ALG331RMW Amana Dryer - Instructions

First thing I had to do was get the dryer into the garage, I needed some room to work. Then I removed the top and let it rest on the side so I didn't have to disconnect any wiring. Then I removed the door switch. Then I removed the front of the dryer. The belt came off easily by just wiggling it towards the back of the drum, then the drum came right out, towards the front. I used the snap ring pliers to remove the drum rollers and installed the new ones. I used regular pliers to remove the tensioner spring and and wrench and socket ratchet to remove the tensioner. Getting the spring on the new tensioner was the hardest part. I replaced the drum with the belt already around it then laid down to route it around the tensioner. You can rotate the drum by hand to make sure any strange noises are gone. If so simply replace everything after a good lint cleaning session, lint can cause fire, and you're good to go. Really easy stuff.

removed old, installed new--easy

Un plug dryer . Take off dryer door . Remove front panel by pulling out. Remove 2 screws holding coil bracket . Remove electrical connectors ,remove 2 coils . Install 2 new coils same as old ones connect elect. Wires replace coil holding bkt. Unplug flame sensor . Remove 1 screw . Replace old flame sensor with new plugin elect. Connector replace in reverse wala ,,,alldone button up dryer plug in dryer . . Good to go.

Found the repair manual on the internet. Read the parts related to my problem and then proceeded. The job was actually easier than the directions outlined. The parts fit perfectly and at this very moment I can hardly hear the dryer running.

I consulted the instructional video before starting to take the dryer apart. My model is older than the one used in the video but it was still very helpful. Putting the belt on was fairly easy; however, I didn't know I also needed a rear drum wheel as well so while the belt is installed, the dryer still doesn't tumble when anything is in it. Off balance without 2nd rear drum wheel.

removed front panels, open the top of dryer. Removed the three screws holding blower panels and removed them. Then removed belt, drum and replaced the pulley. In reverse order reinstalled the parts. Done all is quit and no more squeak.

I opened the package that arrived and inserted the new lint filter into the place where the old one was. Then I threw the old lint filter away

The video on this site for replacing the drum support roller was quite good but for my particular model of dryer was not totally applicable. The video shows that by using a putty knife to disengage two spring clips in front, the top would open but my dryer had two screws in addition to the spring clips securing the top down. Those screws were accessed after taking off the front of the dryer first. That cost a little bit of time as it was an unexpected step and I did not want to damage my dryer. If your top cover is not popping off as easily as in the video, look for two screws on each corner holding it down. Other than that variation, the rest of the repair went as shown in the video. I did not isolate the cause of the squeaking to a drum support roller, the idler pulley wheel, or the belt but I decided to change out all of them since I would have the dryer apart and the parts are not expensive. I would recommend not buying the overpriced thrust washer and retaining ring as the old ones can be reused if you have removed the ring carefully with ring clip pliers. Notes about the repair: It is easy and I was able to do it without help with the drum. Take the time to do a good vacuum while you're in there. You can get an inexpensive set of ring clip pliers from Harbor Freight. They really helped and even a set of small needle nose pliers would not have been useful. Note about Parts Select: The prices for the parts was reasonable, with the exception of the thrust washer and retaining ring. Shipping was very fast and my order was fulfilled perfectly. I will return.

Repair was easy, remove bottom cover, remove screws that hold coil bracket, remove old coils & slip new ones on & button up. Dryer works fine now.Had the new parts within 3 days. Thanks PartSelect!

The part came in very quickly. If you know how to remove the front panel, it is very easy to repair. The hard part is to diagnose the problem. The first thing to check is the igniter. If it comes on then you look for faulty limit switches. If you have lots of training in electronics and appliance repair this is very easy, if you do not I would not try this. I have 40 years in the repair business, It still took me 1hr. to find the problem. the switch was intermitted, one time the dryer would work the next time it would not. Good luck and happy repairs.

Pushed in the Door Catch, and it was fixed.

Unplug. Remove door and front panel. Unplug two coils. Remove one screw and loosen other on bracket holding coils in place. Slide off coils and replace ( take note one has terminals up and one down). Reassemble.

Removed the front panel and found the glide were missing. Replace them dryer is know working fine.

First I stumbled around on my own trying to figure out the problem then I remembered PartSelect & the info I got to fix the dishwasher. The info given for the dryer pointed to 2 main problems for no heat, tested them with the Ohm meter & ordered the part. We have a dryer again !!

My father and I were deciding on weather or not to purchase a new stove. The stove had always worked well but one of the front burners would not work and the broiler element was cracked in half. I thought I could fix it and save alot of money and not have to purchase a new one. I entered the model # into the search engine from parts select, alot of discontinued parts came up that were unavailable. I then went to search by product and narrowed the selection to brand,size,metal,and category such as electrical. I was given like models that have these parts in common. I was surprised how many parts were available for my stove. I had originaly bought the unit through Montgomery Ward. Admiral, Maytag, and Whirlpool share many of the same parts. From the photos and descriptions I was able to find the correct parts. I purchased a new burner element and a broiler element. Unplug the stove first. The tools needed were a Phillips screwdriver and believe it or not that is it. Two screws held the top of the stove to the main cabinet. After removing these screws from the bottom of the stove top. Note all you have to do to find them is open the door and look under the stove top. The whole stove top swings up and back letting you access the burner elements. Three screws hold the element to the bottom of the stove top. Remove these and note the four electrical wires attached to the burner element. Make sure you mark or notate the location of each wire. Attach the new burner and hook up the wires to it. I put the stove top back down and plugged in the range. The new burner element worked but the switch didn't shut it off. I unplugged the stove and removed the the back plate at the top of the stove. The plate is held on by eight Phillips screws. You only need to take the top back plate off. Don't take the bottom one off. After removing the the plate I could access the switches for each heating element. The left front switch had scorch marks on it, so I knew that it was burned out. Another way is to test the switch with a continuity tester and see if there are any open contacts on the switch. I ordered the switch. It was delivered in two days. I removed the old switch by pulling the knob off the switch and removed one Phillips head screw holding the switch in place. I removed each wire and attached them just as they were attached to the old switch. I ratcheted the switch and plugged the stove in to the outlet and the new burner and switch worked great. I removed the old broiler by taking two Phillips screws out and carefully pulled the old broiler element out. I only pulled the broiler element about four inches from the back of the stove. There are two wires that slide off the broiler element. Remove them but don't let them get pushed back into the holes that they are located in or you will have to take the entire back of the stove off and push them back through there openings. I unfortunately did this and this added time to the repair job. There are two Phillips screws that hold the broiler element holding bar they are located inside the roof of the stove. Remove these screws and slide the old broiler element out. Slide this holder on the new broiler. The holder slides back and fourth on the broiler element so you can position it in the right spot. First attach the electrical connections by sliding on the two wires to the broiler. Push the broiler ends back into there holes and attach them with the two Phillips screws. Next slide the broiler holder on to the broiler element and then position the broiler on the roof of the oven. Attach with the Phillips screws. After doing this I plugged the stove in and turned on the broiler and it works great. There were alot of screws that held the back top plate to the stove and other screws that attached the switch, burner element and broiler element in place, so it would be a good idea to note were these screws are placed. Then there will not be a problem matching