C316 Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

Opened the back of the cooktop and found upper right element control switch burned. I removed the retaining screws and wires and spent two weeks chasing the switch at a local dealer. Found exactly what I needed at PartSelect.com and paid less even with shipping than at the local. Installed the switch with original screws and presto!! it worked.

Remove 4 screws that holds down panel;removed dial;removed screw that held switch to panel. Took off wire one at a time ann put on corresponding lug. Repeated above in reverse.

Broke both crimp on washers. Drilled two appropriate holes in a dowell rod, used these holes to hold the new crimp on washers. Then drove the washers onto the switch's built in pegs.

Looked up schematic. Removed 3 screws holding cover. after I shut power off of course. Took off knob. Oriented new control to the one on panel. Disconnected each wire one at at time and immediately attached it to the new control for each wire. Removed screws holding old control and inserted and screwed to the new control and put the knob back on. Put the cover back on. Worked fine. Probably should replace the others as they don't turn as easily as the new one. Probably will spray some contact cleaner which will give me a few more years.

We unplugged the range from the wall first so as not to get electrocuted. We removed the face of the control panel by removing the screws and 2 hex nuts underneath that hold it in place, and removed the trim. Then we disconnected the malfunctioning control switch, taking note of what order the wires go in. Hooked the new switch up and popped it through the face of the control panel. We then put the trim back, and reattached the control panel with the screws. Very easy!!

First the power to the cooktop was turned off. Two screws were removed to be able to lift the fan switch holder. The old switch was removed easly because it fell apart. The nuts holding the part in broke as they were removed so they could not be reused. The new switch was put in place however the nuts were too small. I don't know what they were supposed to fit but not these screws. The part was super glued in place. It works perfectly.

Un screwed the two screws in the downdraft section enough to release the unit that holds the surface burner controls.Then removed the control nob, unscrewed the two screws that holds the switch in the unit, removed the wires, making sure the color of the wires were placed on the same contact point. Put it back together and it worked
fine.Of course I did shut off the power before starting any of the above

Disconnect power cord first. I remove the air fan cover to get to the two screws which hold the fan switch and burner knobs. Remove burner knobs and and remove switch cover, disconnect wires to fan switch. Pry spring nuts off with screwdriver to get switch off. Pay attention to which way switch goes on so that it turns on in the right direction. Install spring nuts (they may look too small but they're not) using a deep small socket the size of the spring nuts tap the the socket with a small hammer and the nuts will be locked in place. Put everything back in place and your done.

The door came off easily after I removed the two hinge covers that are attached to the oven. Taking the door off can be done with one person but ideally two.

The new parts fit in perfectly and the hinge pin used for shipping comes out easiest with a pair or wire cutters (you do not cut it just grab it and pull).

After that, re-assemble the door and drop in place. It was a snap.

FYI...the shipping was ultra fast and the price was great.

No issues whatsover with the entire process.

Removed top and front panel

2 screws to remove
disconnect 220 v power
use long nose pliers to transfer 5 female spade terminals
use nut driver to r@r shaft nut
replace panel with 2 screws
Turn on power and test!---OK!

Ok, however, from what I read on the internet those who wrote down their advice and experience regarding this particular part, explained that the push nuts were too small to accomodate the studs. I too had the same problem, and therefore had to get other ones at the local hardware store. Apparently this is inherently a commmon problem. You need to provide push nuts with a slightly larger diameter, so they can be pushed down the studs/pegs.

Really easy ...followed advice posted from others with same problem. Before anything disconnect the power at the breakers and use a voltage detector to verify there is NO POWER!!!! Only need to remove the two phillips screws on the four controller panel, Slide panel away from you to access the controllers. Match wire/connector for connector from the old to new controller. Reassemble, restore power .. Happy wife!!!. She has been on my case to fix this thing for several years.

I removed two screws that held the switch plate together. Then I removed two screws that held the faulty switch to the swtich plate. I then unpluged one wire at a time from the old switch and pluged it into the new switch. Reattached the switch to the switch plate and then reattached the switch plate to the stovetop. Bingo! Everything worked beautifully. It was so easy and I saved ~ $100.00 by doing it myself, as opposed to a quote that I got from a local repairman.

I remove fore screwsfrom the front panel. Then remove two screws to remove the switch and removed the wire plugs then put everything back together again.