Models > CAV2000AWW > Instructions

CAV2000AWW Magic Chef Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for CAV2000AWW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the CAV2000AWW
31-45 of 488
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Machine was very noisy, tub spun slowly when loaded & lid switch actuator was broken. Drive belt had very little tension on it.

  • Customer: Larry from Smithville MO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 23 of 34 people found this instruction helpful
Remove the access panel at the back of the machine. Locate the Motor Pivot Spring. It is about the same diameter as a coat hanger and is attached to the motor and the motor base. I was able to remove the old spring and install the new spring with my fingers. When removing the old spring, remove the motor end first, then the motor base end. When installing the new spring, attach the motor base end first, then the motor end.

No water entering,Timer making weird noises.

  • Customer: John from Dover PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 18 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
1st disconnect the power , turn the Water valve off thenRemove the 6 screws holding the Timer console and lay it forward on the Washer.Unplug the Timer power connector. Using the needle nose pliers grab the green shaft @ the back of the Timer and pull it back and this will release the Knob, then pull the Indicator Dial off the shaft. You can now remove the bad Timer and replace it with the new Timer (snap it in place). Push the indicator dial back on the shaft (look @ the configuration,it'll only go back one way, do not force) then line the knob up( there is a rectangular shaped hole inside the knob and it has to go into the rectangular shape on the shaft). Now hold the knob tightly against the timer and go to the back of the timer and push the green shaft forward till you hear it click into the knob (this step is important) if it doesn't lock it can vibrate loose and your washer will not work properly. Put the parts back in place, plug it in, turn the water on and it should be ready to go.I also wanted to add that Maytag Technical support is worthless and useless,I'm thankful I found PartsSelect on the Internet and the Users who shared their repair stories which enabled me to make this repair. I also want to say that Maytag mastered the Art of having Timers made that only last a little past there Warranty Period, 5 year warranty, died at 5 years and 3 months.

Clothes were too damp after spin cycle finished.

  • Customer: Brian from South Holland IL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 19 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged and removed the drain and supply hoses from the back; some water will run out so be ready for that. I laid the machine down on two 2x4s to keep from crushing the supply and drain nipples. Just follow the instructions included with the parts, all steps are straight forward accept for two things: 1. they talk about pulling down on the transmission shaft to slip on the retaining clip. With only the end of the shaft sticking out there isn't much to grab on to. I found by using a thin blade scraper inserted into the retaining clip groove, prying downward on the shaft I could then get a regular screwdriver blade into the same groove and expose the entire groove and slip on the clip. 2. they talk about "Adjusting Brake Disengagement" after studying this for a while it just refers to which thickness of thrust washer to use. After trying both the .062 and .032 I found that only the .032 would allow the retaining clip to engage. Rechecking the brake disengagement, everthing seemed to work fine. The machine now has a stronger spin cycle and even bath towels are ready for drying after the normal spin.

Loud noise during the spin cycle

  • Customer: John M from Saint Paul IN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 25 of 43 people found this instruction helpful
Repair was made by viewing on line video and owners manual. Once the machine was apart, the brake spring was the only tricky patr. Under a lot of pressure so be cautious. old bearing was removed and the new bearing installed. Machine reassembled. no issues.Thanks !!!

terrible screeching during agitation after having washer only 3 months

  • Customer: stephen from soddy daisy TN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 19 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
First I disconnected the hoses and moved washer out to a larger area. Washer had to be completely torn down. Took front cover and casing off. Took all electrical and plumbing fixtures out. Removed the drum hold-down springs. Removed the drive belt. Inverted the drum/agitator section. Removed the drive pulley and bearing assembly. Removed the brake snubber. Removed the brake shoe. Reinstalled new parts. Put washer back together. It now works great.

Water pump failed and was making loud screeching noises. Eventually, it bound up stopping the washer.

  • Customer: Mark from Port Matilda PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 18 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
I unplugged the electric power cord and disconnected the two water hoses and the drain line from the wall. It was messy as water leaked from the disconnected hoses. I tilted the washer forward and leaned it against a bench for support. This exposed the bottom of the washer from the back. I removed the v-belt from the three pulleys. The motor mount was spring loaded making it easy to remove the v-belt from this pulley first. After removing the v-belt, I then removed the 4 screws to the small plate on the back of the washer to gain access to the water pump. I then removed the two water hoses from the water pump using vice grips to squeeze the clamps and slide them off of the hoses toward the water pump. After removing the two hoses (a little messy again), I removed the water pump by using a socket ratchet to loosen the four bolts. I replaced the water pump with the new pump and then reassembled everything in reverse order.

slipping drive belt

  • Customer: stephen from redondo beach CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 17 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
Tipped machine 45-degrees to reveal belt on bottom of machine. Used screwdriver to remove old belt which looked fine. Installed new belt (which arrived from PartSelect within 2-days) but it felt loose. Tried machine anyway and it works just fine. Easiest repair ever. Thanks, PartSelect!

WASH CYCLE WOULD NOT START - NO WATER WOULD FLOW

  • Customer: daniel from cerritos CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 16 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
i took pictures at different steps in case i forgot how it was assembled.
unplugged the power, turned off the water hoses, unplugged the hoses, pulled the washer out, took of the access panel in the lower left hand corner, took of two tec screws that hold the water valve in place, removed the four wires that were attached to the water valve, removed the water hose attached to the water valve, reattached everything to the new water valve. The only difficulty is the access panel is a bit small

Washing machine sqeeling to a stop after spin cycle

  • Customer: William from Middletown OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 16 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
By sliding the machine out away from the wall I tipped it back so that it set against the wall on an angle enough for me to work on the bottom. I removed the belt and drive pully. The brake stator can be removed from the bottom if drum is centered. The brake is under pressure from a big spring in there that applies the brake. Replacing three of its mounting screws with longer ones (10-24 x 2) allows you to let pressure off of the brake spring slowly. Replaced brake rotor and stator and compressed spring with long screws as in removal. Replaced all original screws to hold in place. Installed pulley and belt. Works like brand new, all for about $30. I bought the snubber also but did not realize that this is not part of the brake. I little confusing on the parts drawing.

Washer leaked entire load of water on the floor.

  • Customer: Kevin from Wilton CT
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set
  • 15 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
These gaskets and seals were relatively easy to get to. I replaced all 3. Put machine back together, but washer still leaked. I ended up having to remove more components down along the center shaft towards the transmission. I found that the "tub seal" was worn out. I also replaced the "seal nut assembly" and "O-ring" while I was at it. The seal nut and tub seal were more difficult to remove without the proper tool, but a bigger rubber mallet and strategically placed pliers were enough to break them loose. Once all parts showed up the washer went back together easily and it is now leak-free.

Intermittent problem with lid switch, no high speed spin/pump out

  • Customer: Linda from La Porte IN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 18 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
Disconnect power, unsnap and raise machine top cover w/lid, remove old switch - two screws under lid, taking care to not drop loose actuator lever into machine. Remove control panel back and disconnect switch wire connector. Intall new switch, taking care to not drop loose actuator lever into machine, connect switch wires inside control panel. Replace panel cover and lower machine top cover w/lid and snap into place, reconnect power, verify operation...

Water overflowed from tub onto floor

  • Customer: Dan from Lombard IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 15 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
The problem was not in the switch but in the plastic hose from the tub to the switch. The hose was cracked and air/water leaked which therefore didn't activate the switch. I removed the top back cover to access the switch and released the hood of the machine, like a car, using a thin scaper to depress the spring loaded retaining clips. The hose was cracked at the tub just above the retainig clip. I bought new hosing at a local hardware store and replaced the switch to omit both of them as a future problem. Sell the tube with the switch as a package deal? Damage to tube may occur from violent, out of balance, spinning tub on spin cycle.

washer wouldn't spin

  • Customer: Elmer from Fort Campbell KY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 15 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
I took out all the tubs and the apparatus holding the gear and thrust bearing assembly. I used a homemade tool (long zipties) to pull the springs off and to put them back on. After that I just replaced the thrust bearing with the new kit and put everything back together.

Washer made grinding noise then stopped working.

  • Customer: David from Honesdale PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 14 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
First I tipped the washing machine onto its front. I removed the belt on the bottom of the machine. Then I removed the screws that held the cover in place on the back of the machine. Next I removed the two hoses that were connected to the vertical pump using pliers to pinch the clamps. I then removed three screws that held the vertical pump in place. I took the new verticle pump with pulley and mounted it to the washer and putting the washer machine back together using the previous steps in reverse order.

broken spring in bottom of washing machine

  • Customer: Mike from Rochester MN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 13 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Opened the front panel by using a flathead screwdriver (to pop the top lid up) and socket wrench (to loosen the front panel off). I then had to reach in and replace the missing/broken suspension spring. The spring was very difficult to extend so I used coins to lodge into the spring to elongate it. After the spring coils were loaded and held apart with coins (nickels and quarters) the spring could be installed using a pliers for leverage. The washer doesn't make the loud banging noise anymore!
All Instructions for the CAV2000AWW
31-45 of 488