ATL/ATN130HK1 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

I removed the cover, used a multimeter to test the compressor circuit, and found the compressor start relay to be defective.
Ordered a new one and installed it when it arrived.

First, I unplugged the appliance. Safety, first.
Than I removed the shield which was held in by screws. This covered the fan, thermometer.
The defrost thermostat was taken out, with a little extra force. The wires on the defective part were no longer attached to the part. The instructions were easy to follow in replacing the defrost thermostat. I stripped the coating on the wire, attached it with the enclosed electical bugs. The assy was able to follow, and the part went back on. The refrigerator is working perfectly. I couldn't have done it without the help in diagnosing the problem and with the speedy delivery of the new part. Thanks for all your help and the ease of the installing the new part!

Removed the cowling with a square drive screw driver, removed the spring clip from the cover of the compressor controls with a screw driver, pulled off the old compressor start relay and replaced it with the new part. Since other problems could have caused the compressor to short cycle this was a "replace the part and hope it would work" since that would be the most common reason and it was not a very expensive part.

The BIG problem was getting the old drip pan off. The bolt on top of the compressor was too long to allow the removal of the old drip pan. I removed the old drip pan by cutting most of it away with tin shears then cutting the remaining part of the pan around the bolt with a hack saw (taking care not to damage freon lines and raising the pan above the threads of the bolt so as not to damage the threads). I still had to cut half the bolt away with a hack saw by replacing the nut and cutting a third of the bolt away (above the nut), so the new pan would fit. Putting the new pan on was a breeze after that. It may be easier to just cut the bolt off altogether on top of the compressor and use the wire clips per the instructions supplied with the kit to install the new one.

Removed old thermostat and replaced. really easy.

Wasn't sure if it was the derost timer or the heating element. Since the timer was much cheaper, I bought it and crossed my fingers.
My story is like the others. Unplug the refrigerator, snip the old wires, strip back the wire insulation, use the supplied connectors to attach the new defrost timer to the existing wiring.
Success! My coils no longer freeze up.
Only difficulty is I am a large guy, and fitting my upper body into the freezer was challenging.

First I remove the back panel which had 4 screws. Then I removed the ice maker. The icemaker is held in place by the 2 screws that requires backing the screws out just a litter, than lift up and remove the electrical connector. Used a volt ohm meter to check the resisitant in the heater element and the defrost timing switch. Both tested good and that left only the thermostat. Removed and replaced the thermastat swich. I cut the ends of the old switch and crimp the ends of wire with the crimps that came with the swict i purchased from parts select. My refrigerator is working properly and making ice like normal.

After the refrigerator stopped cooling, we determined that the problem was in the compressor area. we used a screwdriver to get the cover off and then vice grips to get the actual pieces out (start relay & overload)--they broke, but they were already broken). We went to the Home Depot site to purchase the parts, but found PartSelect to be much less expensive. Put the parts in when they came a few days later and it worked! thank you PartSelect!

tested defrost timer and heater. And then tested defrost timer with ohm test($6 at hard ware store) Closed and would not open replace and tested freezer take 30mins to get switch cold and retest.

Pulled out the freezer. Unplugged. No freezer back cover was there. The compressor start relay was in a plastic encasement attached to the compressor - wires led me to it. Removed the solid metal spring with a screwdriver and removed the plastic cover. Tried to pull out the defective relay but the freezer was so old I needed a pliers to remove it. When I put pressure on the old relay with the pliers the relay broke and came off in pieces. I then removed the wires from the broken parts and put them on the new relay. I pushed the new relay onto the 2 pins then replaced the cover and spring. After plugging the freezer in the problem was fixed.

Top freezer took off the panel in freezer and melted the ice around coils and found the defrost thermostat and replaced with the new one. Just followed the instructions from your video on line. Freezer works just fine now. Refrigerator is 38 years old.

My fridge side had warmed up to 70 degrees but the freezer side was still cold. The coils inside had iced up. After thawing with a hair dryer, it froze back after another week. I removed the old defrost thermostat and wired the heater strip directly and turned on the defrost timer. It began melting the ice so that ruled out the heater strip being bad. I couldn't get a reading with my ohm meter on the defrost thermostat so I took a chance and bought the part. Installation was a breeze and it fixed the problem.

Took old defrost pan off, put new one on. Had to bend new defrost pan a little for it to fit..

Followed the instructions provided in your video, took less than 15 minutes and works like new. Thank you for the parts and the advice.

I removed the compressor start relay and replaced it with the new part. Initially it did not work. When I checked my work, I had to tighten the connector on the new part. Once I made the correction, the freezer is freezing normally again.