never a good thing.

Also I chose to replace the springs, even though it may not have been 100% necessary. You have to take them off anyway and they are inexpensive. It is easy to know when a spring is broken, but not as easy to know when it has lost some of its spring. Just makes sense to me to replace them.

I used the directions below which I found on the internet. They are listed below unedited by me. I have added a few of my own comments below that.

• Remove power and all hoses
• Lift top by inserting putty knife just inside front clips to release
• Remove front and rear panels, 10mm
• Disconnect drain hose from bottom of drum, pliers - spring clip
• Remove 6 springs from bottom of drum using channel lock or spring tool
• Lay on side, remove drive belt by turning large drive pulley and side tension to belt
• Remove water level hose on side of drum, pliers - spring clip
• Remove drum from cabinet by sliding out top. It is not necessary to remove drum from transmission.
• Inspect base plate for damage
• Lay drum on padded surface, upside down
• Remove C clip, drive pulley, being careful to observe order of parts and washers
• Loosen 6 screws holding down old snubber. DO NOT REMOVE SCREWS, THERE IS A VERY STRONG SPRING UNDER THIS PLATE. Loosen screws only enough to get old snubber out.
• Clean dust from area.
• Insert new snubber, keeping it even while tightening screws.
• Reverse other processes above to assemble washer. Replace any broken drum springs. Replace belt if worn.

My tips:

• After you remove the tub you will see a lot of fine white dust in the bottom of the washer. That is from your old worn out snubber. Vaccum it out.

• I didn’t have a spring tool but I found that using a pair of vice grips to remove and replace the springs was easier than using channel locks.

• Technically, I believe the clip is actually called an e-clip. If you have the correct tool for this removing and replacing it will be a lot easier. I did not have the tool. I used an open end wrench that was just the right size to butt up against the two ends of the clip. A light tap with a hammer against the other end of the wrench and it popped right off. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to put it back on.

• Also regarding putting the e-clip back on, at first I could not see the groove that the clip was supposed to slid into. It was below the little plastic piece with the teeth. I used a small flat screw driver inserted into the groove to gently pry it up and had someone gently tap on the plastic piece which pushed it down enough to expose the grove.

• I highly recommend heeding the warning regarding the loosening of the 6 screws holding the snubber. I did not have any trouble with this but there is a 200 lbs spring underneath that you do not want to release. It could injure you and might be hard to put back. Just loosen each screw 1/4 turn at a time until the snubber can be removed.

That's about it. I took me about 4 hours

MAKING NOISE DURING WASH CYCLE

  • Customer: MARK from HEBRON KY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 8 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
REMOVED EXCESS WATER,REMOVED HOSES,TIPED BACK WASHER,REMOVED BELT,REMOVED PULLEY AND BEARING.REMOVED 3 SCREWS AND REPLACED WITH 3 LONGER SCREWS IN THE STATOR,THEN REMOVED 3 SHORTER SCREWS.THEN LOOSEN VERY SLOWLY EACH OF LONGER SCREWS TO RELIEVE PRESSURE FROM THE BRAKE SPRING.ONCE LOOSE,PULLED OUT BRAKE ROTOR.REPLACED WITH NEW PARTS.WORKS LIKE NEW.

shakes, noisey

  • Customer: Dan from Lafayette CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the waterlines. Set the ends in a small pan or bucket to catch the water.Do the same with the drain line.
Keep an old towell handy as water will drain out of the drain pump when you remove the drain hose. Removed the back panel. Use a flat bladed screw driver to pop the top off the two clips in front holding the top down. Lift the top and pull the two screws which holds the front in place. Remove the front and set aside. Underneath, use gloves and the screw driver to remove the six springs by placing the screwdriver through the top hook end about an inch and with both hands lift the spring off. Carefull not to let the blade slip off and bust your knuckles on something,hence the gloves. Lean the machine over and walk the belt off the pulley. Disconnect the small tube in the back left corner from the drum and lift the unit out from the top. Set the drum on it's top and loosen the six screws under the big pulley just enough to pull the snubber out. Replace new snubber, tighten screws. Set drum back in place and reattach springs. Lean unit over and replace belt. Reconnect the small tube, back left corner. Replace the front panel and top. Connect the drain line and replace the rear panel. Connect waterlines and check for leaks. I went ahead and replaced all springs. I recommend replacing the belt while your at it. I'm wishing I would have. It runs like new, gets more water out on the spin cycle and the dryer dosn't take as long to dry the clothes.

loud noise durring spin cycle

  • Customer: Steven from Commerce TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the plate at lower left corner on rear of washer 3 screws and it pops right off after that there are 2 clamps on the hoses attached to the pump I removed those with pliers then I removed the 3 screws holding the pump to the bottom of the washer then pulled the pump through the hole and replaced it with the new pump installed all the screws then layed washer on its side and replaced the belt set it up pluged it in and no more noise sounds better than new. Thank you Part Select for making it an easy painless task to get the parts I needed.

washer making pounding and rocking sound

  • Customer: serenade from charleston SC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Took a screwdriver and pried up the top of washer, then reached in and unscrewed the front two screws that allowed the front to be lifted off.
Removed two screws on lower right side that allowed us to pry open right side of washer. There are six springs along the bottom of washer that keep the tub stable and keep it from bouncing against sides while in spin mode. One of the springs broke and needed to be replaced. Off course it was the one that was in the far back and the hardest to get too. But by prying open the right side it was reachable. The wife pushed against the tub to make the spring stretch a little less but still was too difficult. We took the advice of another home repair guy and put quarters in the spring (about $1.75 worth) to make it stretch out, then it was simple to connect the two ends, remove the quarters and voila....it was done. Screwed theright side back on, but the minimum order on the springs was six and the others seemed fine, we just put the other five inside the washer cabinet, replaced the front panel, reset the clamps on top of the front panel, slammed the top down and we were back in business. The parts including shipping was a little over $10.00. So I am sure we saved at least $140 repair job.

Topside door would not remain in an open position; lid hinges worn out.

  • Customer: James from Oakland MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
The lid hinges are fastened to the top of the washing machine body, near the edge of the lid, with 1 screw each.
To remove the old lid hinges, with the lid clamped in the open position, I needed to gain access to the screw heads from underneath, just inside the edge of the lid opening. To get at these screw heads, I needed to push the inside wash drum toward the screw I wanted to remove and wedge something in the gap created between the body of the washer opening and the drum, directly opposite the screw that I pushed the drum towards. What? This is to hold the drum completely out of the way while getting at the screw. My wedge was the handle of a squeege that just happenned to be nearby, but just about anything will work.
Once the drum was secure, I was able to get at the screw head, which, by the way, is a totally blind operation; you cannot see the screw head, only feel it. I guess we're kind of used to feeling our way around these days. Anyway, I had to repeat the wedging thing to remove the other lid hinge.
The only real problem I had was the original (factory installed) screw heads were hex heads, and I struggled a bit finding the correct size allen wrench to blindly remove the screws. It is a good thing that I also ordered 2 new screws along with the new lid hinges because the new screws have phillips heads. Much easier to work with, even though they were a little pricey. The old hex head screws were kind of worn and it would have been a cursing operation to try to reuse them.
Once the old hinges were off, I removed the lid, installed the new hinges on the lid and clamped the lid in place in the open position, while I screwed the new hinges on (wedging the drum out of the way like before). NOTE: It might be a good idea to line the wash drum with newspaper in case a screw slips out and finds its way into one the holes in the drum; lost forever. Anyway, this may sound like alot, but it really isn't. My wife didn't even comment on how the lid isn't smashing down on her any more. That's OK, I'm grateful I'm not the one doing laundry!

The washing machine was losing grease into the drum and on our clothes

  • Customer: Kevin from Lincoln NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 28 of 75 people found this instruction helpful
Opened the top of the washing machine, removed the two screws and the front cover removed the agitater, drum and outer tub. replaced the bearing and seals and reassembled.
All Instructions for the CAV2000AWW
76-90 of 488