ARH6700LL (P1142637NLL) Amana Range - Instructions

Really easy but in this model there are 2 versions of the sensor, male and female. The website didn't have any place to see that. So the first sensor that came was male but we needed the other. After calling they sent me a return form and sent the new part (which was actually much cheaper) overnight and it went in very quickly. Would check this out again when anything went wrong. they are great folks to work with.

Removed and replaced above named parts, rewired.Be sure to tighten all nuts that secure wires. I believe this is what caused the problem.

Turned off power to unit.
Tilted up Glass top and removed two screws holding rear hinges to range. Then I unplugged wire harness from lower range and placed the Glass top facing down on counter top with towel for cushion. Removed 1 screw holding center of burner to support frame, two alignment screws on perimeter, and two screws holding support frame to glass top. This allowed me to slide out the old element with all wiring connections intact.
Placed the new assembly in same location under support frame, noting numbered positions of two alignment screws from old unit. This is necessary to properly align heater to surface glass. Replaced all screws connecting burner to frame. Then I removed each wire one-by-one from old unit, reconnecting to same location on new unit.

Replaced top in reverse order from removal. Powered on the circuit breaker and verified proper operation of dual unit with large/small selecttor switch. Total time to repair about 30 minutes.

easy to put in

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

1 - Turned off electricity to the cook top.
2 - Removed the range top from the cutout in the counter.
3 - Removed the smooth top by removing the screws around the perimiter of the smooth top.
4 - Removed the screws securing the corner closest to the dead switch.
5 - Removed the screws holding the channel, onto which the infinite switched were attached, to the frame of the cooktop base.
6 - Removed the dead switch by removing the screws that hold it to the channel.
7 - One by one move the wires from the old switch to the new one.
8 - Reversed the process, 6 - 5 - 4 - 3 - 2 - 1, to put the cook top back together.

All in all the part was an exact replacement and the repair went really well.

1. Slide the Oven door out of its hinges after removing the screws - see Owner's manual.
2. Place door on floor with the inside face on the floor.
3. Remove screws on side and bottom of door and the lift away the side stamped pieces.
4. Remove screws as they becom visible and lift away the pieces till you reach the inside glass.

Remember the sequence and be careful not to strip the Phillips screws when unscrewing.

first I unplugged the stove,took the screws out of the pan that holds the element to the stove, then unplugged the element.then I plugged in the new element, then screwed the screws into the pan that holds the element into the stove. it was very easy.

Pulled stove out and unplugged it (energized wire at burner even with burner turned off) Removed screws to lift cook top Removed burner support brace Removed three screws to remove burner Removed connections from old burner, installed on new burner Replaced screws in burner to brace Replaced burner brace Lowered cook top and installed screws Plugged in stove and pushed it into space

Regarding my right side oven door hinge replacement, P/N PS2172201

After reading that other people had trouble threading the screws into the new hinge, I looked at the drilled mounting holes in the new hinge. Neither hole was threaded. The smaller hole used a self tapping sheet metal screw which works fine. The larger hole gets a machine screw and will not self tap. Since the instructions say put the screw in "once" to tap the holes before installing the hinge, I tried this. It doesn't work, regardless of what the instructions say. The larger hole should come from the manufacture threaded. I do have a tap and die set so I tapped the hole myself. After that, the installation is a 5 min. ordeal.

Take the two screws, one on each side, out that hold the oven door on the hinges. The door will then pull straight off the hinges. Take the storage drawer below the oven out. Unscrew the top and bottom hinge screws and pull the old hinge out from inside at the bottom. Put the new "threaded" hinge into position and hold from the bottom, inside. Screw in the two screws, large one on the top end, and put the door back on. You can open both hinges about 30 degrees to allow the door to slide back on the hinges easily. Put the last two screws in that hold the door to the hinges and you are done.

Really very easy and saved several hundred dollars in repair bills. I might add that my hinge arrived on time 3 or 4 days after the order was placed.

Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.

Sincerely
Peter from Maryland

Turned off circuit breaker and unplugged. Opened oven door and removed 3 screws holding the range top to the range. Lifted top and proped open with a wooden block. Removed all 5 wires to the element and drew a diagram of where they came from noting the color code. Removed two screws holding the bar that supported the element
and dropped slightly while removing the two standoff screws holding the element in place.
slide the element out. The problem was that the element received from partselect.com did not physically match the terminals on the original. this required me drill out a brad on the terminal block cover to see how the terminal block was wired. I discovered that the different color wires on the old element went to physically different terminals on the new one. This was even though I had returned the first element received, got a new part no from matag and reordered.
there are tiny markings on the terminal block that helped show the way. Be sure to find them and rewire according to these markings. 1a 2a 1b 2b as the terminal locations may be different.
I am happy with the partselect,com and their attention to trying to get me the exact replacement.
Also happy with their return policy.

Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.

left side hinge was broken. I removed 2 screws to release the old hinge and replaced it with the new hinge.
Part select.com made it easy to pick out the part from the diagram supplied on the web site. After it was ordered it arrived 2 days later.

I removed the two screws and pryed out the old hinge. I then put in the new hinge. The new one fit well. I went to screw it in with the supplied screws. The screws not only did not fit the hole tapped in the hinge (too big, different tread) but both screws were different from each other. They were different sizes and different types all together. I tried re-using the screws from the originol hinge but they also did not fit. I then got my own self tapping machine screws and finished the job. This job should not have been that hard. If they had supplied the correct screws, It would have taken all of five minutes.