ATF6000ES1 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

After searching the internet, I found out that the error code flashing on my front loading washer was an easy DIY fix. I went into our local big box home improvement store who told me to go to their online store for the part I needed. I did but had zero luck. I found the part I needed here and found a great video online which walked me through the repair. The part arrived and it took less than 10-mins to be done and have a working washer again. Thanks for the great service! From a working mom in NC

Replaced the shocks. It was easy

unscrewed broken one and screwed the new one in place.

I followed the instructions enclosed with the parts and removed the front access panel. Following the instructions for removal of the shock absorber mounting pins for the mount on the left hand side of the washer (as observed from the front) was difficult. I depressed the pin using my finger and I used a small nut driver to push the pin out. The nut driver was smaller than the pin and helped push the pin completely out. Even so, this require a lot of effort and I cut my hand when it slipped (no job worth doing always requires a little bloodletting). Installation of the replacement shock absorber in this position required moderate effort but went well. After a lot of effort trying to remove the pins on the shock absorber on the right hand side of the washer it became obvious that it was impossible to do it from the front of the washer. Other objects in the washer obstructed access to the pins. So I had to remove the back panel of the washer to aid in accessing the pins. At this point I required the assistance of my wife to depress the tab on the pins while I pulled on the pins with a pair of pliers’. The bottom pin has an obstruction where the pin pulls out. Removing the pin required quite an effort and nearly broke the pin (I guess that is why a replacement pin is in the kit). We installed the pin for this bottom mount in the opposite direction than the original pin was installed. I am sure that I saved a lot of money by doing this myself, but I would not recommend others to do it themselves.

I replaced doorlok as every one sujested but that did not fix it I then replaced thr control panel with a new upgraded one. It is not that simple for an amature. New control came with one of the control shafts missing had difficulty getting it in position so so control would be on right function. after all that I found diagnostic instructions taped to bottom of washer

I found this wonderful web site, after removing the cover and running a diagnostic to find it was either the door lock or the TCP control board. Control board unable to find any information on was scared to call the repair man as they usually cost about $500.00. I am a single mother and order the door lock and just like that I was able to repair it myself. Thanks you so much!!!

Turned off electricity. Unscrewed top panel. Took off top panel. opened door. Unscrewed door lock. Pulled lock up. Unplugged connections. Plugged in new part, positioned, and screwed in. Replaced top panel

Wow - that was quite the project. The directions that come with it are not the most clear. First of all, when it is time to pull the bellows and spring off, just plan on pulling as hard as possible. I used some Channel Locks to grab the bellows, as my hands just couldn't hold on. Two people would make it easier. The toughest part is getting the spring back on. My advice is to remove the yellow tubes from the black spacers and just use the black part.

Replacing the door strike is very easy. Two screws. The broken pieces stay in the door lock/switch assembly. The first time I got them out with needle nose pliers. A year later it happened again and this time I had to replace the lock/switch assembly. I followed procedure others mention here: Two screws at back of washer release the top. Slide that back. Then undo the two screws in the front of the assembly and lift it out, and replace. The important thing is that the door on the washer no longer aligns with the door lock/switch assembly, so we have to carefully (!) lift it to shut it. Do not slam. The issue with the door arises because instructions say to keep the door open so that mold does not grow in the basin. But the hinge on the door is not strong enough to support the door as it stands open when at rest over the years and it has begun to give way. This washer needs a new and stronger hinge. Meanwhile, do not slam your door. Shut it gently, lift if necessary, even on a new machine!

Washer was shipped by military. When it didn't work right I looked online and was told it might be the bolt for the shock so I ordered the part because the cost was nominal and called a repairman. Found out that in shipping moving bolts were installed. There was I sticker on the back of machine to explain but I didn't read it. Took out moving bolts and it works fine. The machine was missing one stabilizing foot and I did order that at the same time and I installed it easily.

Only two screws and it was done,easy repair

Installation of Part # 131-763-202 door lock and switch Assy.

Note that the only reasonable access to the lock and switch Assy is by removing the front of the gasket between the drum and the cabinet. It is also the only necessary access.

This problem is unique to older models. My experience was a bit frustrating but the solution was finally found. While it took me a long time (and extra parts) to figure out the problem, the solution is actually pretty easy.

IF you have an machine with a black striker/catch on the door, the installation is not entirely straightforward, The black striker/catch on the door has an L-shaped lower prong that engages the door latch. This striker/catch will NOT work with the newer door lock. The required striker/catch is part # 134-456-600. It is white, and has a diamond-shaped upper prong.

When you remove the older-style lock (Part # 1231-269-400) that accepts the black striker/catch, you will immediately notice that there are more electrical connections on the new part than on the old. This requires some minor rewiring.

The two connections (Bl/W and w) that go to the latch solenoid are unchanged and attach to the brown solenoid on the new part.

The arrangement of the other connections on the new lock/latch is as follows (numbering is mine)

1 2 3 4 5 6

Terminals 2 and 3 are the “PTC” and must be connected to the red (double) and white wires that are on a special double plug. The plug must be cut off and replaced by regular (F) spade connectors. DO NOT be tempted to insert the double plug into the new lock. Although it fits, it does NOT work.

Connect the two door-lock switch wires (Bk and Bk/R) to terminals 5 and 6.

Note that with the new lock, the machine has to rest a while before the catch is released, the door catch is not released as soon as the door-lock light goes off.

Note also that the actuation of the switch in the door lock is NOT purely mechanical as in the older door lock. Pressing the striker/catch into the lock will NOT close the contacts between terminals 5 and 6. Some magic happens inside the door lock mechanism through the PTC that closes this switch. This same magic is probably responsible for the delay in releasing the door latch. This drove me crazy for a while as I thought the lock and switch Assy was defective.

Super simple, unscrewed the existing screws, removed broken piece, attached piece, screw it in. Done deal!

Removed 2 screws , unplugged the old switch , replaced with new one and secured with screws . Easy !!

Unable to get the door hinge off the machine after 6 years, one screw would not budge and was beginning to strip the head. If you take the door apart while still mounted to the hinge, you must have another person hold the door pieces securely, or you will likely break the tab on the front door piece that fits into the hinge bushing. Don't let that happen! Easy does it, hold it still, unscrew all the screws and gently pop the inside piece away from the outside piece, HOLDING IT SECURELY. Use gloves so you don't get cut, that glass is really sharp. Good idea to use some masking tape and cover the cut edges...I thought of this too late...wish I'd have done it. Lining up the bushings is probably the hardest part while getting the front and back pieces together with the big glass bubble secured, and again, HELD SECURELY by another person. This really was easy, but I wish someone had mentioned whether to take the hinge off or not, unfortunately, I could not. I had to get creative, and the fix was perfect, even if I did initially break the tab that lines up the bushing...I wasn't spending ANOTHER $90 for the teensy tab being broken. It works perfectly with my fix - but it won't if you can't fix that tab! I was glad I didn't have to call a repairman!!!