ATF6500FG0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

Remove the front lower panel. Remove the 4 plastic pins mounting the shocks using 1/2 inch short socket to hold the detent down as per included instructions. All plastic pins were stuck in place so used needle nose pliers to pull or push out. Lube the pins with grease before reinstall to help them go through the new shocks. Use the included lock nuts to lock the four legs in place as low as possible. Start the washer and level each leg while running so you can tell if the vibration is going away. Tedious method but worked.

Simple. Remove the drive belt from the pulley. Next remove the retaining screw and remove the old pulley. Put the new pulley on the hub, then insert the retaining screw and tighten securely. Last, replace the belt over the motor and hub pulley. This was the most difficult part as the new belt was quite tight. But once I convinced myself it was the right belt a little more effort yielded results and the belt fit fine.

I unplugged the washer, turned off hot and cold water at the source. I wrenched off the 2 hoses from the washer (have a towel handy for the residual water in the hoses and keep them elevated until you can drain the residual water out into drain site, where you turn off the water supply). I removed the 2 screws that held the top panel on (back side top corners) & slide off top to see interior. I used screw driver to pop off plastic piece that secures 3 tubes (hot water, cold water & exhaust vent). I then unplugged all 3 wire harnesses from the water valve & temperature wire from left side [assuming you are standing at the back of the machine where you have to be to do all this work]. I then untwisted the exhaust vent plastic tube (large cream tube at far right in machine) & somehow managed to get it pulled out. I then unscrewed the 2 screws from the old water valve- one on left is easy, the one on the right is difficult due to lower position next to exhaust vent - I had to hold my other hand [thankfully I have small hands] under the screw location as my screwdriver was not magnetic so I wouldn't drop the screw into the machine). I then removed the valve assembly by pulling slowly backward & removed. I then just reversed the above to replace the new one. Not bad for my 1st washer fix ever. I've used it 5 cycles now and no issues.

Apparently the faulty switch was causing the washer to think that the door was open which would pause the wash cycle. The temporary fix was to disconnect/reconnect the door lock/switch assembly, thereby resetting the switch. Eventually though, the switch had to be replaced. The repair was simple. Unplug washer from power. Remove the metal band and spring from around the perimeter of the door seal. (I had to use needle-nose pliers for this step). Loosen the rubber seal near the door latch area only. Remove old latch by unscrewing the two screws, and disconnect all wired connections. Reconnect wired connectors using the new part and screw back on to the washer using the two screws. Reseat the rubber door seal and hold in place using the metal ring and spring you removed in the first step. Plug washer back in to power. That's it.

Your website made it very simple to identify the parts, and offered either a video or installation instructions. Couldn't have been easier. $550 was the quote I got to repair the washer, the parts with overnight shipping were $147 and my 30 minutes of time.

Remove 3 screws to remove door and remove all screws on back of door and had to pry up on the cover - new hinge assy set in ok and reasemble was easy but new hinge assy didn’t quite match mounting holes so a bit difficult to line back up

Removed top cover of washer to get to the door lock mechanism then used a phillips head screwdriver to remove door lock mechanism. I then replaced door lock mechanism with the new one I bought from PartsSelect. The repair job was very easy and took a total of 15 minutes to remove old part and install new one.

First called a repairman.Wanted over $300 to put a new door lock assembly in.Searched the web, found PartsSelect,bought part for less than $75,husband did repair in less than 30 min.
VERY happpy customer.

THANKS

Replaced pump, by removing back panel and removing the two screws holding the pump to the bottom of the machine. The only difficult aspect was dealing with the hose clamps, these were extremely awkward to work with in a confined space. The repair would have been less than 30 min if the hose clamps weren't so difficult to put back in place.

Close examination revealed cracked plastic inlet area. I removed top of machine any carefully was able to loosen an pull damaged (froze over the winter) part back to remove. Attachment screws difficult to access, had to use magnetic screwdriver attachment during reassembly. Always iffy when working with plastic parts.
Part arrived 2 days later, took about 40 minutes to install.

Paid $27 total for a shock kit to replace the 2 broken stock shocks. Replaced them. It turns out it was not the problem, but just a symptom of the spider bracket (mates inner SS drum to drive shaft) corroding and breaking causing the drum assembly to shake out of balance. Found out is a systematic problem with this model washer, and no matter what else you fix, this will break and kill it at some point. Piece of crap!

No spin, water+drain worked playing with settings. Dart 1-door switch. Got code-tested motor-ok. Replaced motor control board

Replaced the hinge. Took old one off, put new one on.
I did not need to use new screws so I have returned them for a refund. Old ones were just fine.
Customer service was excellent, providing a return label, letter and simple instructions for the refund. Waiting for it to credit on my account.

Found that the fill valve was leaking and clothes would be wet if not removed right away.
Removed 2 screws from back of top panel and removed panel.
Disconneced water lines and two screws held valve assembley to detergent dispenser and unplug wires from the 3 solenoids

E47 error code means control board or door lock. From reading other stories, I decided to try the door lock first since it is much cheaper. Frigidaire tech support was no help at all.

First I removed the "wire" and spring that hold in the rubber seal at the door.

Then I removed the 2 screws that hold the door lock in place.

Removed the door lock, unplugged the 3 connections, plugged the connections into the new door lock, screwed it back in and replaced the rubber seal and wire that holds it in place.

Runs fine now.