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B4607X0 Roper Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for B4607X0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the B4607X0
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Dryer quit heating. Suspected heating element was open

  • Customer: Bill from Morristown TN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 137 of 155 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged the 220 volt source. Disconnected the vent line from the back of the drier. Removed the six screws holding the back panel with a 1/4 inch nut driver. Tipped the drier up at a 45 degree angle against the wall to give better access to the inside. Removed the screws holding the two thermostats to the side of the heater box and laid them aside. Disconnected the two red power lines to the heater element. Removed the large screw at the top of the heater box and removed the flexible bracket holding the heater box, then lifted the heater box up and away from the drier. Removed the one screw holding the heater element inside the heater box and pulled out the old heating element. The old element was open as found using an ohmeter on the two main terminals. Threw away the old element. Removed the new heating element from the box and slid it into the heater box making sure to align the terminal bracket with the hole in the heater box for the reinstallation of the mounting screw. Tightened this screw. Remounted the heater box to the two mounting slots and reinstalled the flexible mounting bracket to the top of the heater box and installed and tightened the large screw holding this bracket. Cut off and removed the old electrical push-on terminals from the two red power wires for the heater element. These were discolored and oxidated from the conducted heat over the years of operation. Using the supplied short red leads with push-on terminals already installed, I wire tied these new leads to the existing red power leads and pushed them onto the heater element terminals. Rechecked the soundness of the twisted wire connections to make sure they were tight. Replaced the back panel and reinstalled the six 1/4" screws with the 1/4' nut driever. Reinstalled the driver vent line and tightened its holding ring. Slid the drier back into position on the floor. Checked the level and readjusted the leveling legs for a steady floor stance. Reinstalled the 220 volt power connecter and set the controlls for a drying cycle. Let the drier run for aproximately 1 minute and then checked the air temperature inside the drier. IT WAS NOW PRODUCING HOT AIR. Project completed successfully and I was now a HERO in my wifes eyes. Absolutely no technical problems encountered. Just remember, unplug the drier before starting ANY repairs. To forget this COULD RUIN YOUR DAY.

Dryer was not heating

  • Customer: Frank from Fort Collins CO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 53 of 58 people found this instruction helpful
This is the second heating element I have replaced in this dryer which I bought new in 1977. That's right it is 32 years old and still works great!

The replacement process is simple:
One: pull the dryer away from the wall so that you have room to work in the back.
Two: Disconnect the dryer vent hose from the back of the dryer.
Three: Remove the five - 5/16" hex head sheet metal screws that hold the back cover in place and set the cover to the side.
Four: Go to the front of the dryer and remove the lint filter and the two slot head screws that hold the lint filter opening to the internal frame.
Five: Pop the top of the dryer open and remove the one 5/16" hex head screw that holds the top of the heating element strap to the frame.
Six: Go to the back of the dryer and remove the two leads from the thermostat that is mounted to the heating element casing. CAUTION: Be careful to note the position of the wires and be certain that you reattach the correct wire to the correct lead.
Seven: Lift the heating element case up about 1/2" to disengage the hooks at the bottom that hold it in place.Then pull the bottom of the heating toward you slightly while sliding it down. This will allow you to remove the heating element and casing.
Eight: Remove the heating element from the casing and insert the replacement heating element.

Reverse the above process to reassemble.
This entire process only takes about 20 minutes.

An additional note: Be certain that you pay careful attention to the positioning of the strap that holds the top of the heating element case to the dryer frame. If you install it incorrectly, the heating element case can fall away from the back of the drum assembly.

Loads in the dryer took a very long time to dry often needing two full cycles to completely dry.

  • Customer: Rod from Galveston TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 29 of 43 people found this instruction helpful
First, I moved the dryer out where it would be easily accessable. I then removed the back of the dryer using a nut driver. Once this was complete, I removed the cover holding the heating element. I disconnected the two wires and puled the old element out. I replaced it with the new heating element and reconnected the two wires. I then replace the back cover and moved the dryer back in place. The dryer works and heats much better now. Thankyou

Wet Clothes after two drying cycles

  • Customer: Paul from Houston TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 15 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
Replacing the Heating Element was the natural solution after I determined that the element had separated. First loosen the top panel and remove the lockdown clamp from the top of the Heating Element sleeve. Lean the dryer forward onto towels to avoid any scratches in the porceline. Remove the back panel of the dryer, and disconnect the six wires, then remove the Heating Element sleeve. Remove the screw holding the defective Heating Element and replace it with the new one. Reassemble in "reverse order" making certain that you attach the wires correctly and align all the panels squarely.

The Dryer Wouldn't Heat

  • Customer: Steve from Midwest City OK
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 17 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
First, I removed the wet clothes from the dryer. (Actually, I just kept drying them with cold air until they were dry... hee hee).
Then, I went to PartSelect.com and found a heating element for my make and model. I checked around and came back to PartSelect.com because they had the best price.

I thought about just buying the heating coil and restringing my old one, but I'm glad I didn't because the diameters were not a match and I wouldn't have been able to restring the new larger coil through the insulator holes of my old one.

I ordered my part Sunday night online and it was stated that my part would ship to me by Monday morning. It also said to allow 3-5 days to arrive.
My part was waiting for me Tuesday when I arrived home from work. That was quick!

I took the part out of the box and looked at it and said, "Yep, that's a heating element alright. I hope it fits."

I took the heating element out to the laundry room/garage/wife's shoes and clothing storage and muscled the dryer away from the wall and into a tiny area that she calls my space.

I pulled the lint trap screen out so I could get to those two screws that keep the lint shute attached to the top and unscrewed them.

Next, I lifted the top up just like you would a car's hood. Here's a cool trick to pop the top up. Pound the upper left front with the butt of your hand at the same time you are prying the top up on the left. Do the same on the front upper right area. That should help get that top up.

There was a bracket I knew about that I had to unscrew once the top was up. The bracket holds the top ot the heating element's box. It has to be removed so you can remove the heating element's box from the back in the next step.

With that heating element box bracket removed, I closed the top back down and then put the dryer on the floor with the door down and the back facing up.

I removed all the screws that were holding the back on and put the back out of my way, but still within the confines known as my space.

I pulled two electrical wires connected to a limit switch which were attached to the heating element box. Then I pulled the two power wires from the heating element itself.

Then I wiggled the heating element box out of the dryer and unscrewed a screw that was holding the heating element to the box.

I slipped the old heating element out of the box and put it next to the new one. Then I said a couple cuss words, because I noticed that the new element was much wider than the old one.

I took the new element and tried to slip it in the box. It just barely fit. Wow, that was a close call.

I knew that the element couldn't touch any part of the box it was nested in or it would cause a short and become an electrifying experience to remember. I checked very carefully that the heating element was safely suspended inside the box and no part of coil was touching the box.

Then I reattached the box to the dryer just the way I removed it. I wired it up and the limit switch too. I put the back back on. I stood the dryer back upright and popped the top again. I reinstalled the upper heating element brace back the way it was. It was a bit of a puzzle, because it's shaped funny.

Then I closed the top back down and it snapped into place. I put the lint trap screws back in. I positioned the dryer back were it likes to dance best and plugged it in.

I turned it on and it got hot. End of story!

Drum was binding because of worn bearing supporting front of dryer drum

  • Customer: Leslie from Townsend GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 12 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
First I unplugged the dryer for safety, then I removed the top of the dryer, then removed the 2 hex head screws holding the font door panel onto the dryer. Then I disconnected the door safety switch. the rest was cake. I removed the old bearing and cut the new bearing and seal to the exact size of the old one. I used contact cement to glue the new bearing and seal into place. Reassembly was a breeze. End of job. Success!!!

Heating Element went bad

  • Customer: Michael from Brownstown PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Took the back cover off and WA-LA, a bad element. Went online to PartSelect.Com and ordered the part and my Mom was drying clothes again in lees than a week. Now, I am her favorite son again.

Frig stopped cooling - Freezer side iced up

  • Customer: Walter R from Gainesville FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
After un-plugging the frig and allowing it to defrost, we emptied the frig and gave it a thorough cleaning inside and outside. I then removed the shelving in the freezer and the face plate at the back of the machine. One of the defrost heater coils had burned out and there was a loss of continuity which was keeping the frig from defrosting properly. The old heater snapped out easily. I went to this website and ordered a new defrost heater assembly which arrived practically overnight. It was identical to the old one and installed as quickly and easily as the original had come out. I put the faceplate back on, put the shelving back in, placed a thermometer inside the fresh food section, plugged it in and waited until I heard ice cubes drop. The fresh food section was holding at 41 degrees F which is optimum. The refrigerator has been working smoothly every since! Easy job!

Heating unit burned out.

  • Customer: Charles from Osceola MO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Followed the instructions, removed the back cover, disconnected the top, disconnected the element and removed the element holder, then the element. Reversed procedure to install the new part.

There dryer was not producing any heat

  • Customer: Terry from Boise ID
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
I unplugged the dryer from the electrical outlet, removed the back of the unit and checked the heating element for continuity. There was no reading. I then removed the housing and heating element and visually inspected it. The coiled wire was broken in two places.
I then did a Google search with the model number and found Parts Select. I placed my order Sunday afternoon and the part arrived the following Wednesday. That evening it took about 20 minutes to install the new element,put the back on the dryer and re-attach the exhaust tube.
The old dryer is as good as new again.
TJ in Boise

Dryer not heating

  • Customer: David from Paola KS
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
After removing the back (five nut screws), lifting the top (two lint filter screws), I diagnosed the problem (timer, fuse and sensors tested OK - heating element broken). I uninstalled the heating element cage sensors (three nut screws) but did not unwire them. Then I removed the heating element cage (one nut screw on top and lift) - the right angle screwdriver was very helpful. I removed the broken element (one nut screw on bottom). Ordered from Parts Select online because they had the element for a better price & quicker expedited shipping than Sears. As soon as the part arrived (two days!), I rewired and installed the element and assembled the dryer in the reverse order of the above process. Total time from package arrival to drying clothes (BIG stack) - 30 minutes!

Clothes took multiple cycles to fully dry.

  • Customer: Donald from Pine City NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Removed rear panel, removed 3 screws and old element and installed new element. To install new element I only needed one screw and spliced in the two wires that were provided with the element. This repair was simple and now the dryer works great.

heater was weak

  • Customer: Anthony from Wilmington DE
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Dryer was taking long time to dry cloths, electric bill seemed higer than usual, used 1/4" nutdriver, removed rear panel, opened top cover w/screw driver to pry with, marked all wires with blk tape to id them later. Did thorugh inspect/clean of link section to propeller baleds 1 hr, continuity check of heater, switches etc found heater lower than spec, ordered heater, continued to clean all sections & vents, installed new vent hose, pulled about 2lbs of sand, dust, lint from all sections, heater works great now, clothes dry quick. New heater core came in mail and installed it. The newer elecment was 5200 watts, orig was 5400 watts, ohms was same, size etc. The unit works like a charm. Notes:Did not check or lubricat the drum. Drum is very squeaky, belt in good shape. Dryer is 20yrs old. Will replace when I can afford it! for now I can live with some sqeaks, anyway as I am getting older my hearing is going away, Good luck.

Rust marks on clothing

  • Customer: Patrick from Manor TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Our dryer was leaving rust marks on our clothes that looked like a brown pencil mark. It turns out that the rear drum seal in our dryer was absorbing gunk over the years and we had to change it. It was a fairly easy fix but did require pulling the dryer almost completely apart. While we had it apart we changed this as well.

Anyone with a socket stet and screw driver can get it all apart.
On our machine, start by removing the 2 screws that hold the lint filter neck to the top of the machine (under the flap).
Then pry the top of the machine up in the front. It will pop up and you can fold it back.
Then you will need to remove 2 bolts and undo the plug.
From there you can pull the front off and get to the drum.Make sure you note how the belt tensioner comes out (under the drum) and how the belt is routed. It's quite basic.
After you get the drum off, peel the old seal(s) off and put the new seal(s) on as directed.

Pretty easy and our clean clothes stay clean now.

Dryer would not heat

  • Customer: Kevin from Silver Spring MD
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Wrench set
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Used the dryer illustrated parts list to find the heater. Used a multi-meter to determine that the heater had no resistance, meaning it was open and could not heat. Removed the heating element held to the dryer with one hex screw with a wrench. Purchased a replacement heating element and received it within 2 days. Screwed the new heating element with a hex wrench again. The dryer works like new now.
All Instructions for the B4607X0
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