ALG643RMC1 (PALG643RMC1) Amana Dryer - Instructions

No work was required. I just slid the filter in a hole.

Had to call the repair center 3 time & view the video several times because the drum support roller would not fit on the new shaft. Even ordered the parts twice (with refund on first) to ensure the correct parts. The call in center could not help me & I was left on my own. I had to force the roller onto the shaft which was very difficult, Once the hole had gone onto the shaft, it was fine, but I had to take it off to install the shaft then gently drive the roller onto the shaft. It does roll free once over the outer edge. Installing the belt was not easy either. The video did not have a good picture of how the belt runs & not drawing was available, maybe it could be included next time for others

I only had to watch your video! The absolute BEST instructions ever. Your videos have saved me already $480 in repair bills in just one month. First my washer needed a snubber ring, and you had that video and then the dryer parts. Thanks again for being there!

Ordered thermal fuse and cycling thermostat

I don't have the model number right now, but you video was fantastic.

First off you open the top of the dryer by pressing in the the 2 spring clips with a putty knife or metal spatula if you don't have a putty knife. They are located on the same side as the door. Then remove the wires and label them or take a picture of them so you can put them back on the correct terminals. Remove the 2 5/16" screws and the lift up and pull out on the front panel, set it aside. Remove the 4 5/16" screws on the front bulkhead(the thing with the lint catcher on it) this is what the felt ring is attached to. I used brake parts cleaner and a putty knife to remove the old adhesive. Use High Temperature Silicone or some kind of High Temp adhesive to attach the felt ring. Make sure to place the white side of the ring onto the adhesive. Also there should be a rounded face of the ring and a flat face, make sure the rounded face is facing outward. Bead a good amount of adhesive onto the outer ring of the bulkhead and work the felt ring around inch by inch. Don't rush this process or you will have a mess. If you do its okay just use a rag and the brake parts cleaner to wipe down any excess adhesive. Let it cure for 24 hours, otherwise it might make your clothes smell like the adhesive and possibly ruin them. Before replacing the bulkhead back onto the dryer, replace the drum glides. They should be on two brackets below the felt ring. These are important and if they are damaged or missing it can cause more serious problems down the road. Put everything back in reverse order. Make sure the drum and the drum glides are lined up properly. Test the dryer while its empty.

On the Amana dryer, I had to remove the top panel. then the front panel to access the burner assembly. I also had to remove the gas pipe coming to the burner, because I replaced the tube burner assembly at the same time. There is only one screw that holds that back end of that gas pipe. The thermal flame sensor is on the left side of the burning chamber, with only one small Phillips head screw. just remove the 2 wires, keeping track of which terminal they belong. Just twist the sensor out of the small slot, and out it comes. The tube burner assembly is fastened with 2 screws. The entire burner assembly comes out in one piece, but be real careful not to bang the igniter when removing it. The coil assembly has 2 wires, which you cannot get wrong, because one has 2 prongs, the other has 3 wires.The local repair shop wanted 90 bucks per hour, plus parts, and I installed both the burner tube and radiant flame sensor for around $80.

Unplugged electrical cord to dryer. removed the front cover 2 screws on the bottom. Lifted front cover off. Unplugged the 2 wires going to the old flame sensor. Used nut driver to remove 1 screw holding the flame sensor in. Removed old sensor replaced with new one. Reattached the 2 wires back on to the new flame sensor. Tested. Flame stayed on longer! Dryer works great dryer is 20 years old and still running like new now. Part was the exact match I needed.

The first problem i had is that the idler pulley went out for the dryer drum. Part of the plastic pulley melted and the drive belt eventually broke. I got the parts to replace the idler pulley and belt from PartSelect. That was a pretty easy repair, but when i had it apart I noticed a small crack in the aluminum pulley on the motor drive shaft, I'm assuming because of the heat generated by the seized up idler pulley. I put it back together anyway. The dryer made it for 2 or 3 batches of clothes and the aluminum pulley on the motor shaft came apart. Turns out the only way to replace that pulley is to replace the motor. The cost for the new motor wasn't all that much and the dryer is in otherwise pretty good shape, so I ordered the new motor. The motor assembly was easy to replace and works great. Glad I was able to get it fixed without too much expense. I literally spent less that an hour altogether with both repairs. I was happy with the parts and service from partselect.com, they also have great how to videos.

Really easy popped the lid with a flat head screwdriver, then marked wires for door light and switch, took 2 5/16 bolts to remove front door, then 4 bolts also 5/16 to remove front panel but be care ful and remove drum belt then take panel and drum out. Then took a set of ring pliers to remove wheel slapped new one on.then reverse sreps to assemble.

For some time I have been using a lint filter that was bent and cracked. Recently it got much worse. I finally had had enough!. Went on line,found you, ordered what I needed, and TAA! DAA! In a few short days, hassle free clothes drying! Thank You!

im a car mecanic it was easy

I noticed my dryer wasnt turning so I decided to take it apart to see if I could fix it, I noticed my belt was almost to the breaking point and there was black dust everywhere. I looked at the idler pulley wheel and it didnt look right so i decided to replace that, the belt and noticed the felt pads were gone also and that can also effect the dryer turning so I replaced them also and put it all back together and it was working like it was brand new!

Removed lower panel. Disassembled air duct. Replaced part and reassembled. Unfortunately that didn't fix the problem. I did figure out that it is not temperature related like I originally thought. I jumped out the timer and the unit will run continuously, so no heat fault problem. I ordered the timer assembly today, I hope that does it, if not you probably won't hear from me because my wife is going to kill me! ha ha Take care, keep up the good work! Your place rules! Mike B Macedon, NY

Watched the on site repair video, which was very helpful. I placed the dryer on a tarp in the family room prior to dis-assembly. Using the putty knife to push in the spring latches holding down the top lid, and propping it up while removing the 2 screws, holding the front, disconnecting the wires to the light and door switches, noting the color coding of the wires. Removed the front drum support, drum to get access to the rear drum support rollers (2ea) and the idler pulley wheel. You will need snap ring pliers to remove the rollers. Also note the configuration to the drum belt. Placed a small amount of bearing grease on the rollers spindles and re-installed the rollers. Reinstalled the drum, belt, front drum support, hand spin the drum to check belt and drum. Reinstalled the front and wires, snap down the top lid and reconnected the dryer to laundry room utilities. Test run and Wa-La, a quiet dryer. I'm thinking the noise came from the idler pulley wheel, or one of the rear drum support rollers, but couldn't tell by looking at either of them. So it's a good idea to replace all three rollers.