B59FN-5TVW Magic Chef Range - Instructions

Our oven quit working again. I called the repair(dealer) man and he said we needed a new control panel. It would cost $180.00 and labor would be $60. The total repair would be $240.00. We considered just purchasing a new one. It is a slide-in range and they start at about $1500. So I began looking for a control panel on line. I found your web site and entered what was wrong with the oven. Your site suggested we try replacing the oven sensor. There was a video that showed how simple the repair was. We ordered the part. It came quickly and I immediately made the repair (about 10 min). I was very disappointed that it did not work. I went back to you web site and tried the next option. It was a terminal block for only $20.00. I didn't even know what a terminal block was, what it looked like or where on the range to find it. But I went again to your video and I learned quickly what to do. I ordered the part and it came in two days. I made the repair in about 15 min. My wife was very happy that the repair worked. Our total cost was about $80. The $240 quote would not have fixed the oven anyway. The repairman was wrong. I was very happy with the results and the money we saved.. Good Job PartSelect and thanks.

very easy

ordered new broiler pan

I slide the oven out from the counter and unpluged it. I removed all the oven racks. I then removed the machine screws that held the sheet metal that covered the back of the unit. This made it a lot easier to disconnect the long oven sensor wire and put the wire through the insulation. I removed the two screws on the inside of the oven that held the sensor onto the inside rear wall of the oven. The old sensor did not test too bad but the temperature is reaching the set temperature. I still had to adjust the oven temp up ten degrees using the control panel. I have learned that it takes a few cycles of the element going off and on during the warming to reach the desired set temperature. One more issue is that the buzzer goes off signaling that the set temperature has been reached when it has not. When I set it for 350 F the buzzerr goes off at 280 F and I have a good oven thermometer. I own three oven thermometers and they all read the same. We use to have nothing but Maytag appliances but no more. We have had issues with Maytag front loading washers and ranges. PartSelect is great. Good prices and fast delivery.

I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.

Installed new thermostat. Went well. Now the oven comes on and it takes 2.5 hours to come up to 250 degrees. Help!

removed old and installed new

Got a bent metal coathook to temporarily release the oven door, removed the screws from the old probe, inserted the new one, and hooked it up, using the one of the plug adapters provided. Problem solved! The oven door latch was now disengaged, the oven would now accept temperature inputs, and the rear cooling fan (which wouldn't shut off) now turned off. That's a lot of things working better for less than $50!

Received the part the day after ordering. Appreciated the quick service and repair took less than a minute.

Watched the video and things went exactly as planned. Love this website will use them again when I need a repair.

Unplug stove from outlet!! Removed screws (Phillips head) from prior element and pulled out enough to slip of the red and white wires. Keep in mind which side which is on and take old element out of oven. Put new element in and attach wires back on the same sides. Push back in and use screwdriver (Phillips head) to lift insulation to push wires and element prongs back. Put screws back in, close oven door and plug stove back in. Tested and works great!

removed 2 screws in probe and pulled it out.had to take back off as wire was tangled from factory and couldn't do quick repair

The oven did not auto clean. Problem was the sensor stopped working. Tried to repair from the front but could not get the connector through the hole. Removed the rear panel and found the connector had melted. Could not find a new wireing harnes on line, so I cut the wires on the stove and the new sensor coupling. Spliced the wires togather. The oven cooks fine, I have not tried the cleaning cycle yet.

Parts package contained no instructions. Found all instructions on internet. I used Phillips head to remove two screws on anchor plate of Long Oven Sensor. Located at upper left, back corner of oven; access to screws is not simple/easy. Screws back out w/o difficulty. Pull/extract sensor harness through hole[back of oven] which required pushing aside insulation. The harness barely fits thru hole in oven back metal wall; I recommend using needle nose pliers ( which I ended up doing ) for ease of extraction. Disconnect harness plastic interlok clips. Perfect reconnection of new clip harness with ease. Reverse procedure to complete installation/repair. Done in just over 35 minutes due to wrestling with harness extraction through minimal hole opening. Failure occurred on Thanksgiving Day with 22lbs turkey in oven. Top of turkey contacted sensor tip which eventually caused sensor fault; result was scorched upper breast and oven shut down [safety by design]. Cook top was still operative; clock and all readings on digital control panel ceased. With new 'long oven sensor' installed - good as new. Will be sure to buy turkey(s) under 20lbs in future. Jim in Seattle

Removed the back of the stove, un-pluged the sensor wires, removed the sensor from inside the oven. installed the new sensor, pluged in the wires, and replaced the back of the stove. A phillips screwdriver was the only tool needed.