ALG331RMC Amana Dryer - Instructions

Unplugged electrical cord to dryer. removed the front cover 2 screws on the bottom. Lifted front cover off. Unplugged the 2 wires going to the old flame sensor. Used nut driver to remove 1 screw holding the flame sensor in. Removed old sensor replaced with new one. Reattached the 2 wires back on to the new flame sensor. Tested. Flame stayed on longer! Dryer works great dryer is 20 years old and still running like new now. Part was the exact match I needed.

The first problem i had is that the idler pulley went out for the dryer drum. Part of the plastic pulley melted and the drive belt eventually broke. I got the parts to replace the idler pulley and belt from PartSelect. That was a pretty easy repair, but when i had it apart I noticed a small crack in the aluminum pulley on the motor drive shaft, I'm assuming because of the heat generated by the seized up idler pulley. I put it back together anyway. The dryer made it for 2 or 3 batches of clothes and the aluminum pulley on the motor shaft came apart. Turns out the only way to replace that pulley is to replace the motor. The cost for the new motor wasn't all that much and the dryer is in otherwise pretty good shape, so I ordered the new motor. The motor assembly was easy to replace and works great. Glad I was able to get it fixed without too much expense. I literally spent less that an hour altogether with both repairs. I was happy with the parts and service from partselect.com, they also have great how to videos.

Really easy popped the lid with a flat head screwdriver, then marked wires for door light and switch, took 2 5/16 bolts to remove front door, then 4 bolts also 5/16 to remove front panel but be care ful and remove drum belt then take panel and drum out. Then took a set of ring pliers to remove wheel slapped new one on.then reverse sreps to assemble.

For some time I have been using a lint filter that was bent and cracked. Recently it got much worse. I finally had had enough!. Went on line,found you, ordered what I needed, and TAA! DAA! In a few short days, hassle free clothes drying! Thank You!

im a car mecanic it was easy

I noticed my dryer wasnt turning so I decided to take it apart to see if I could fix it, I noticed my belt was almost to the breaking point and there was black dust everywhere. I looked at the idler pulley wheel and it didnt look right so i decided to replace that, the belt and noticed the felt pads were gone also and that can also effect the dryer turning so I replaced them also and put it all back together and it was working like it was brand new!

Removed lower panel. Disassembled air duct. Replaced part and reassembled. Unfortunately that didn't fix the problem. I did figure out that it is not temperature related like I originally thought. I jumped out the timer and the unit will run continuously, so no heat fault problem. I ordered the timer assembly today, I hope that does it, if not you probably won't hear from me because my wife is going to kill me! ha ha Take care, keep up the good work! Your place rules! Mike B Macedon, NY

Watched the on site repair video, which was very helpful. I placed the dryer on a tarp in the family room prior to dis-assembly. Using the putty knife to push in the spring latches holding down the top lid, and propping it up while removing the 2 screws, holding the front, disconnecting the wires to the light and door switches, noting the color coding of the wires. Removed the front drum support, drum to get access to the rear drum support rollers (2ea) and the idler pulley wheel. You will need snap ring pliers to remove the rollers. Also note the configuration to the drum belt. Placed a small amount of bearing grease on the rollers spindles and re-installed the rollers. Reinstalled the drum, belt, front drum support, hand spin the drum to check belt and drum. Reinstalled the front and wires, snap down the top lid and reconnected the dryer to laundry room utilities. Test run and Wa-La, a quiet dryer. I'm thinking the noise came from the idler pulley wheel, or one of the rear drum support rollers, but couldn't tell by looking at either of them. So it's a good idea to replace all three rollers.

Using a Nut driver, I removed the front bottom plate on the front (2 bolts), then the door assembly (2 more). I took pictures of the wires with my phone before I removed them so that I could ensure they went back on the correct posts. I removed the front exhaust assembly (4 bolts), then pivoted the top back to make room to remove the drum (2 more). I had to rotate the drum while removing forward it to walk the belt off of the drum. The snap ring pliers made short work of the snap rings, and the rollers were off. I blew out the insides (very dusty) and inspected for any other problems. I greased the roller studs with a small amount of axle grease and replaced the rollers, securing them with the washers and snap rings. I placed the belt on the drive roller and around the tension roller, and looped it over the back right corner of the dryer while i placed the drum back into position. I rotated the belt back on until it was in its proper place and the drum was sitting on the back rollers. I then replaced the front and referenced the pictures that I took to get the wires back on correctly. The drum was a little tricky getting the tabs on the bottom front flanges in the slot, the drum resting on the front sliders correctly, and the exhaust connected to the blower motor in all at the same time. It took me several tries to get it right. I pivoted the top back on and after securing that, re-installed the door assembly and the bottom front plate. Works Great!! And less than $30! I probably should have replaced the belt as well, but the belt was in pretty good shape.

No repair at all. Simply pulled out the old filter and slipped in the new one.

Took off front panels; disconnected the wiring; removed the drum and belt; replaced roller bracket & shaft assembly, drum support roller and retaining ring. Then re-assembled.

replaced idler puller and washers

Removed bottom panel, removed door, removed front, removed brace holding drum in place, removed cylinder belt, removed drum. Quickly able to remove both drum support rollers and idler Pulley wheel. I lightly greased the roller arms and installed the new rollers and idler pulley wheel that I purchased from PartSelect.com. I put it back together in reverse order (including new cylinder belt) and have a quiet dryer again. Cost around $40 for all the parts versus over $500 for a new dryer. If I can do it, anyone can.

I contacted PartSelect and received their wonderful, quick service. The part arrived soon and it was easy to install.

I would like to say first of all that I was amaized and pleased at how simple the ordering of this part was and while looking at the parts diagram on you website I noticed the door swing was optional and could be easily changed and the dryer came from the factory with a latch installed on both sides of the door. In our laundry room the dryer sits to the left of the washer and the door to the dryer opened to the right which has always been a slight inconvenience. . . So instead of changing out the broken part, I took the door and hinge off with my cordless screwdriver (6-8 screws) and turned it around and remounted it on the opposite side. . . Simple! I never took the new part out of the ups envelope. Now I have a spare so I taped the new part in the envelope to the back of the dryer in case I ever need it and now we have more convenience with the door swinging the correct way. Sweet deal! Took less than an hour. Thank you for making this task simple. Chuck g.