C221-C Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

changed out switch

Turned off the power at the circuit breaker panel. Removed the control knobs from each switch and the four palnuts under each knob. Removed the two screws inside the vent well that hold the escutcheon in place. Pulled each switch up as much as possible to expose the wires attached underneath to each switch blade. Remoced each wire and replaced them on the new switch. Same procedure for all four switches. Reassembled in reverse order. Turned on power and all four burners lit up and were regulated as if new. I saved $244.00 doing the repair myself.

Removed two screws holding 4-switch panel, drew a simple diagram to assure placement of wires on correct terminals, removed and replaced switch.

Switch works fine, but original knob does not fit shaft of replacement switch. Will try to order new knob, but it probably won't match the old knobs, so range will have one new knob & three old ones. I wish the order page noted that new knobs must be ordered to fit the new style shaft.

Shut off the breaker! Removed down draft grill. Removed two phillips head screws and lifited switch plate out. Removed switches (2) and made wiring diagram as I went. Looked up Jenn-Air on line and ordered parts. Lost wirihng diagram in the process but still had two switches wired . Replaced all four switches. Everything working great. However while I was waiting on switches to arrive, somebody at the house was fooling with the switch plate and broke the on red indicater lens so now I'm ordering that. Oh well....

First pulled the two screws holding the control with the switches. Then I unscrewed the nut holding the 6" burner switch and disconnected the wires on the switch and replaced the switch with the new one. Replaced the control unit in the range top and tested the repair.

Got a no-name tailor-it-yourself replacement switch from a San Jose, CA appliance parts store; but the switch was so cheaply made that it fell apart when I tested it.

Got a RobertShaw part from PartSelect and now the burner works perfectly.

I first had to purchase the replacement motor which was quoted from a high of $236 to a low at graingers of$100. 00. The counterman at graingers removed the blower fan from the motor for me with a special long handled allen key. I then degreased and cleaned the blower fan. I had to cut off the screws on the motor and replace the 3 motor isolators and the urethane foam around the motor. I had to thread the 3 wires from the new motor through the bx cable from the old motor and reattach the fan to the motor. Anyone wanting more detailed informatioin may contact me at:mablume@optonline. Net

The Model number could no longer be read clearly on the stove electric grill with a down draft vent system, so all I had was the size and looks of the old grease/air filter. I was very happy to come across Parts Select by way of an amazon.com search. Their web site's design and the parts pictures with detailed descriptions made it easy to find exactly what I needed. The grease filter fit perfectly in no time. I have successfully used my cooking grill again.

The lids are fastened to the underside of the unit by rivets....3 to each lid.
I used a cordless drill and small drill bit to drill through the rivets to remove the old lids and remains of the rivets.
The new lids are easily fastened back using a rivet gun ( about $20 in Lowes) using small 1/8th aluminum rivets.
No real problems.
1 thing to note is that the drill bit will pass through the old rivet by about 1/4 inch before it comes up against the upper level of the BBQ floor so do not drill any deeper.The aluminum rivets are easy to drill through and you will easily feel when the rivet is drilled through.

Important: Down load the helpful assembly diagram for the fan motor and study it for a few minutes. It's very straight forward. Also a good idea is to remove the bottom panel which comes off easy before starting.

My only problem was removing the existing blower/fan wheel without damaging it once I had the assembly on the work bench. It was rusted on tight and managed to remove after a few tries using penetrating oil. The wheel is in stock and I'd suggest buying a new one along with the new motor if I had to do the job again.

Bottom line; the fan motor fit perfect but did have to re-use part of the old existing electric pig tail because the motor does not come with the factory type motor terminal connectors. By using three twist on wire connectors was back in business. The down draft vent works like new.

Wife is happy...

Wade

Simply pulled the old ones off and pressed on the new control knobs. It took less than 10 minutes, saved us from replazcing an otherwise nice looking range top, and made a big deposit in my "Honey do" account. I just wish they still sold the clock and timer units to fit this stove. Oh and yes, the prices were very reasonable too. Thank You Brad Harris, Illinois

blower wheel was caked with dried grease clumps; replaced blower wheel, urethan foam and 3 motor isolators; blower/fan no longer vibrating cooktop.

removed two screws thenpulled element up unpluged wires

I first removed power from the stove at the breaker panel. Next, I used the assembly diagrams provided by the parts select website to determine how to open up the stove panel. I opened the oven door to access the four screws holding the front panel holding the knobs. I removed the screws and was able to tilt up the front panel to allow access to the four burner switches. It was easy to swap out the wires on the old defective switch to the new replacement switches. I replaced both defective switches in 15 minutes and tiled the front panel back down into its normal position and put the four screws back into the panel to secure it. Then I turned on the breaker and did a check to see that the parts I replaced were working properly. They were and the total repair time was around 30 minutes without rushing at all.

We turned off the breaker and removed the screws holding the control panel in place. They are behind in the exhaust area.

The control unit was lifted up to reveal all of the wires and the switches. Using pliers I pulled off the connectors keeping up with which wire was from which connector. The switch then dropped out and the new one went in and wires were reconnected.

It was not difficult. Only challenges were that it was very dense and hard to get at the wires and you had to be careful to keep up with the wire locations.

Well worth the time...I can do something other than boil water on that burner!!