ATF6700FE1 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

I unscrewed the two screws and replaced with new door striker and used the same two screws I took out. It took me seriously less than 2 minutes and I am a woman!

Removed 2 screws , unplugged the old switch , replaced with new one and secured with screws . Easy !!

Unable to get the door hinge off the machine after 6 years, one screw would not budge and was beginning to strip the head. If you take the door apart while still mounted to the hinge, you must have another person hold the door pieces securely, or you will likely break the tab on the front door piece that fits into the hinge bushing. Don't let that happen! Easy does it, hold it still, unscrew all the screws and gently pop the inside piece away from the outside piece, HOLDING IT SECURELY. Use gloves so you don't get cut, that glass is really sharp. Good idea to use some masking tape and cover the cut edges...I thought of this too late...wish I'd have done it. Lining up the bushings is probably the hardest part while getting the front and back pieces together with the big glass bubble secured, and again, HELD SECURELY by another person. This really was easy, but I wish someone had mentioned whether to take the hinge off or not, unfortunately, I could not. I had to get creative, and the fix was perfect, even if I did initially break the tab that lines up the bushing...I wasn't spending ANOTHER $90 for the teensy tab being broken. It works perfectly with my fix - but it won't if you can't fix that tab! I was glad I didn't have to call a repairman!!!

Note on my Easy rating- I had to replace the belt a few years ago and it was tough to get it on the pulley. This time it went quickly. Unplug, remove back plate. Replaced stripped out pulley bolt which had become loose. Could not find a torque value. Placed belt on motor and worked it around the pulley with a regular screwdriver to keep it from slipping off. No problem, but last time I changed the belt I used vice grips to lightly hold the belt to the pulley while walking the pulley around with two screwdrivers leveraged against the tub. While I was working I discovered that both of the tub shock absorbers were broken. Parts on order.

I simply read what another person wrote, which was ; Once I figured out that the shocks were broken it was very easy to fix. Remove back panel first. Then remove the control box on bottom left corner to gain access to the left shock.(I didnt have to do this part. I got this from front, bottom panel) Pinch the locking mechanism on the plastic locker bolts and remove the four bolts from both shocks. Replace with new shocks and replace control box and back panel. It probably took more time moving the washer to where I could work on it then it did to fix it. Works like new. ( it was just this easy)

1. Remove the spring clamp around the tub seal. 2. Pull back the tub seal in the area by the door lock switch. 3. Remove the switch assembly by removing two Phillips screws. 4. Remove connectors from switch. 5. Install connectors onto new switch. 6. Mount new switch on washer with two Phillips screws. Reinstall tub seal making sure to tuck it correctly on the washer frame. 7. Reinstall spring clamp.

Unplug. Remove front lower cover panel. The trick is getting the old pins out and the solution was the alternate method provided in the written instructions that came with the shock kit. Use a deep 13mm or 1/2" socket over the pin end to depress the locking tab. After that, it is just a matter of prying the pins out. I was able to salvage all of my existing pins and the new (different design which will hopefully hold up much better) shocks went in pretty easily. The shock kit was reasonably priced but replacement pin were incredibly overpriced, so I was motivated to salvage the ones installed.

This is the second part I have put on it and it still does not work. It is now leaking some also. So tonight I replaced it.

The latch that held the door broke off, and of course the washer would not work , I called around locally and the small part price was outrageous,I went on line and found Pats select,and the price of the part was 1/3 of the cost locally I order the part and even with next day delivery I saved money from buying it locally

I took off the face and top of washer changed the drain hose.and put it back together and it started leaking .word to the wise. mmake sure the back side of the drain hose that is not visable is all the way on then tighten.

Took the back off the machine. pulled out the old shocks and installed the new. Put the back on. Simple

This is a front loader and the video I saw was a top loader. I removed the oval shaped centerpiece off the back to reach the pump. I also removed the filter and cleaned it, I used screw type hoseclamp in place of the tension spring for easier assembly due to the cramped space. This helped the drain problem as did cleaning the filter. The no spin problem persisted and I ordered the door lock part. This part fixed the no spin problem.

the existing pin was in backwards and to get it out was a problem because there was not enough room behind the pin to get it out.also i thiugh there was 2 pins in the kit and there was only one.

Removed two screws on the back of the washer top to release the top on the washer. Slid the top off and removed it. Opened washer door and removed two screws securing the door lock assembly to the washer frame. Reached in from the top of the washer to get the door lock assembly. Unplugged the old door lock assembly in three places and plugged the new assembly in in the same three places. Placed the new assembly in the same place as the old one and secured it to the washer frame with the same two screws located on the inside of the door. Replaced washer top and secured two screws at the top back edge of the washer... Tried the spin mode and everything worked great!!!

I shut off the water supply and started a cycle to release the pressure on the valves. Unplugged the power. Removed the top by unscrewing two screws on the back. Unscrewed the water lines and snapped off the plastic retainer for the water lines and overflow tube. Disconnected the wires to the red, green and blue valves, as well as the small black sensor on the side of the valve assembly. I had to unlock and partially disconnect the overflow tube to allow me access to one of the mounting screws. Removed the other mounting screw and separated the valve assembly by pulling it firmly. I put a little silicone grease on the two rubber mounting grommets and inserted the new valve assembly and re-assembled screws, wire harnesses. Replaced the top and screwed it down.