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AWM190W Amana Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the AWM190W
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Leaky drain hose
First I tried to lift the lid on the top of the washing machine. I eventually realized this model doesn't open up from the top. I removed two screws on the very bottom of the front panel of the washing machine. Then pulled gently downward to release the front panel from the two clips holding it in at the top. Once the front panle was removed, I found I could easily access the drain hose and disconnect it from the pump by loosening the clamp screw. (Be aware, there is still water in the hose and pump that will run out onto the floor; I had a bucket close by and tried to catch most of this water, but its somewhat futile.) There are two additional hose clips one underneath the tub, and one on the back panel of the washer that hold the hose away from other mechanical parts. Once the hose is freed from those clips it could be removed from the washer by feeding the hose out the back panel. The new hose was then inserted and fed down inside the washer, attached to the pump, tighten the hose clamp screw, clip the hose to the other two clamps so it is out of the way of other parts, reattached the front panel and you're done!

One other note about PartSelect.com...A few days after ordering my part, I had an "International Transaction Fee" show up on my debit card statement. I panicked thinking my card number had been stolen only to call my bank and find out PartSelect is based in Canada.
Parts Used:
Drain Hose with Rubber Elbow
  • Keith from Little Elm, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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drive shaft seal leak in pump
removed the front of the washer, removed the motor and pump. Reinstall new pump.
Parts Used:
Drain Pump
  • Gary from Pickerington, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Leaking Water
I called Lucky Buy when I realized it was more than the drain hose.
I asked if they would install for the same $55 if I got the parts online for less than their price & they said yes.
Once the parts came, they came back (Initial call was $20) for the $55 part replacement call.
At one point he said he had to leave & came back in 20 mins with the pump sawed off (into pieces - it was frozen on the base!)...
He also installed a new belt (Also ordered here for less than their quote!) +
I got braided steel hoses and (3) sets of screens (I'll start changing them annually!) ~
The washer now fills AT LEAST 4x as quickly with new hoses & screens!
The clothing comes out MUCH LESS DAMP with the new belt!
+ it is FAR QUIETER with the new belt!
We're in HEAVEN over here! :-)
ONE THING:
One that first load after the repair, I noticed the water level (Set, as always, to XL) was over halfway UP the side of the agitator's fabric softner dispenser, but thought MAYBE I was "misremembering", but nooo, I don't think I was because LOTS of water spilled out the MIDDLE FRONT BOTTOM once it did the cycle...
(This did not happen when he tested it before leaving - on the SMALL cycle (Which we NEVER use)...
SO!
QUICK FIX:
We set the water level to "LARGE" and all's been fine ever since! :-)
Anyone know whick part we need for the water to stop UNDER the bottom of the fabric softner, like it used to?

I am VERY PLEASED to have found this site and Lucky Buy - I am _SURE_ I saved WAY OVER $100 total (Parts & Labor) & my 15-year old machine is AS GOOD AS NEW NOW (almost - that leak's got to GO! :-)
Parts Used:
Drain Pump
  • Mary from San Bernardino, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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grease in washer
remove agitator then remove center bolt from hub, match bolt with longer bolt so that gear puller will work. install bolt and gear puller and twist top of gear puller until hub is removed. remove old seal ,use sand cloth or emery cloth to remove all deposits from shoulder. make it shinny, use some dawn dishwashing soap to line the inside of the new seal at the bottom and slide into place.take a piece of 2" PVC about 4" long and slide over the top of the seal and tap with a rubber hammer until seal is seated firmly on shoulder. look to see that there are no gaps with a inspection mirror or a make-up mirror.If their are no gaps ,install the hub and tap on the new hub with the rubber hammer. the hub will not seat all the way down so use the old bolt to pull it down, now take out the old bolt and install the new one, this is because the new one has lock tite on it ,your done!
Parts Used:
Drive Bell and Seal Kit
  • Jan from Denver, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Socket set
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Washer was leaking on floor
First, I printed all the diagrams on the Partselect site so I would know how things went together.

I removed the two screws at the bottom of the front panel and removed the panel by pulling the bottom out allowing the top to come off he retaining clips. I then used pliers to remove the two springs holding the front of the washer tub to the base. Then I removed the spring that attached to the idler arm and the motor. (I also took digital pictures of everything in case I forgot the routing of the belt, the location of springs, etc.) Next I loosened the clamps holding the inlet and outlet hoses to the pump. The water loss was minimal as my washer was still functioning, but I could see that if the washer died with a full tub, there could be a lot of water. I then slipped the 2 hoses off the pump. Next I removed the four bolts holding the motor/pump combo from the frame. I unpluged the electrical connector (on the top left side of the pump....it has a locking tab on top that must be depressed to remove it). Then tilt the bottom of the motor/pump combo up and forward to allow it to come out of the machine. Please note the routing of the belt for replacement later.

The pump has 3 screws (torx) that attaches it to the motor. In most cases, it seems the pump will seize to the motor shaft due to the heat of the motor over time. Since the pump is bad anyway, I simply chiseled it off the motor shaft using a flat blade screwdriver and hammer. It is tempting to put the screwdriver between the motor pulley and pump, but this will only bend the pulley.......I know from experience. It will take several good whacks but eventually the pump will come off. In my case the pump had leaked enough that the end of the motor shaft was slightly pitted and corroded. I took a file and cleaned up the end so the new pump would slide on properly. I also put a small amount of machine oil on the motor shaft and wiped it good just to make the pump easier to mount. I then slide the pump on the motor shaft, replaced the 3 torx screws (make sure you have the belt in the right position.....one run of it goes inside the pump mounting stud.) I then reversed the process.....remounted the motor/pump combo, reattached the power connector, replaced the belt on the pulley beneath the drum, reattached the idler tension spring, reattached the 2 hoses and clamps, and reattached the 2 drum holddown springs. I then inserted the top of the front panel on the two clips and tilted it back down into place and replaced the 2 screws at the bottom front.

All in all, it was very easy..........taking only an hour or so. My belt was still in good condition, but I could advise you to go ahead and replace the belt while you are in there. It also could be practical to replace the pulley on top of the pump, as it is easy to bend. I did bend mine, but managed to straighten it back out.

After completing the repair, the washer works perfectly with no leaks.
Parts Used:
Drain Pump
  • Walter from Cairo, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Drain Hose had a crack and leaked
Removed front panel; loosened hose clamp at pump; removed existing drain hose. Easy part.
Installed new hose at pump and tightened hose clamp. Somewhat difficult.
1. Your hose design should be solid flexible rubber hose instead of corrugated type. Had rough time snaking hose to the pump.
2. Your future designs should have rubber hose or hard piping to the exit hole on the back panel and terminated in a male fitting, then connect flexible hose from fitting to drain line. Similar to "hot & cold " water connections.
3. For future customers- care should be taken installing the "black" portion ; it kinked on me 2 or 3 times because you have to keep rotating the entire hose to keep the "black" portion straight.
Parts Used:
Drain Hose with Rubber Elbow
  • Bernard from Pinellas Park, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Wrench set
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Pump was leaking
Unplugged machine from wall, disconnected supply hosesand removed drain pipe from drain. Removed pump/motor assy located in the front of the machine. Replaced pump and belt. Be carefule how you route the belt. Upon inspection before powering up I noticed I ran the belt wrong and it was rubbing on one of the pumps plastice screw housing. Had to disassemble, re-route belt and re-assemble. Powered machine up and it worked great.
Parts Used:
Drain Pump V-Style Drive Belt (32.5 inches long)
  • William from Bristol, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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none
took the drive belt to the pump off then put the belt for the drum on .then put the belt for pump back on. basickly this unit is one of the easist to work on
Parts Used:
V-Style Drive Belt (32.5 inches long)
  • C from Palatine, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Pump worn out - Leaking
Part received was correct (5 days ARO). Removed motor assy from unit (left wires connected). Found drive belt was also worn out & obtained a new one locally. Seperated old pump from rusted motor shaft using 2 screwdrivers. Had to use a file to lightly "polish" rust off motor shaft to install new pump. On-line parts diagram helpful in getting belt properly alinged to idler pully. Machine now runs smoothly, dosn't leak and sound like new. Wife happy (me too)!
Parts Used:
Drain Pump
  • Charles from Portsmouth, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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Leaking pump
1. unplug unit 2. remove front access plate 3. disconnect tension spring on drive belt 4. remove 4 motor mount screws 5. disconnect intake and return lines from pump using a pliers to decompress compression rings and sliding lines off. 6. Manipulate motor and loosen drive belt from bottom of tub and let it hang. 7. tilt motor bottom out exposing pump and remove 3 screws using TREX head driver and remove pump. 8. install new pump
Parts Used:
Drain Pump
  • Joseph from Goldsboro, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
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Water continue to drip with machine shut off
Rear panel has to be removed to access part. Removing controls top of machine, two screws lower left and right, will make back panel removal easier. Back panel hangs on 2brackets,protruding thru the panel, near the top, and 3 screws across the bottem. You will also have to remove the drain pass thru connecting the internal drain hose to the external drain hose. The replacement part does not have matching screw mount holes to those on the rear panel. Their is a square punch out with a tab on the replacement which can be used for the top mount screw. Use a drill and bit to round the hole. Mount replacement then drill a hole in the replacement for the the lower mount screw. 1 day service and works like new.
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve
  • Dennis from Bandera, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Seal Kit
Taking the hub out was a promblem because, with a puller it did not come out. It broke off while pulling out we had to drill it
out had to brake off.You need a 1 1/2 inch deep socket with a impact wrench. It was a hassel but got done. I replaced the whole seal kit and it is still leaking it leaks from the bottom of the tub. It leaks worse when it has a heavy load I dont know what to do.Need help.
Parts Used:
Complete Hub and Seal Kit
  • Pat from Rio Rancho, NM
  • Difficulty Level:
    Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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belt was cracking and dryer was somewhat noisy
I used your great video for pointers as to what to do. I took off the front, raised the top, vacuumed the whole thing up, that took quite a while. Took out the drum. Did more cleaning. Then took off the old retaining rings with retaining ring pliers, took off the old drum rollers and support. Replaced with new roller supports, washer, roller, washer and retaining rings. Then I replaced the belt. Tested it and turned the wrong way and it came off. Replaced and tested it again and I don't know why but it came off. Replaced the belt again, tested fine. Then I replaced the felt pads and glides, they were worn. I ended up asking my husband to help hold the drum so I could get the front back on. Replaced front and door. Tried the dryer. Works great AND very, very little noise. Note: when taking the wiring off the light and the door switch, I took photo's of those places with my cell phone and had them to look at to make sure the wiring was correct.
Parts Used:
Thrust Washer
  • Melody from Silverton, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Hose was in contact with bracket for tub causing the hose to wear thru.
Very easy repair. Removed the lower front panel of the washing machine (two screws) with nutdriver.

Removed hose clamp with pliers. Removed hose from machine. Replaced hose and ran thru a full cycle to check for leaks.

No leaks, back in business in under an hour. This time includes going out to garage and gather the two tools needed for the job and cleaning up the water that came out of the hose during the removal process.
Parts Used:
Drain Hose with Rubber Elbow
  • Joseph from Groveville, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
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Hole in Drain Hose
I disconnected the water supply line to washer and moved washer into open area. I removed the front panel of washer to gain access to drain hose. I removed hose and reinstalled new hose. I did turn the hose holder inside the washer as it allowed the old hose to rub against the housing support of the washer causing the hose to leak. I was glad that I read the article that someone mentioned in their repair. The new hose was somewhat difficult to maneuver through the back of the washer and through the part that held the hose; otherwise, it was rather easy. Thanks for the feed back on your web page.
Parts Used:
Drain Hose with Rubber Elbow
  • Mike from Lithonia, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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All Instructions for the AWM190W
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