ALW210RMC Amana Washer - Instructions

Unplugged washer then took back off control panel. Removed clamp and tube from pressure switch. Pushed in tabs with a screwdriver and lifted top. Removed clamp and broken tube. Put new tube in place and tighten clamp with nutdriver. Closed top and put other end of tube on pressure switch with clamp. Put back on control panel and plugged in. Clamps are to big for application but do work. So far so good!

As the other posting said, it appears our problem was due to constant overloading, as an inspection of the machine with the bottom service panel removed clearly revealed all three milkstool legs broken away from the round center piece. My teen-agers are now aware that I am somewhat displeased about this.
My first action was to order the repair manual. In retrospect, it was only marginally useful as a job aid, but was essential in verifying ID of the part and understanding details of how the machine works. I started by following the manual which said to remove the agitator. The agitiator didn't want to be removed, even after repeated attempts and applications of varying amounts of both physical and vocal persuasion. So, I reconsidered what I really needed to be doing, and dislodging the agitator (and subsequently all of the spline seals) really wasn't necessary. I just needed to get to and replace the crushed milkstool (and leave everything with a seal alone!).
So, Phase 1 - I removed the front panels, and tilted up the top. I then disconnected the power cable to the motor and the inlet/outlet hoses to the pump (more on my haste in this step in a moment...). The wiring harness is held in place on the machine back and milkstool by plastic retainers that release when compressed. I then disconnected the green ground wire, the panel that holds the blue water inlet valve assembly, the black hose on top of the tub and the clear air pressure hose (just pulls straight out of the tub side connector). This allowed the top to be removed and set aside. I then pulled the drain hose through and pulled the plate that holds it in place from the back, then removed all the screws that hold the cabinet to the base, then set the cabinet aside. Next, I disconnected all 7 springs from the base to the tub, and the tub was free. I pulled the tub from the base (not too heavy) and inverted it to get at the motor/pump/milkstool.
Phase 2 - gently removed the idler spring and removed the belt from the pulley. Pulled 10 1/2" self-tapping screws that hold the milkstool to the tub and the motor to the milkstool (these can be discarded as you get new ones with the milkstool). Now pulled 6 screws that hold the brake pads in place, and pulled the brakepads. The manual says to replace the pads whenever pulled, but these didn't look terribly worn, and work just fine after reassembly. The pulley then came off easily, and then subsequently so did the milkstool (with integrated bearing). Reassembly was the reverse of disassembly, and all seemed logical enough until I got to reattaching the hoses to the pump. The manual does not make it clear which one goes where, and I forgot to take a picture of that part of the machine before dismantling. Long story short, I put them on backwards, and you'll probably not be surprised to hear the machine didn't work as anticipated when we turned it on! (wouldn't spin, wouldn't pump out the water and made a nice puddle in the laundry room). Once we ladled out all of the water from the tub and reversed the hoses, everything worked fine. So - words to the wise (1) mark hoses, wires, etc with tape, grease pencil, whatever works for you BEFORE disassembly and (2) take close-up digital pics as you progress.

Overall, this repair should have been quite easy. The problem was removal of the old seal nut assembly. It was a bear to remove, and ultimately I had to surgically remove it from the washer in pieces. Unfortunately I broke the outer tub (plastic) in the process of getting the nut off. Once I had the silly plastic nut off, and the tub repaired the balance of the repair was absolutely easy.

My summary: This repair is really easy IF the plastic seal nut assembly comes off easily. If it doesn't budget easily, go ahead and chip it apart to get it off, being careful not to damage the threaded part of the agitator shaft. The new one will completely replace the chipped away nut.

took off the front cover.
disconected the wiring from moter.
removed the motor.
replaced the brake pads one at a time used a flat screw driver to spred the plates apart.

The Plasatic Helix Drive Lup
took bolt at the botom of shaft off
this released the Helix drive lug.
took old lug off and inatalled new
replaced bolt and washer.

I removed the front cover to gain access to the motor. I saw that the belt was starting to get chewed up so I removed it. While looking at the schematic on Parts.com I noticed the Idler Pulley Wheel was much larger then one currently on the machine. I ordered that also in case I needed it. I needed it. Once I replaced the belt and the pulley the machine ran better then ever. Originally I thought I just needed the belt but thanks to Parts.com I realized I needed a little more. Thanks.

First remove the bottom front access door. The helix drive nut and pulley were both chewed up. I pushed the pulley up into the brake assembly to make sure it released properly. Mine released and the drum spun freely (I had my 8 yr old assistant turn the drum first). The helix nut turned with the drum so I assumed the transmission was good to go. Once my drive nut and pulley came in (two days), [UNPLUG WASHER AND DISCONNECT WATER] I took the top front cover off and lifted the top up and back on it's hinges. Next I disconnected the motor wiring harness, the bleach tube, the fill hose, the six drum springs, and the drain hose from the pump. Pulled the drum out of the shell and flipped it upside down. I took off the helix drive nut and removed the 8 bolts that hold the "milk stool and bearing assembly" and motor to the drum, also 2 screws that go into the plastic reservoir. I raised the milk stool enough to get the pulley out. (Belt was good) Put in new pulley and pushed the milk stool back down. (I was careful to keep the bearing on the shaft splines). Put the belt back on the pulley and idler. Put in all the bolts and put back together in reverse order. I recommend starting with the back drum springs, that's how I did it and it was easy. About an hour. Good luck.

first I unplugged the electrical plug then I removed the lower covet by taking out the 5/16 screws. I then took out the 5/16 screws that hold the top part of the front cover and removed it.
I then worked the belt off the aggitator pully and removed the hoses from the pump. I then used a 1/2 in soclet on long extension th remove the four bolts that hold the motor and pump assembly. I then worked the assembly out of the cabinate and using a long #20 torx bit I removed the pumfrom the housing. I removed the belt, then I removed the housing off the motor and replaced the Idler bracket with the idler pully. I then re-assembled it in the reverse of taking it apart. Works great with the new idler and belt.
David Hilton

I took off the lower front panel and “watched” with a flashlight during the spin cycle. I could see that the idler pulley was intermittently stopping and starting. The back of the drive belt was also worn in the center. When the idler pulley was moving, it squeaked, when it didn’t, the friction wore the belt and made the smell.

To replace the Idler Pulley Wheel:
1. Take off the lower and upper front panels to access the motor assembly.
2. Remove motor by loosening four bolts.
3. Remove spring that applies tension to the idler pulley.
4. Remove the electrical connector by squeezing the plastic tab on top.
5. Remove hoses by gripping clamps with pliers (put down rags first to catch water)
6. Unhook belt from tub pulley
7. Remove 1 cabinet spring to make it easier to remove motor
8. Remove motor.
9. Remove allen screws holding the pump to the motor
10. Remove the pump and belt (take note of the location of the belt before removing).
11. Remove retaining ring to replace Idler Pulley Wheel (this was probably the trickiest part; I used a very tiny needle nose pliers and straight screwdriver).
12. Replace the washers on either side of the Idler Pulley Wheel as well as the retaining ring.
13. Replace belt.
14. Reassemble in reverse order.
15. Be thankful for the money you saved on a service call.

I searched "sav2655aww repair" (my model number) on the internet, and found people who had the same problem - and did the same repair. Some put up very detailed instructions.
Anyway, with instruction, it was a pretty easy job. Remove the front panels, disconnect the hoses from the water pump, unplug the electrical connector from the motor, remove the 4 bolts that hold the motor mount, and slip off what was left of the belt. To replace the belt, I also needed to temporarily remove the water pump (3 torx screws) from the motor, because the belt snaked in between those two parts. Once replaced, I remounted the motor, slipped the belt over the main wheel (under the tub), set the belt tension wheel to take up the slack, and reattached the hoses and wires. Surprisingly, the belt replacement took care of the noise (the whole unit would sway out and repeatedly hit the front panel during a wash - I suppose it wasn't agitating or spinning correctly). Works like new.

Unplug the washer to prevent shock while handling motor. Remove the front botton access panel. Move the drive belt off the idler pulley to provide slack to move belt off the other pulleys. Note position or take picture of belt position before removal to aid in getting it in the correct position for reinstallation. Move the hose clamps up the hoses far enough to remove the hoses from the pump. A towel is handy here as there is still a little water in the hoses and pump. Remove the four bolts holding the motor bracket to the bottom of the washer. The wiring to the motor does not need to be disconnected. Rotate the bracket with motor and pump attached so that the assembly is horizontal and the pump is to the right hand side. Use the torx bit to remove the bolts holding the pump in place. Install the new pump, being careful to get the drive belt in the proper position while doing so. Do not over tighten the bolts on the new pump since it is plastic. Rotate the motor bracket back to its original position and install the four bolts. Get all four bolts installed loosely before tightening any fully to insure the bracket is aligned properly and none of the bolts will be in a bind. Once the bolts are tight, put the drive belt on the small pulley and then work in around to position on the large pulley. Position the belt back into its position on the idler pulley. Put the hoses on the pump as far as they will go then slide the hose clamps back into their original position. Replace the bottom access panel and plug the washer back in.

Unplug washer, turn off water supply, disconnect hoses from washer valve(have bucket ready for water remaining in hoses), Remove bottom front panel by unscrewing two hex head screws near floor then pulling panel toward you and down, remove top front panel same as bottom to expose screws securing washer top, lift washer top and prop open or tilt back onto counter(hold washer lid when tilting back). The inlet valve is on the back right. Label and unplug wires, unscrew hose clamp and remove hose, go to back of washer and unscrew plate holding valve and remove. Mount new valve to plate and fasten from back of washer, reconnect hose and wiring, close cover and fasten screws, replace front covers and secure, reconnect water supply hoses(do not over tighten), turn on water and plug in washer.

Brake pad kit does not come with installation instructions even though it says it does. Remove bottom front panel from washer. There are three brake pads. One of mine (the right one) broke into three pieces and was found on the bottom of the washer. This is how I identified what was wrong. Run the washing machine on the handwash extra light cycle (you could use another cycle, I used this one because I believe it is the shortest), there is a point in the cycle where the disk clamping the brake pads separates from the brake pads and allows you to remove and replace the pads. During other parts of the cycle, the disk is clamped onto the brakes and you could not remove or install a brake pad. I removed the two black hose on the bottom right to get to the right brake pad. Have a 2 gallon bucket ready to collect the water if you did run the washer as above. With difficulty, I was also able to reach around the back side of the right brake pad. I used a socket wrench set. I then removed and replaced the left brake pad. I left the rear brake pad in place. I was not able to get to it.

The washer is four years old.
This is the second time I needed to replace this same drain hose on this same washer since I had the machine
There is only my wife ant myself maybe, 2 -3 medium size loads per week - why I would have two drain lines develop the same problem in almost the same location in two years is disconcerting
There must be a design problem with the clear plastic hose - Suggest Maytag go to a thick walled rubber hose
The hole is alway inside the washer on the bottom just after the hose bracket - I suspect that something rubbing causing a small pin hole to develop - when the condition first starts it is very difficult to located -There will be water under the washer
Run the washer and discharge the water - to locate

The replacement must be made through the lower front removable panel - and is easier to do if the pump return hose is also disconnected from the pump

Be very carful with the thin wall replacement hose - very light weight plastic - do not pull across the floor of washer - it could easily get damaged

Your company did a get job getting the part to me - The Fed Ex track system was great
I could tell exactly where the delivery was al all times -

To replace the pump and belt for the Maytag washer, you really need remove the springs and suspended the tubs. I needed help to pull the 2 springs out (high tension) with a big plier. I removed the 3 bolts that held the motor to the frame and flipped it out to the side to expose the 3 long screws that attached the pump to the motor. The pump was easily removed and replaced with the Philip screw driver. I preset the belt between the pump and the rotor before sliding the motor back in place. After botling the motor back into the frame and carefully pull and snap the spring back into the holes, I routed the belt around the pulley and turned it into the groove. This took some time to get it on properly as it is pretty tight. Once the cover was replaced, the washer worked as expected.

I suggest if you are replacing the pump, order the belt at the same time, you must remove the pump to replace the belt.