BA1910 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Removed two screws , two more on the valve, loosened the hose clamp. Reassembled the same way

Remove front cover lower screws(2) with Phillips screwdriver. Remove Upperlid Bolts (left & right side) under top cover , Flip lid Back to access siphon break (rear right corner) Remove drain hose clamp, Remove clamp at bottom of siphon break. Remove (4) screws rear of washer around drain hose elbow. Remove siphon break, reinstall in reverse order. (Make Sure new siphon break washer is installed in siphon break.

Very easy as the water inlet valve is located on the back of the washer and it was a simple matter of shutting off the water, undoing water hoses, undoing water inlet valve which didn't even need to remove the back side of the washer and connecting the new part, water hoses and turning water back on. The hardest part was tipping the washer, my sits on top of the cold air return, and balancing on a milk crate. Very pleased with being able to do my own repair.

I followed the online installation video and it worked perfectly. I am a fan of this site and would recommend it to anyone .

With the help of my 3 year old grandson, we removed the inlet hoses and inlet panel. The water inlet valve replacement was a perfect fit. All connections conformed to the original part. I had reviewed a video at the time of order, so was familiar with the process by the time the part arrived. The website was very helpful in determination of what was needed to fix the washer problem. Shipping was fast and tracking the package provided my schedule. I will utilize this site in the future.

Maytag made this easy. The water value was mounted to a plate on the back of the washer removed one screw, pulled the plate from the washer, removed the valve, reconnected the electrical connections and outlet hose, re inserted the plate, attached with screw and tested. 30 minutes tops and I hwve never done this before. Thanks to partsselect and others for recomenning the correct repair. Others had suggestjng the timer device ($180 +) for the parts. OUCH !!!!!

just like the vidio, only a had to remove the back panel to replace the valve. but we ., or should say my mother has a working wacher now,thank you for your help,

ordered the part and it was easy to change.it worked great! Thanks

Unplugged AC cord. Removed hot and cold supply hoses. Removed front cover (2 Phillips screws near bottom). Raised lid, and removed fastening screw for injector tube. Removed retaining screws for inlet valve mounting plate. Positioned mounting plate partially inside rear of machine and removed (4) wires for solenoid connections. Re-positioned mounting plate slightly outside machine and removed valve mounting screws and old valve. Attached new valve (no modification to valve needed for my machine), and worked backwards through the steps listed above.

Went on line an watch video that described the problem. Order the part and received it overnight. Went back online to your website and watched the video on how to do the repair. Followed the suggestions in the video and finished the repair in about 30 minutes. Really appreciate the help your company give me and have bookmarked your site for future use.

very simple to repair, three screws and disconnecting water supply pulling four wires then reverse steps and done, time spent less than 15 minutes.

My husband figured out what the problem was and I looked for the part. It was easy to find on your web-site, and the picture was spot on! I ordered it and had the part in 2 days. The repair took 15 minutes or less, and my washer is as good as new. Thank you PartSelect for being there when we needed. I will recommend this to everyone.

Had to remove front of washer to get to the back of the washer to make repair.

installation was difficult because the "universal" valve was a different size than the original. The solenoids were taller on the replacement valve, could not use the mounting bracket because the unit could not fit in the confined space. I also don't know why the water outlet nipple had to be smaller on the new assembly, requiring the use of a Rube Goldberg piece of tubing.

Basically the instructional video video for replacing the valve was great, but pretty obvious. Unplugged the machine. Shut off the water and disconnected the hoses (if the shutoffs are old you might need a pipe wrench or large pliers to get them completely shut off). I kept an old towel on the floor to sop up drippage. Removed the screw that holds the plate, then the two that hold the valve, all with 1/4 inch socket driver. Remove wires, loosen hose clamp on inlet hose but make sure it won't fall down into the machine. The video showed how to rotate the contacts so that they were aimed the same as on my old valve - pry up on the frame with a screwdriver and rotate until it clicks into the other slot. Just reverse the procedure with the new valve - orange and white wires to top (hot) valve, blue and white to cold. 15-20 minutes if all goes well. Note, the plate and valve attachment screws may not all be the same length even though they look the same. My problems were due to the very old washing machine. The clamp for the inlet hose was an old type that could not be loosened and had to be torn apart, luckily I had a modern 1/2 inch clamp on hand to replace it with. I had to bend the plate a little to get the attachment screw hole to line up with the hole in the washer. Also the connecting hose washers were too old and had to be replaced. I would suggest replacing these in any case and using a large pliers to get them snugly tightened.