ATF8000FS2 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

Completed by my wife on line instruction video

The video was helpful and gave good ideas to look for, it was harder to reach the pins holding each end. I used a 6-8 inch dowel rod to remove and replace the plastic pins. First time always takes longer than advertised but I wasn't in a big hurry.

Removed retaining band around door boot and prized-off boot on left side to access door lock - simple screw driver replacement job. Deleted last error code. BUT - washer worked again for several days, and now code E43 is back and won't spin - problem is intermittent - so suspect it is NOT the door lock, but a wiring or control board problem. Ongoing.

Took off top. Removed 2 screws on Door Lock Assembly and replaced.

You must remove the top of the washer with screws on rear of washer. Top slides forward to remove. Once top is removed you can reach door lock mechanism from the top. Two screws must be removed from the front of the washer where lock enters mech. You can grab the mechanism from above by the wires that run to it. Undo wiring harness and insert new mehanism. Slide into place and attach in the front of washer with screws. This job is easy and can save you a lot on repair bills!

sucked out remaining water with shop vac. took off lower front panel, two screws. took off back panel, six screws. diconnected drain hose from pump,some addittional water drained out, sucked up with shop vac. disconnected tub drain from pump, more water, shop vac. unplugged two wires from back of pump, removed two screws holding pump, removed pump, put in new pump, reversed procedure. Done!

The machine is very heavy. It was setup in a tight elevated drain basin on the top floor of the house. I could not move it off the drain basin onto the floor, so I built a platform and shifted the machine on to the platform. Once the machine was on the platform, I located an access panel on the back of the machine, removed it and found the pump. Part Select indicated that a drainage problem was probably the pump or the filter, so I bought both. I removed the pump and found a finishing nail had passed through the filter into the pump and jammed the pump's propeller. So, I replaced the jammed pump with the new pump. The existing filter seemed OK and a lot of trouble to remove, so I left it in place. I re-assembled the machine , pushed it back into place and it has worked ever since. Lessons learned: the clamps that hold the inlet and output hoses to the pump are really difficult to remove and replace without the right tool. Don't leave finishing nails in the pockets of your dirty work pants; be ware of very sharp edges on the bottom the machine and consider turning the machine over if you need to replace more than just the pump.

I took off the bottom cover by removing the two screws on the bottom cover. The shock absorber was completely broken off from its bracket. I pulled the plastic pin on the top and bottom of the shock absorber and installed the new shock. The machine works perfect again spinning out all the water. With the broken shock absorber the drum will shake violently and the machine shuts down. It makes it appear to be an electric control problem.

Using a youtube video, (which might have actually been related to parts select), the door lock replacement went smoothly AFTER I couldn't SEE the SPRING around the rubber boot, as the spring was the SAME color and with a little bit of dust on it, was indistinguishable. As soon as I found it, the rest was fairly simple. I MIGHT even try replacing the moldy boot on these stupid front loaders...I paid for overnight shipping as I also had Geek squad guys on hold for repair, and needed to know fast, whether or not this would do the trick. HOORAY!

I watched a tutorial online (don't believe it he only showed the easy side) you have to hold the clip on the nylon pin and drive it out on both ends of the shock. on the rite side the lower pin hits on the back side and wont come out far enough to release the shock,i had to get on the backside and cut the pin off(thankfully their was a spare pin in the kit,you also have to disconnect a hose in front of the top pin on the rite side,i don't know how you would ever get this pin out if you ever had to again as you have to drive it in backwards. I neglected to tell you this was a top loader and the fron lower panel gives you access to these shocks.

Remove the 2 screws on the rear of the top panel. Open door and remove the 2 screws holding the latch assembly. Reach down and pull up latch. Remove the 3 wire connectors. Plug wire into new latch and re-install in reverse order.

One day the washer would spill water out on the floor then it would be fine for a week and do it again.Finally it broke,i ordered the new drain pump and installed it in just a few minutes,Hose clamps were a pain,it works just fine now,I would say replace the clamps while you are doing this ,it would make it much easier .Hope this helps !

Everything went great, except replacing the rubber seal, that was a little bit harder to put back in place. But other then that, went very well and easy to repair.

Remove the top cover and the doorlacth and unplug the old parts as simple as that

The washer was in the garage, and if you take off the top of the washer, the entire inside is un-insulated. THAT is why these things freeze and break in the cold. Turn off the water, un-hook the water hoses, remove the frozen valve body (two screws into the soap dispenser) and replace. The new part doesn't come with the rubber grommets that slide into the soap dispenser, so use your old ones. Put some WD-40 on the rubber grommets and push the valve body into the soap dispenser....it will slide in soooo much easier than without it. After screwing in the two screws to the soap dispenser, wrap the valve body loosely (but completely) with some fiberglass insulation. I insulated the whole inside of the washer (staying clear of the motor and belt) so that it would survive colder temps!