ARG7600WW (P1141298NWW) Amana Range - Instructions

opened up the oven to locate the position of igniter

disconnected igniter and checked the continuity of the igniter to find that I had an open circuit

once I found out the igniter was no good I google for appliance parts and found parts select had the best prices that I could find. I called a couple local parts stores and there prices were definately inflated. I chose to go with parts.select.com
I receive the part in two days! I installed the new part within 15 minutes and turn on the oven to have it light almost instantly. I won much praise from my wife. Parts.select.com recieves my praise for ease and quickness of part delivery.

left side hinge was broken. I removed 2 screws to release the old hinge and replaced it with the new hinge.
Part select.com made it easy to pick out the part from the diagram supplied on the web site. After it was ordered it arrived 2 days later.

I removed the two screws and pryed out the old hinge. I then put in the new hinge. The new one fit well. I went to screw it in with the supplied screws. The screws not only did not fit the hole tapped in the hinge (too big, different tread) but both screws were different from each other. They were different sizes and different types all together. I tried re-using the screws from the originol hinge but they also did not fit. I then got my own self tapping machine screws and finished the job. This job should not have been that hard. If they had supplied the correct screws, It would have taken all of five minutes.

Had to take entire back panel off, to disconnect wiring. Once disconnected, removed two screws holding up igniter in oven. Pulled it through and removed from holder, Be careful new igniter very fragile. Reconnected, put panel back on, then turn on to verify, all went well, fully operational.

Removed the door and old hinges and reinstalled the new hinges and added some screws to better support the door ( it was bending a little at the middle and the door would not shut all the way. Now it works fine.

Repair can be done through the oven after removing the dip pan on top of the oven burner. The drip pan slids out - no tools needed. Remove 1 screw that holds the element close to the burner and 2 screws that hold the element cover to the stove. Remove bottom drawer and remove wire nuts from element wires. Reverse the process to install new element. Care must be taken to avoid damage to the element as it can be easily broken. I cut and stripped the wires coming from the stove valve as they were not in good shape after removing the wire nut.

Removed the two screws that hold the element in place. Disconnected the wire to the electrode. The screw holding the electrode to the burner plate would not unscrew so I had to drill out the screw in order to replace it with the new ignition electrode. A little more time involved but if the screw would have come out it would have been a 10 minute job.When I ordered the part from you it came very quickly and I will certainly use you again when I have any other issues.

I took out ruined racks. Cleaned the oven, getting rid of all the melted plastic. Once oven was sparkling clean, I slid in the new racks I bought from here. (The easiest part).

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I'm very thankful to have found this site. My oven has been "out of order" for over 3 years. It's so nice to be able to use it again! =)

Removed the rocker switch using a regular screw driver to lift the edge. Unplugged the wires from old switch. Hooked wires to new switch. Clipped switch back into place.

i read other stories and found after checking rotating heat switch with ohm meter found the igniter was the problem, pulled up on door and it came off, found bottom of oven pulled up and out, removed wing nut from deflector and two bolts and one wiring connector, just reversed removal to install new igniter and all complete, took about 20 minutes,

Instructions with parts are minimal. Looked at exploded drawing and read other installation descriptions on site. From the read I knew it was easier than it looked. Opened oven door. Unscrewed screws about 1/3 of the way up on both sides on inside face of door; these are the only thing attaching the hinges to the door. (Save all the screws you remove - they make work better than the ones with the parts.) The door can now be pulled off the range. I pulled the broken part out of the right side with pliers. Remove the screws below and about 8" up from the hinge on each side. When this is done you can pull the hinge out from the slot from the front. Open the new hinges up and they will slip through these same openings and position them as the ones you removed were positioned. Replace the screws. On the parts I received the lower screw holes on the hinge were not tapped. The original screws worked a bit like self-tapping ones. If you lose any parts or need to get to the hinge from the back you can take out the drawer.

Subject range is in a rental house and receives much use and abuse. The repair was necessary due to the door having 2, 1-2 inch cracks one on each side so the door bent outward. Obviously in the past when the oven door was completely in the open position much weight was placed on the door cracking the sides and bending the door. Consequently, when the oven was in use and the door was closed being that the door was bent outward heat escaped from the top of the door heating up the control panel. The control panel would get so hot that it could not be touched without burning the fingers. Replacing this range would cost approximately $2200, so we had to try to repair it. I went to the ParSelect website and ordered the part I needed.
Being that the oven door is heavy and large it took two people to disassemble and reassemble the door. We had quite
a wrestling match with the door (consider too, that we never do this type of job) but after about 3 hours our range was almost like new.
Disappointing that a replacement mylar cover for the control panel is no longer available at PartSelect. We would appreciate getting our hands on one as the existing mylar cover is cracked.
The oven has been successfully used since the repair and we have a good fit and the control panel is now only warm instead of blistering hot. FANTASTIC!
THANK YOU


Time will tell.

Sincerely

Craig and Judy Crouch

First, I unplugged power to the stove. Next, I removed the grills, ceramic burner discs, gas knobs, and glass plate (under the knobs). Next, I removed the 2 screws exposed by the control knobs. Next, I removed the 2 screws holding each burner assembly to the cook top. I then unplugged the wires attached to each burner assembly and set the assemblies aside. Now I was able to remove the top. Once removed, it was very easy to locate and remove the bracket holding the old sparking module. Then it was just a matter of removing the wires from the old module and attaching them to the new module... attaching the new bracket to the stove and then re-assemble the cook top. Honestly, this was a very simple repair... and probably took me longer to describe the steps than actually execute.

I first thought the burner was bad but after some
testing realized that the Spark Ignition Module was
faulty. You have to remove the screws from the four
burners to remove them and the stove top. Then it
is a fairly easy job to replace the module. Just be
careful to reconnect the wires in the correct places
that you removed them from the old module.

I took out the oven racks. There are 2 cross head screws and 1 screw with a hex head holding the igniter. Pulling out the igniter carefully and the wire nuts also came out. Replaced the wires using the existing wirenuts and slid the igniter into place. Replaced the 3 screws and DONE. Wish the igniters were a little cheaper as this is the third one to go weak. The new one draws about 3.2 amps while the old one only drew 2.85Amps, not enough to open the gas valve. Oven works Fine now. Thanks parts select for the rapid delivery.