ALW540RMC Amana Washer - Instructions

I used your great video for pointers as to what to do. I took off the front, raised the top, vacuumed the whole thing up, that took quite a while. Took out the drum. Did more cleaning. Then took off the old retaining rings with retaining ring pliers, took off the old drum rollers and support. Replaced with new roller supports, washer, roller, washer and retaining rings. Then I replaced the belt. Tested it and turned the wrong way and it came off. Replaced and tested it again and I don't know why but it came off. Replaced the belt again, tested fine. Then I replaced the felt pads and glides, they were worn. I ended up asking my husband to help hold the drum so I could get the front back on. Replaced front and door. Tried the dryer. Works great AND very, very little noise. Note: when taking the wiring off the light and the door switch, I took photo's of those places with my cell phone and had them to look at to make sure the wiring was correct.

Very easy repair. Removed the lower front panel of the washing machine (two screws) with nutdriver.

Removed hose clamp with pliers. Removed hose from machine. Replaced hose and ran thru a full cycle to check for leaks.

No leaks, back in business in under an hour. This time includes going out to garage and gather the two tools needed for the job and cleaning up the water that came out of the hose during the removal process.

took the belt out and took the thing out and fixed then put it back.

I unplug the power plug, turned off water supply and unsrewed the water lines connected to the clogged valve.I unsrewed six screws on the front of the washing machine and took the front panals off. lifted the the washing top and replace the hose and intake valve, which was shipped to me. put the top down and put the two front panals. reconnected the water supply to the new valve and turned the water back on. connected the electric plug.works as good as new.

I disconnected the water supply line to washer and moved washer into open area. I removed the front panel of washer to gain access to drain hose. I removed hose and reinstalled new hose. I did turn the hose holder inside the washer as it allowed the old hose to rub against the housing support of the washer causing the hose to leak. I was glad that I read the article that someone mentioned in their repair. The new hose was somewhat difficult to maneuver through the back of the washer and through the part that held the hose; otherwise, it was rather easy. Thanks for the feed back on your web page.

Removed the damaged legs, replaced with parts from this site and leveled the washer .

MAYTAG SAV2655AWW Series 10 Washer Tub Bearing and Seal Replacement

1. Unplug washer power cord and turn off water supply to hoses.

2. Remove lower front panel, 2 5/16” hex head screws at bottom of panel.

3. Remove front upper panel, 2 5/16” hex head screws at bottom corners of panel.
4. Slide washer out from wall far enough to provide clearance to lift washer top panel and control head.

5. Remove 2 5/16” hex head screws securing washer lid panel to side panels and lift lid.

6. Pull fabric softener dispenser from agitator, pulls off easily.

7.Remove agitator upper section, pulls off easily. Remove ½” hex head retainer bolt from inside agitator.

8.Remove agitator base section, pops up, place fingers under each side and pull up gently.

9. Remove tub top ring by pushing down at each clip and then prying out lightly to disengage clip, 8 total. Orientation for reassembly is done by referencing the double tabbed clip on the right side of the outer tub.

10. Remove inner tub retainer bolts, 4, ½” hex head. Clean off mounting hub to expose 4 pry slots located exactly opposite each other. Using wide flat head screw driver carefully and evenly pry up inner tub off of aluminum mounting hub. Once tub is ¼” or more raised a wider blade pry bar will help prevent cracking or breaking the inner tub.

11. Remove plastic seal cup from transmission shaft by turning it counter clockwise with a medium to large pair of water pump pliers.

12. Remove inner tub aluminum mounting hub by using a hammer and broad flat faced punch or drift and driving the hub counterclockwise. You can be aggressive about this as kit comes with a new hub. It will loosen at some point and can be unscrewed by hand. The transmission shaft threaded section must be thoroughly cleaned to remove all sealers or debris from the threads or the new hub in the kit will not thread on correctly and will be excessively tight. Lightly place anti-seize lubricant on the threads before putting on new hub and seal cup.

13. Remove water pump hose from outer tub. Then remove second hose from water pump.

14. Remove “Fill Sensor” hose. Back left quadrant of outer tub, pulls off easily.

15. Remove 6 tub ( 3 pairs) stabilizer springs, plus 1 spring in very back. Try to watch how back one connects to tub mount. If you miss it hooking it back up is pretty straight forward. Only secures one way. Channel locks or vise grips work best for working with springs.

16. Disconnect wire harness from motor drive assembly and tub frame mount.

17. Pull tub and motor drive assembly out of washer cabinet. Lift carefully by shaft and tub mount frame.

18. Remove 6 outer tub retainer bolts and 2 upper motor frame bolts.

19. Lift tub off motor frame and set on its side carefully to prevent damage to “Fill Sensor” back left side.Use a slide tool to pop bearing assembly out of tub bottom.

20. Clean the tub, bearing mount surface, remove all grease from shaft and shaft spline sealing O-ring.

21. Wet new bearing seating surface and tub mounting surface lightly with water and press in new bearing by hand.

22. Clean both inner and outer tubs inside and out thoroughly. Clean hub mounting threads on motor shaft thoroughly.
There can be no residue of any kind in those threads or new hub will be difficult to impossible to screw on without damaging it.

23. Reverse dis-assembly procedure to reassemble machine. Recommend replacing drive belt and idler pulley if found to be excessively worn or damaged. If brake assembly is heavily worn or pads are cracked this is the time to replace those as well.

After turning on the machine set to the spin cycle and acertaining that the problem was not a switch or the motor the lower cover was removed (Two sheet metal hex head screws)with appropriate socket. The failure of the belt was self-evident, having sprayed itself in granuals, the belt itself having parted with easy removal.
A search of the internet produced the order for drive belt, which arrived in a timely manner trough Fedex.

Replacing the belt was the most labor intensive part of the process. No mirror being available a CD was placed in the base of the machine in order to view what fasteners (Three torx head) fasened the pump to the motor assembly. Removal of the pump was necessary in order to replace the belt.

The removal of the fasteners required that three holes (120* angular spacing, 1/2" diameter, located on the pump fastener bosses) be drilled in the machine base in order to
remove and replace. This required setting the machine on its side. (Tell the engineers to put an inspection plate there in order to negate having to drill the holes. Thankx.) Pump assembly was lowered off driveshaft and belt replaced. Tensioner set on belt after pump assembly fit to driveshaft and torx fasteners replaced and tightened. Machine powered up, checked for function. In use. Lower cover replaced. I'll be using your buisness for parts again, no doubt.

Laid washer on its side and had to remove the motor,replaced the pulley and belt replaced the motor and put all parts back together washer spins and runs like it did when it was new.we did not need the screw or nut but did not know when ordering parts

I read what the others had done and thought it was the lower bearing so I originally tore it down and replaced just the lower bearing.

Unfortunately, after 2 + hours of doing that and putting it back together, it still didn't fix the problem. So I read more reviews and others claimed to use this kit and that it fixed the problem. So I ordered the kit.

BTW, Parts Select rocks!!!! They get me the part within about 2 days every time.. Great Service! Thanks guys!

Anyhow, part came in, knowing how to tear this thing down now, I was able to get to where I needed to be within about 45 minutes.

2 things that were difficult.

The first was removing the plate at the bottom of the tub. This is the aluminum plate that looks somewhat like a spoked wheel. Maytag has a tool for this. Without it, you must go at it with a small punch on one of the spokes and carefully tap the seal until it turns. You may have to try it from different angles to loosen it up but it will eventually give way..

Once you get that off, the second little piece of joy is actually removing the seal from the bottom of the tub. Here again, Maytag offers a tool to remove this. Without it, and with years of this rubberized fitting mounted in this plastic tub and corrded with water and crap... you will need to create a bearing puller.

I did so with a 2X4 board straddled across the bottom of the tub. I used an 8 inch lag bolt, drilled a hole through the 2X4 and placed the lag bolt throuigh the board and through the center of the bearing. I attached a large washer and nut to the bottom side of the bearing and then began to tighten the bolt on the other side of the board. By tightening the bolt, the board created alot of tension but not enough still to seperate it from the tub. With the tension on the bearing, I turned the tub over and tapped it with piece of wood the size of the bearing and a rubber mallet. It popped right off. The rest was just reassembly.

Don't forget to remove the sticker backing on the felt gasket to hold the gasket in place while you screw the tub back together...

The good news... Super quiet! So, about 3 hours.... (I had to come up with the idea to remove the bearing and build it) and it's all done..

Yeah.... Fun Saturday.

I found about 2-3 baby socks stuck in the pump and couldnt remove them so I had to replace the part. Unfortunately I found this website AFTER I took the bad pump off. So I ended up removing the lower front panel and then flipping the washer upside down and removing the bottom of the washer and taking the pump off because I couldnt see any other way to get it off. The new pump arrived very quickly and I put it back on and put the bottom panel back on and flipped the washer back right side up. I certainly made it more difficult then it had to be but it was still fairly easy. Now I see all I needed to do was remove the motor to get the pump off. Oh well.

Remove the front of the washer. Remove the pump and motor assembly using the 1/2 inch socket. Remove the pump from the motor and hoses from the pump. Replace the bad idler pulley and place new belt on pulley. Reassemble the pump to the motor and install the assembly back into the washing machine. Reasemble the hoses and put belt on driven pulley for the drum. Reinstall the front cover.

simple as removing front panel from washer held on by two screws and the hose was right their. Took a few minutes to disconnect it from the pump and pull it out through the rear, then feed the replacement in and reverse the process. Piece of cake. Thank you.

I takened the 4 bolts out of the motor assimbley, and droped the whole thing out where I could see the screws that held the water pump on, and I took them out, and lifted the water pump, and put the belt in place, and the new pully on , and the new spring in place. Then I reversed the proseger.
It works like a new one.

This washer was "professionally" repaired six months ago....that being said, I found two of the three Torx screws holding the pump to the motor to be lying inside the cabinet. This allowed the pump to move and wallow out the seal. Replaced the pump and replaced the screws correctly. No leaks, no problems. Pump is an exact replacement from PartSelect and ease of installation was no problem. Would suggest if you are going to replace the pump, order the three screws and replace them too.