Models > AYE1000AYW > Instructions

AYE1000AYW Admiral Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for AYE1000AYW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the AYE1000AYW
31-45 of 654
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Dryer Not Heating

  • Customer: Timothy from Prairieville LA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
This repair was so easy a sleeping Turtle could do it. You just remove the wiring from the old unit and remember which wire is on which terminal. Easily remove the old unit and replace it. Reattach the wires and you are done! Maytag is a very easy unit to work with. Just remember if you ever have to replace your Terminal Block, don't forget to order the brass nuts to attach the wires. Regular nuts will overheat and cause a fire hazard.

Dryer went dead during a load and needed to replace the fuses.

  • Customer: Andy from Lawrenceville GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Very easy repair. Just needed to remove some screws to access the heating element area. The fuses are (1) just above the elements and (2) to the right side of them (if facing from the front). Alittle loosening with a philips screwdriver, removing blown fuses, replace with new fuses, tighten new fuses in place, replace outer screws and job done. Also made sure to fully clean lint collection area. I had a good amount stuck in there and it restricted air flow which caused the fuses to blow. It took 6 years worth of drying to make it happen.

pull out lint screen holder broke

  • Customer: steve from madison WI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
used a flat blade screw driver to open top up(like a car hood) then removed two screws that held the front panel on. Two more screws held the lint colector part in place. The only problem that I had was that I had to use Elmers white glue to hold the gasket that ran around the lint colector in place.Just a little dab, not enough to soak it.When I took the part out there was about a volleyball's worth of lint in the fan blower. Ordered the part and 2 or three days later I had it. If I need another part I will be back...

dryer was making a thump sound when drying clothes or when it came to a stop

  • Customer: andrea from west reading PA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
My husband and I used a screwdriver to pry open the top of the dryer, then unscrewed the two front corners of it from the inside. Next, we disconnected wires attached to front lid, then pulled the big barrel of the dryer away from the rest of it. We put a new drum roller wheel on the left side and greased the inside perimeter of it. Next, we took off the old cushion set, and stuck on the newer set, and greased drum glide as well. Lastly, we took off the "old" belt, and replaced it with the one we purchased from PartSelect. We forgot how the old one came off the pulley, but after much trial and error, we figured it out in a snap! (this is why this project took us longer than we expected)
In conclusion, this company for parts is wonderful and I have been referring them to all of my friends!

dryer did not run at all

  • Customer: Ronald from Jacksonville FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 10 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
removed heating element, thermostat, and then replaced fuse. sorry, the control thermostat was not the problem. it was the fuse kit that failed. the control thermostat would have been easier to replace.

Noisy and Ineffective Drying Cycle due to Damaged Blower Wheel

  • Customer: John from Webster City IA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
0. Opened packaged and receipt verified the parts against the drawing and packing slip.
1. Disconnected dryer from power source by pulling the plug.
2. Removed the two screws (philips) on left and right side of the main frame to allow access to the blower assembly.
3. (Optional)Verified power dead at the circuitry near the blower wheel assembly (former navy electrician- "check it dead").
4. Removed the two screws at the base of the wheel cover using the screw driver (philips). The other screws on the assembly cover required the use of a 1/4" nut driver.
5. Opened the assembly, and with a flathead, pried the Retaining Omega ring, and removed the damaged wheel (broken vanes and missing straight end of the center ring) and disposed.
6. Inserted the new wheel on the shaft and was able to manually do it until about 3/4 of the way; to get it fully insert it, tap it with a mallet (tap the center of the wheel and avoid the blades).
7. Insert the retaining ring and operationally test it by manually rotating the tumbler and verifying the blower wheel moves freely and without noises.
8. (Optional) Vacuumed the lint and dust from the wheel assembly, the filter and exhaust line (found several broken pieces of vanes there). Inspected heater assembly for obvious signs of damage
9. Re-installed the assembly cover and the main cover back to the frame
10. Reconnected the plug to outlet and tested by a starting a 10 minutes cycle- no noise and constant flow of air.
11. Smoked a Motecristo Churchill as I grilled the steaks and pondered the greatness of the free market.

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Dryer belt broke- drum would not turn

  • Customer: Ronald from Oakdale CT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
This was so much easier than I though it was going to be. Pulled up on the top part of the dryer and folded it over to the back. Removed 2 screws for the front panel and disconnected some wires. Laying down I fed the new belt on and made sure the tensioner was put back into the right spot, because when the belt broke the tensioner sprung to the other end of its travel. Put everything back together. This was made super easy because you guys had the parts and the shipping was super fast. Alot of the local shops in the area didnt even carry the belt or were not helpful..

Door Catch was broken

  • Customer: Inocencio from Edinburg TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
I just inserted the door catch, which by the way fit in perfectly. Thanks. Took 5 seconds to repair.

No heat from element

  • Customer: Jason from Waukesha WI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the top cover, unplugged the wires on the element, removed bolt holding the element in place. Replacement took about Fifteen minutes to complete.

dryer not heating

  • Customer: john from saint charles MO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
i removed the top by gently prying between the top and cabinet after first unplugging the cord. . 1/4" nut driver used to remove the thermal switch from the bracket . thermal fuse was connected with two white wires and immediately below the thermal switch. remove the heating element for access to the thermal fuse. replace parts and reassemble.

Loud screeching metal to metal sound. The roller and "axle" were worn out.

  • Customer: JEan from Cypress TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
First I disconnected the power cord. Next the top of the dryer was easily popped upen with a screw driver by inserting it between the top panel and the front door panel. I removed the two sheet metal screws that held the door panel on the upper right and left sides. The door panel was easily lifted up and out and set it to the side (the door switch can stay connected, the wire is long enough). d I pulled the drum out from off of the rollers that hold the drum in place. No need to remove the belt, it stays in place. I reached through the drum and removed the two hex-head screws that held the roller in place ( I only replaced the left one) and added the new one. I pushed the drum back in place over the rollers (it snaps in place). I propped the drum up with a short screw driver to raise it off of the right and left drum glides (on the bottom). I replaced the felt pads and the plastic glides and set the drum back in place. I also replaced the felt ring (seal) that circles the door opening that the drum also glides on. I glued it in place in spots (with gasket glue). It folds back over itself and forms a double thick pad. You will see what I mean when you see how the old one looks. I replaced the front door panel and snapped the top panel back in place. I let the dryer set over night so the glue would set up. I turned it on the next morning and it is as quiet now as when it was new. Oh ...Jay (the husband) did the work not Jean the wife (her dryer, her credit card)

dryer drum belt broke

  • Customer: Paul from Athens TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
I needed to remove the front lower cover, very easy as it is held on with clips only so I used a flat head screw driver to pop it off. I had to remove the lint filter and then there are two screws attaching the top cover of the dryer to the internal lint filter tray. The top of the dryer can then be opened front to back I again used the flat head screw driver to pop the top open as it has two clips at the front corners. It helps to have someone to hold it open or a rod of some type to keep it open. You can now lay the belt on the top of the drum and work it down the back side by pulling forward on the drum itself to seperate the drum from the seal that presses aginst the back side of the drum. I then went from the lower front to retrieve the belt now draped over the drum and pinched the belt to pass it through the tensioner and over the drive pulley. looking at it from the front the belt will come down the right side of the drum under the tensioner pulley around the drive pulley across the bottom of the drum and up the left side. The belt sits almost in the middle of the drum not against the back lip where there is a groove that might be confused as a place for the belt to ride that is where the seal sits then reverse the process to reattach the top to lint tunnel and reattach front cover and you are good to go . i would suggest vaccuming any old dust/ lint whlie everything is open as this reduces the chance for catching on fire I was supprised as to how much lint was loose inside the dryer cavity itself and our dryer is gas and the flame is an open flame.

dryer not working at all

  • Customer: Robert from Manassas VA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
through the help of Parts select web site, i diagnosed the problem to the limit switch at the dryer element...I found the parts at Parts Select that included both limit switches and one control thermostat in one convient part number, the help videos are excellent, and the repair went flawlessly... basically the dryer front was removed, and then the drum with belt, that allowed me to get to both dryer element limit switches,and then replaced the thermostat at the bottom of the dryer below the drum, I reassembled the unit and it is working like new... thanks Parts Select, you saved me a lot of money.

extremely noisy operation

  • Customer: Paul from Daly City CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
unplugged unit, opened lid, removed 2 screws & door switch from front panel, removed front panel & drum.
Removed clips & washers from rear roller shafts, removed 2 screws (each) attaching rear roller shafts to rear of unit. Replaced rear roller shafts, thrust washers, rollers & clips. Removed clip from belt tensioner idler arm, replaced idler pulley wheel & clip.
pulled tensioner toward motor side and locked in place with broomstick. Placed new belt over drum & installed drum/belt into unit, engaging rear drum lip over new rear drum support rollers. Guided belt
over motor shaft and slowly released broomstick to
tension belt. Turned drum by hand to ckeck belt tracking. Reinstalled front panel & door switch, installed 2 screws holding front panel to case. Closed lid. Plugged unit in & tested for proper operation-OK.

Lint screen assembly holder had broken

  • Customer: George from Vernon CT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the 2 screws located on front panel securing dust collector in place, then I removed the two screws on the side of the dryer that secure the front panel. I also "popped" the top
of the dryer from the front panel. The front of the panel was then detached from the dryer. I thenpulled the gasket away from the collector, removed the old one and installed the new collector. Part of the kit also contained a new gasket to the exhaust duct, I merely removed the old gasket and installed the new one.. All this was notas hard asit sounds. The diagram from PartsSelect site helped
All Instructions for the AYE1000AYW
31-45 of 654