AT17M4W (DA25A) Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

Simple replacement of the icemaker solved the problem. I suspect the icemaker was overfilling resulting in water flowing into the ice reservoir.

This was about 10 time easier than I had expected (I'm in my 30s, a mom). I put this off for almost a year groaning that I would have to spend tons of money on a repair man. It was really no big deal and took under 30 minutes. I used the video from PartsSelect, and it was right on. I was initially worried because the description from the website said that the new ice maker didn't come with the 'harness" and I had no idea what that was. Its just the little set of wires that easy unclips from the old unit and pops right into the new unit. Mine was reusable, so pretty easy. The only minor issue I had was that the new bracket didn't line up comepletely with the hole in the fridge where the screw went in, but I solved that with adding a skinny washer. Would definetly recommend any common-sensed person to do this repair yourself.

I couldn't believe how easy it was since I am not the handiest guy. All it look was to switch over the wires and screw it to the inside of the freezer. I was back in business.

Shut off water and unplug fridge. Remove ice drawer. Unscrew one short nut underneath icemaker, and the two longer ones holding it to the wall of the freezer. Now remove white cover. It just needed a little jiggling w a flat head screwdriver to loosen it. Now you can see where the wire harness is connected, use the same flathead to depress the plastic pin holding it in place, and slide it out. Remove the wire harness from the metal clip on side of icemaker. Now you should be holding the old icemaker in your hands. Remove the bale carefully. Now install the bale into the new icemaker, while making sure it's in the 'down' or 'on' position. Bring the new icemaker into position, gently snap the wire harness into place, sliding the wire into the clip like it originally was. Fasten the three screws again. Then, finally, snap the white cover back into place. Slide the ice drawer back into position, turn on the water, plug the fridge back in and wait 30-45 minutes for your first batch of new ice cubes.

I watched the video on how to change the ice maker, very easily explained, and removed the old in about 10 minutes.After seeing how the old one came out it only took five minutes to install the new one. The appliance repaircompany wanted$120 just to diagnose the problem,i bought the part from partselect for$104 total. This is the forth time I've used this site and saved a ton of money.

Disconnected power--removed ice holder tray--removed ice maker end cap--disconnected electrical wires--removed one screw holding ice maker to refrigerator--lifted up on ice maker to remove it from two holders--took control wire from old icemaker and installed it on new one--reinstalled new icemaker in reverse order.

Rmoval and replacement is not at all complicated. (1)Reach behind and to the left of the icemaker and release the power plug. There is a release snap on th side of the plug. (2)Using a 1/4" nut driver remove the screw holding the icemaker to the "L" bracket at the bottom of the icemaker. (3)Using the nut driver loosen two self taping screws holding the top of the icemaker to the side of the freezer compartment.(4)Lift up on the icemaker to remove it. (5)remove the white plastic cover from the front of the icemaker (pry out at the bottom) and snap it onto the new icemaker. (6)Remove the wire sensor arm from the old icemaker and place it on the new one. (7) Remove the cable assembly (plug) from the old icemaker and fasten it to the new one. (8)Secure the new icemaker in place using the reverse order as the removal. The icemaker will take a little longer to make its first batch of ice as it will have to attain its proper operating temp (0 degrees to 2 degrees F).

Received the part the day after ordering. Appreciated the quick service and repair took less than a minute.

Since I had more than one issue, I decided to replace the entire ice maker. All I needed was a nut driver and it took 5 minutes. Three hex screws and unplug the wire harness and the whole unit came out. I changed the harness over and installed the new unit. I left for work and came home to ICE. It was Great!!!

1. Viewed the video furnished (very helpful) 2. Turned off circuit breaker (avoids having to move the refrigerator), took my chances and left the water on 3. Removed the ice bin 4. Removed bottom retention screw, loosened the top two screws 5. Lifted the old ice maker free of top two screws 6. Used the bright flashlight to see how to release the rear electrical connection 7. Placed old unit on toweling, removed the electrical harness, the bail and the lower retention offset bracket (needed because the Kenmore's bottom retention is toward the center of the ice maker) and reinstalled them on new unit, taking care to maintain the original harness clip method 8. Carried the new unit to the refrig and installed the rear harness connector, then lifted it to mount on the top screws, forced it down to correct position, installed lower screw and tightened all three. 9. Placed bail in 'Operate' position, Installed bin and turned on the power. 10. Next morning, success!

Once I received the new icemaker, I removed the old one by loosening the two upper screws and removing the lower. The wire connector came out easily. The wire and the bale from the old unit had to be transferred to the new unit. Then the new unit was reinstalled and the wire plugged back in. It took several hours for the cubes to begin dropping.

Partselect was great, but I "Gilligan-ed" on the fix changing both the icemaker AND water feed solenoid, BEFORE determining the white rubber water feeder tube that installs from back of fridge and feeds ice maker tray inside of freezer was frozen/ blocked. Make sure you check this FIRST, by proding a screw driver up the tube inside freezer and/ or pulling feeder tube out from back of fridge. If the blockage is substantial enough, it will make removal difficult until melts and tube contracts. Good luck!!

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

The part came in 5 days from time order. take less then 10 minute done. part work well, have ices again, Thank you Part Select. we don't have to buy a new Rerigerator