Models > BDNS24A9-RA > Instructions

BDNS24A9-RA (4N49B) Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for BDNS24A9-RA parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the BDNS24A9-RA
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lights did not work

  • Customer: Daniel from rochester hils MI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
pulled out old socket and replaced supposed to be a duel socket but no longer exists

Replaced refrigerator light assbly

  • Customer: Charles from Stone Mountain GA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
replacement was relative easy. The problem came with wire connector that had to be cut, stripped and crimped. The crimping was the dificult part. the connector was a problem to crimp.

dual light socket in fridge shorted out

  • Customer: Kimberly from Blue Springs MO
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
took old socket out, ordered replacement part, dual socket no longer available. Turn off power to appliance, attach new single light socket, screw light socket and light socket holder back into place. Turned on power and it worked. No instructions included in packet, attached wrong first time, blew fuse, attached socket a different way, and it worked.

No leveling legs

  • Customer: stephen from montgomery NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
Ordered the leveling bolts, very fast shipping, parts correct as shown. Purchased a condo by the shore, frige had no levelers, they went in smoothly & was done in no time.
Steve

Renters removed leveling legs from refrigerator. I don't know why!

  • Customer: Don from Frankfort KY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
I tilted the unit back enough to scew the new legs into the threaded holes.

Light Bulb blew out in fridge

  • Customer: Thomas from Augusta GA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 0 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
Screw bulb in and place cover over bulb.

Light socket not working

  • Customer: Romeo from Edinburg TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Pull out plastic cover #13of refrigerator part discription (temp. control and light socket), snap out old light socket and replaced with new light socket. light is now working.

light socket in fridge corroded, kills light bulbs

  • Customer: Lynn from Phoenix AZ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
The old light fixture and socket were easily removed. This was done with the power connected, but I already knew the switch didn't need to be handled. The solderless connectors are all insulated, so I just had to be careful. The new socket would not accept the connector for the "hot" (red) wire in the fridge, due to a design change. This is, of course, why you furnished a loose 3/16 inch crimpon connector. Rather than cutting the red wire (remember, the power is still connected), I obtained an insulated 3/16 connector of the opposite gender, and a short piece of red-insulated wire from an old fluorescent tube ballast, and made a jumper. The connector I provided (male) did not fit tightly in the original fridge connector, so I put a layer of resin-core solder on my male connector. You need tight connections. If the solder layer is too thick, it's easy to file down. Make sure to heat the solder sufficiently that the solidified solder is shiny and not dull gray. I used a 100-watt gun. 20 watts would probably work too. DO NOT USE ACID-CORE SOLDER OR FLUX ON ELECTRICAL WORK! I knew the switch was good, because I had checked for voltage at the socket terminals using my voltmeter, before I ordered the socket. It read 120 volts every time the door switch was open, and zero volts every time the door switch was pushed closed. A simple voltage tester would work here, too. Be very careful if you do this test or this repair with the power connected to the fridge; there is considerable potential to find yourself touching 120 volts with one hand while your other hand is touching a perfect "ground". There doesn't seem to be any choice if you want to test the switch. You do have a choice with the socket replacement - - the jumper described above. If you're not going to use the jumper approach, cut the power! If you are going to make a jumper and are not comfortable working on a "live" circuit, cut the power.
All Instructions for the BDNS24A9-RA
1-8 of 8