ATF8000FS1 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

During this repair job, I replaced the outer door cover and door hinge of this front loading washer. The outer door cover had cracked and shattered above the top hinge pin, leaving only the lower hinge pin to keep the door mounted onto the washer. The outer door cover contains the door hinge housing. Initially, I could not remove the hinge from the front of the washer, because the attaching flat-head screws were REALLY torqued onto the washer. My hand held screwdriver was unable to loosen these screws, so I bought a Black & Decker cordless 12V impact driver from Home Depot for $59. This power tool worked great, and I removed the hinge assembly and door from the washer. When you're using the impact driver, make sure you've got the correct sized bit for the Phillips head. You can buy a bit set at Home Depot. If you don't use the correct size, you'll just strip the head, and then you'll also have to buy a damaged screw extractor. Once the hinge was removed, I discovered that the lower hinge arm had been bent, due to the door hanging off just the lower arm. When I attempted to straighten out the hinge arm, it broke off. After a few choice words, I ordered a new hinge assembly from PartSelect. Once I received the new hinge, I reassembled the door, and attached the hinge to the washer. When seating the plastic hinge bushings into the outer door hinge housing, make sure the slotted tabs of both hinge bushings are fitted snugly into the hinge housing. You won’t be able to reassemble the inner and outer door covers if the bushings are not seated properly, I finally got everything back together, and now my washer works great. Using perfect hindsight, I would also recommend that my fellow handymen replace the proprietary flat-head screws which hold the hinge onto the washer. My first attempts to remove the hinge screws damaged them pretty badly. You should also consider replacing all the screws which hold the inner and outer door panels together.

Remove back panel,lay on side,2 screws remove the motor,unclamp the hose drain,DO NOT USE FACTORY CLAMPS.Buy standand hose clamps and save lots of time.Tighten clamps,screw motor back in place,your washing cloths again.

My shocks on the washer were broken, in part because of age, the other is broken spider drum inside the barrel. Was very easy to do the shocks. Unhook water connections and power. Move washer away from the wall. Remove the back cover from the washer. On the left side, you have to remove two screws from the electronics control box so you can gently move it out of the way. Then grab the plastic pin with some pliers and pull while depressing the locking lug on the end of the pin (Very important to depress the lock or you will have to buy new pins) Remove both pins for each shock. I used some high pressure grease on the pins when I put it all back together. Was a quick fix. Unfortunately had to take it all back apart as this was only a small part of my issue with having the stainless drum being broken inside.

After searching the internet, I found out that the error code flashing on my front loading washer was an easy DIY fix. I went into our local big box home improvement store who told me to go to their online store for the part I needed. I did but had zero luck. I found the part I needed here and found a great video online which walked me through the repair. The part arrived and it took less than 10-mins to be done and have a working washer again. Thanks for the great service! From a working mom in NC

Replaced the shocks. It was easy

I followed the instructions enclosed with the parts and removed the front access panel. Following the instructions for removal of the shock absorber mounting pins for the mount on the left hand side of the washer (as observed from the front) was difficult. I depressed the pin using my finger and I used a small nut driver to push the pin out. The nut driver was smaller than the pin and helped push the pin completely out. Even so, this require a lot of effort and I cut my hand when it slipped (no job worth doing always requires a little bloodletting). Installation of the replacement shock absorber in this position required moderate effort but went well. After a lot of effort trying to remove the pins on the shock absorber on the right hand side of the washer it became obvious that it was impossible to do it from the front of the washer. Other objects in the washer obstructed access to the pins. So I had to remove the back panel of the washer to aid in accessing the pins. At this point I required the assistance of my wife to depress the tab on the pins while I pulled on the pins with a pair of pliers’. The bottom pin has an obstruction where the pin pulls out. Removing the pin required quite an effort and nearly broke the pin (I guess that is why a replacement pin is in the kit). We installed the pin for this bottom mount in the opposite direction than the original pin was installed. I am sure that I saved a lot of money by doing this myself, but I would not recommend others to do it themselves.

I replaced doorlok as every one sujested but that did not fix it I then replaced thr control panel with a new upgraded one. It is not that simple for an amature. New control came with one of the control shafts missing had difficulty getting it in position so so control would be on right function. after all that I found diagnostic instructions taped to bottom of washer

I found this wonderful web site, after removing the cover and running a diagnostic to find it was either the door lock or the TCP control board. Control board unable to find any information on was scared to call the repair man as they usually cost about $500.00. I am a single mother and order the door lock and just like that I was able to repair it myself. Thanks you so much!!!

Turned off electricity. Unscrewed top panel. Took off top panel. opened door. Unscrewed door lock. Pulled lock up. Unplugged connections. Plugged in new part, positioned, and screwed in. Replaced top panel

Washer was shipped by military. When it didn't work right I looked online and was told it might be the bolt for the shock so I ordered the part because the cost was nominal and called a repairman. Found out that in shipping moving bolts were installed. There was I sticker on the back of machine to explain but I didn't read it. Took out moving bolts and it works fine. The machine was missing one stabilizing foot and I did order that at the same time and I installed it easily.

Installation of Part # 131-763-202 door lock and switch Assy.

Note that the only reasonable access to the lock and switch Assy is by removing the front of the gasket between the drum and the cabinet. It is also the only necessary access.

This problem is unique to older models. My experience was a bit frustrating but the solution was finally found. While it took me a long time (and extra parts) to figure out the problem, the solution is actually pretty easy.

IF you have an machine with a black striker/catch on the door, the installation is not entirely straightforward, The black striker/catch on the door has an L-shaped lower prong that engages the door latch. This striker/catch will NOT work with the newer door lock. The required striker/catch is part # 134-456-600. It is white, and has a diamond-shaped upper prong.

When you remove the older-style lock (Part # 1231-269-400) that accepts the black striker/catch, you will immediately notice that there are more electrical connections on the new part than on the old. This requires some minor rewiring.

The two connections (Bl/W and w) that go to the latch solenoid are unchanged and attach to the brown solenoid on the new part.

The arrangement of the other connections on the new lock/latch is as follows (numbering is mine)

1 2 3 4 5 6

Terminals 2 and 3 are the “PTC” and must be connected to the red (double) and white wires that are on a special double plug. The plug must be cut off and replaced by regular (F) spade connectors. DO NOT be tempted to insert the double plug into the new lock. Although it fits, it does NOT work.

Connect the two door-lock switch wires (Bk and Bk/R) to terminals 5 and 6.

Note that with the new lock, the machine has to rest a while before the catch is released, the door catch is not released as soon as the door-lock light goes off.

Note also that the actuation of the switch in the door lock is NOT purely mechanical as in the older door lock. Pressing the striker/catch into the lock will NOT close the contacts between terminals 5 and 6. Some magic happens inside the door lock mechanism through the PTC that closes this switch. This same magic is probably responsible for the delay in releasing the door latch. This drove me crazy for a while as I thought the lock and switch Assy was defective.

I unscrewed the two screws and replaced with new door striker and used the same two screws I took out. It took me seriously less than 2 minutes and I am a woman!

Removed 2 screws , unplugged the old switch , replaced with new one and secured with screws . Easy !!

Unable to get the door hinge off the machine after 6 years, one screw would not budge and was beginning to strip the head. If you take the door apart while still mounted to the hinge, you must have another person hold the door pieces securely, or you will likely break the tab on the front door piece that fits into the hinge bushing. Don't let that happen! Easy does it, hold it still, unscrew all the screws and gently pop the inside piece away from the outside piece, HOLDING IT SECURELY. Use gloves so you don't get cut, that glass is really sharp. Good idea to use some masking tape and cover the cut edges...I thought of this too late...wish I'd have done it. Lining up the bushings is probably the hardest part while getting the front and back pieces together with the big glass bubble secured, and again, HELD SECURELY by another person. This really was easy, but I wish someone had mentioned whether to take the hinge off or not, unfortunately, I could not. I had to get creative, and the fix was perfect, even if I did initially break the tab that lines up the bushing...I wasn't spending ANOTHER $90 for the teensy tab being broken. It works perfectly with my fix - but it won't if you can't fix that tab! I was glad I didn't have to call a repairman!!!

Note on my Easy rating- I had to replace the belt a few years ago and it was tough to get it on the pulley. This time it went quickly. Unplug, remove back plate. Replaced stripped out pulley bolt which had become loose. Could not find a torque value. Placed belt on motor and worked it around the pulley with a regular screwdriver to keep it from slipping off. No problem, but last time I changed the belt I used vice grips to lightly hold the belt to the pulley while walking the pulley around with two screwdrivers leveraged against the tub. While I was working I discovered that both of the tub shock absorbers were broken. Parts on order.