ALG443RAW Amana Dryer - Instructions

I removed the front panels, lint screen, ductwork to fan, motor assembly, drum, drum rollers, and vent pipe to outside. I then cleaned years of accumulated lint and dust from the cabinet. Replaced the drum rollers, drum glide, idle pulley and motor assembly. The hardest part was getting my arm in to place the idle pulley onto the drive belt.

Not quite as show on your repair intructions. But, all in all not that difficult. Things went very well. However, in the midst of the repair I found I had to replace other worn out parts.

I first unplugged the dreyer from the wall, I then used the putty knife to push clips in on top of the dreyer and opened the top. I used a nut driver to remove the front panel and unplugged the light and door switch wires. I then reached under the drum and removed the belt, and then lifted the drum out of the cabinet. I used snap ring pliers to remove the rollers and replaced.them with the new ones. After installing the new rollers I placed the new belt around the the.drum and lifted the drum by the belt placing it back into the cabinet. With the drum back in place I reattached the front panel and turned the drum to make sure it was not hanging up on the felt rings. With the drum moving freely and the belt hanging down I layed back in front of the dreyer and put the belt on the motor and reached up to.the tension pulley and placed the belt under the pulley. Once the belt had tension on it I again manually rotated the drum to make sure it wasn't binding anywhere. All was good so I replugged the light and door wires, shut the lid and plugged the dreyer back into the wall socket, turned it on and it worked great. From start to finish it took about.40 minutes and half that time was spent cleaning out the cabinet which had quite a bit of lint. I have used the.dreyer several times since the repair, and this completely took care of the problem. I highly recommend ordering the rollers along with the belt as mine were well worn and it saved me from having to take it apart twice. All in all a very eazy do it yourself project.

Too simple to describe.

I would have been sick to have spent 100 bucks or more on a repair guy, or worse, several hundred on a new one. Six bucks and I'm back in action. I am only average handy, so anybody with a little talent can do this. I took the bottom front cover off first. Then opened the door and took the cover on the inside off. When you do this, you will have to disconnect wires from the door switch and inside light. Don't worry about it, they are pretty easy to remember what goes where, but if your scared, get little pieces of masking tape, write on it which connector it lands on, then tape it on the wire. The inside door cover will also take the vent and the connecting duct to the blower with it. You may have to wiggle the duct a little to get it off the blower. After that, I unfastened the top and lifted it back and out of the way. You should now be able to fully see the drum. No bolts, just slide it right out. If your belt is still around it, you may have to play with it a bit to get the tension off the belt. Once you got the drum out, you'll see the idler arm and pulley. I took the whole arm off (one nut and bolt) to make it easier to put the new pulley on. Once off, the hardest part of the job was to get the retaining ring off. If you got the right tool, it would be no sweat, but I didn't want to go to town, so I used two pairs of needle nose pliers to get it apart. New pulley slides right on, however, I would advise cleaning off any hardened grease on the idler arm connection and putting new grease on it. Put everything back together in reverse order. The belt can be a little tricky, but they have an awesome video on here, and once I watched it, had the belt on in 5 minutes. Buttoned everything back up just in time for kickoff. About an hour and a half work, less if I had the right tool to get the retaining ring off.

First I take off all front cover and then the dirt strainer next is the dryer drum holder next the top cover I lift up and so you room to set the dum belt

I was amazed just how easy it was. It would have been much quicker if I had a nut driver instead of a wrench. The video was great. Thank you!

I feel like I have a new dryer now. I replace 3 of the 4 main components using parts select. Not only did they ship next day, but the tutorial videos with Steven were right on the money and self explanative.

As you see I replaced ALL these parts, not because they were broken but some were a little worn and while I had it apart, might as well do a total maintenance job. Could not at first figure out the thumbing, but while inspecting, notice the belt was almost cut thru, could have gone at any time, one drum support roller was dragging as well as the idler pulley wheel. Could have sanded down all the axles for each wheel but might would have too much play after Also cleaned every part and nook and cranny while all was apart. Put everything together and it still....thumped. While running I held a flashlight underneath and around every part, and finally found the issue. The very back of the tumbler had a hair line crack about one inch long, causing the two pieces of metal to get in a bine while at the bottom of the rotation exactly between the two rollers. Soooooo, at 450.00 for a new one, I just used a screw driver, steel punch and hammer to mold in like I wanted and it quit making any nosy, applied HD steel tape on both sides so the crack will not catch cloths while drying and presto redneck engineering at its best...no more thumping and is as quite as the day we bought it, and since cleaning out all the internal ducks it dries much better and faster. Otta last several more years, yaha.

Disconnect power supply. remove two 5/16" machine screws from bottom front cover, pull out and down cover will pop out. open door and remove lint screen. Remove screws from top of dryer and pop it off and get out of the way. Now remove front panel and lint screen body. there are screws inside of dryer for screen body. Make sure to take photos of wires or make a diagram so you put them back correctly. Now you can remove drum and see pulleys. This is all pretty self-explanatory. Just re-assemble in reverse. Whole project takes maybe 45 minutes.

I followed common causes list for this problems from website. It is described that the coils are the most common reason then a list of other parts including High temperature fuse, thermostat, High limit temperature fuse, etc. Replace all these and problem remained unsolved. I search other website and found out that 9/10 times this problem is caused by a blown <<- IGNITER ->>. I inspected and indeed that was the problem. It is PITY that "Partselct" did not display this common cause just because they don't have this part available. I expended about $100 in unnecessary parts. Thank you very much !!!

Push new catch in the opening, close the door and VOILA! the door stays closed. Please note that the cost of this part is exorbitant- it's worth about 50 cents but with shipping it cost about $11.00. Check your local hardware store first.

After ordering the part, I read the information left by other users. I used a screw driver to pop out the piece, and then put the new latch in the opening. A gentle pop with the side of my hand, and the door latch went right into place. Who knew there was a second door latch on the other side that could've been used?

I replaced the two drum support rollers, the idler pulley wheel, and the belt. Replacing support rollers and pulley wheel requires snap ring pliers, to spread apart the tiny retainer ring that holds the wheels onto the shafts. Get a good quality one! The $23 pliers at Home Depot works great. The one I got for $3.99 online was garbage, and caused me to break one of the retainer rings. I'd recommend buying an extra retainer ring before beginning this repair, and practicing using the pliers with it. It's a very delicate operation and you have to have a steady hand. RE the Idler pulley wheel - this was the most likely cause of the squeaking noise. The old one had a deep groove worn into it by the belt, which may have caused it to spin off-balance on the shaft, resulting in the squeaking noise. RE replacing the belt: at first this task looks impossible, because you can't see exactly how the belt is threaded until you fully remove the drum, but you can't remove the drum until you've removed the belt! Put your hands behind and try to feel how it's threaded, before removing the belt. I drew a diagram to help me visualize how the belt is positioned: looking at the drum from the front, imagine the belt running clockwise around the drum, and after it goes across the top of the drum to the right, it threads UNDER the idler pulley wheel, then clockwise around and under the motor shaft, then back under the drum and around (I hope this helps, it's hard to describe in words). To replace the belt you need to first remove the two screws that secure the top panel of the dryer, and lift the top panel up (like the hood on a car). Then the sequence of steps to replace the belt is: 1) slide the belt off the drum, toward the back of the dryer. 2) remove the drum from the machine 3) if belt is still threaded, make a note of how it's positioned 4) Remove the belt completely 5) thread the new belt under the pulley wheel and around the motor shaft as described above, and 6) keeping the belt fairly taught, place the drum back in position and slide the new belt around the drum in the reverse direction, from back toward front. 7) test the belt by rotating the drum a little to ensure the belt and motor are rotating smoothly together. IMPORTANT: the ribbed-rubber inner side of the belt must be in contact with the drum and with the motor shaft. The belt may twist as you're putting it on, so feel it all the way around to make sure it's flat, and untwist it if necessary. Hope this helps -- it will make more sense when you're actually doing it. Though this may all seem complicated, it's actually a fairly simple machine with only a few moving parts, so it's not as hard as I am making it sound. Courage, and good luck!

Took apart front and top panels. Eight screws in total. Removed belt from pulley then drum. Removed both support rollers, idler pulley. Installed new items. Five wires that must be removed and reinstalled. I made diagram of wiring. Drum glides remove easy. Install new ones. It is best to install the belt on drum, then on the pulley. Install all panels.