BVLR333EV0WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

i placed the knob on and voila it worked again. the knob was a bit pricey with shipping almost 25.00 but the dryer is 12 years or more old and it is the first repair i had to make so i am very pleased with the dryer and the new knob! the on line photos made it very easy to make sure i was ordering the correct knob with all the views. keep up the good work! very satisfied!

Pulled old lint filter frame out and replaced with new one, very simple. works like new.

i removed two screws and lifted the top up on it hinges. the heating coil was readily accessible. luckly one of the thrmostats fell apart.
partsselect was great. exploded diagrams let me locate and order the replcement easily.

thanks to partsselect i can keep my 16 year old dryer forever.

I repaired it by logging on to parts select website and found the part, waited for about a week or so and opened up the box. I glanced at it and found out that wow it's the exact match except new. Unbelievable and in excitement I went to my laundry room and opened up the dryer and popped that baby right in! Thanks Parts Select

It was very easy. Pop out old, connect new wires and done! Can't say enough as to how fast and easy getting the part from this company was. Ordered the part later in the day one night and on the second day the part was there. Outstanding service.

Took to many parts off to find out only needed to remove four front screws under the lid. I lifted the lid and found the thermostat and replaced same dryer now works great again at normal temps.

I discovered that the High Limit Thermo was in place, but had been bypassed years ago. After lifting the top up, I finally found the HLT on the top left side in the back. I removed it, then put the new one in with its 2 screws. I put new lugs on its wires and put them back on. The dryer tested GOOD. No more potential Bar-B-Que! I did print a picture of the wiring diagrams that were on the back of the unit. This gave me the color code of the wires, where they were to be found, and what they did. This also helped. This GE Dryer is at least 26 years old! Newer Dryers in the Videos actually require more work removing things to get to the Thermostat. When I finally found it, the job went quick.

Easy repair, but did take a little longer than anticipated due to the extra cleaning that I did while the dryer was disassembled (highly recommend). First, unplug the power cord. Then, open the door, and locate the two screws in the upper corners, and remove. This will allow you to remove the top cover. Be careful and work the top panel up and down to loosen the control panel tabs, and set aside top panel. Next, remove the two screws located near the top on the inside of the front panel. Removing these two screws will allow you to lean the front panel forward, lift up, releasing the tabs holding the bottom of the panel. Be careful when you pull the front panel from the dryer as you will need to lift the drum off of the front bearing which is attached to the front panel as it is removed. You will also need to use your needle nose pliers to remove the wires prior to setting the panel aside. The wires are straight forward and power the light at the top, and the safety door switch. I always take a picture with my phone's camera just to validate when I re-connect them. Reaching underneath the drum you will be able to feel the belt and belt tensioner pulley. With both hands under the drum, use one hand to push the pulley to the right, releasing tension on the belt. Move the belt out of the groove, and let it hang freely. Now from the top of the drum, bump the drum to loosen, and remove from the cabinet. It is a tight fit, so you will need to spread the sides slightly in order to remove the drum. Next, remove the 3 screws holding the heat diffuser in the rear of the drum in order to remove the rear drum bearing. (Tip: It would be nice to have a helper hold the new drum bearing in place when starting the screws, and it also helped to tighten each a little at a time to keep the new bearing flat as it was drawn up next to the drum.) Tighten the screws holding the new bearing in place. Next, remove the 4 small screws holding the heating element housing to the rear of the dryer. (Tip: Rather than disconnecting the wires, I used a bent coat hanger to hold the housing while I removed the bearing retainer and clip from the rear of the housing.) Remove the 4 screws holding the bearing retainer and clip, and replace with you new part, paying close attention to the clip's position, and tighten. Replace the housing to the rear of the dryer. (Tip: Now is a good time to familiarize yourself with the belt and tensioner pulley for reassembly. Also, it may be a good idea to look at your belt, and replace as needed.) Next, reinstall the drum and insert the new bearing shaft into the new bearing housing. Using both hands again, reach underneath the drum, locate the tensioner pulley, and belt. Push the tensioner pulley over to the right, and move belt over the pulley on the motor, and behind the tensioner pulley. The belt should be tight. If not, inspect to ensure that the belt is over the motor pulley, and the tensioner pulley. Next step is to reinstall the front panel. I also spent the extra money and replaced the front drum bearing, and slides. Please note that the green slides are on top, and the white slides are on the bottom. Lift the panel over the tabs, lean forward while lifting the tub, resting the tub on the front bearing. Reinstall two screws in the upper corners, and tighten the front panel back in place. Now is a good time to turn the drum to ensure that the belt is in place, and that the drum turns correctly. (Tip: If your dryer is equipped with a light, you may also want to replace the bulb in the front panel (if needed) prior to attaching the front panel.) Reinstall the top panel by aligning the tabs in the control panel with the top panel, being careful not to bend the tabs. Next, open the front door and use the 2 long screws to reattach the top panel to the front panel. Plug in power cord.

first I removed the screws with the nutdriver at the bottom of the dryer at the back..then I could see the belt was broken...next I took off the 2 nuts at the back that hold the top on ..then opened the dryer front door and unscrewd the 4 screws holding the top on....then I lifted the top up and to the side...then all I had to do was take out 2 screws one on each side of dryer front and the the front was open enough that I could slide the new belt on dryer..then screwed the front back on...then placed the top on and went to the back of dryer and put belt on pulley using the diagram I found in the instructions inside the dryer top...really a lot easier than it sounds...easy fix saved me from buying another dryer

Easy. Take old one out, put new one in.

My wife was attempting to start a load of laundry when the start knob came off in her hand. I figured the inside of the knob had broken loose and the stem from the rotary start switch would be sticking out, well the stem had broken off flush and the knob was fine. After ordering a replacement, I jerry rigged the broken one with a large screw driven into it and put it back in place, worked great, just had to put a screwdriver into the screw and turn it to get the dryer to start. I felt it was fine to stay that way but the wife insisted we install the new one to put the knob back in place. The new switch arrived very quickly and went into without a problem, just four screws to remove the panel, two wire connections and was working again.

I followed instructions provided by other users of this site. Two screws removed allowed the top to be raised. Two more screws allowed the front to be removed and swung to the side. I removed the felt, and replaced it, after looking which way the bevelled edge faced. The teflon drum slide bearings were simple to replace. The front drum bearing was a little difficult to remove, but I just kept prying with a flathead screwdriver and it eventually began to pop off. I vacuumed and removed a ton of lint from everywhere I could get at, and the dryer now runs quieter with no more clothing getting hung up inside.

First read very helpful reviews on PartSelect from:
Summit Health and Fitness From Flagstaff AZ
and Michael From Warwick RI

The parts diagram on PartSelect is good as an overview. Having two people makes a big difference detaching and re-attaching the drum.

Knowing how to get the lid and front door off each specific model is important. That's where the stories mentioned above were essential. After that, many generic dryer repair stories will work.

I recommend changing all wearable parts while you are in there. I wish I had ordered some new felt, but I did rear bearing, slides, and belt even though the belt probably was good to go.

PartSelect shipped from Windsor Locks, CT. The parts were nearly exact replacements. Some fasteners were different, so I used the old ones and had the tap the sheet metal on the retainer with the fasteners before installing it.

Really glad to have stumbled on this site via Google.

Open door,remove two screws at top,push top up unroll it is straight up,remove two wires for the door switch,remove the two sheet metal screws ,pull up on the complete front asembly then out,hold drum when doing this.then remove trim ring most likely you will need to break it because it's very hard to remove.replace ring and bearing slides

Top is hinged in back, removing the 4 screws over the door under the top allowed the top to open. Removing the 2 screws near the top of the door panel allowed it's removal. Marked and disconnected wiring. Lifted drum through top. New bearing housing required 3 mounting holes to be tapped to 10-24. Installed bearing and backing shims with old hardened allen head mounting screws inside drum while wife held bearing in back of drum. Furnished 3- 10-24 lock nuts to lock mounting screws in place from their back side. Reinserted drum through dryer top with belt on drum. Hardest part was getting the belt on motor pulley while holding the idler in it's correct position due to small access holes at the very bottom in rear panel. Works just fine again.