AGM699L2 (PAGM699L2) Amana Dryer - Instructions

All went very easily

unscrewed the 2 screws holding the coil's in place took wires off one coil at a time tested coils with ohm meter found the two wire coil was bad replaced and scered the bracket that holds the coils back in place.PartSelect gave me a list of what was causing the problem and what the % of what was the cause,this helped alot Thankyou PartSelect

Followed the instructions shown in the video. Very easy,

I'm a 65-year-old woman with no prior appliance repair experience. I learned on the web that 30% of the time, the failure-to-heat problem is caused by the valve coil, and 30% of the time, it's the cycling thermostat. So I ordered both parts. I watched installation videos on the web. The valve coil was accessable through a front port on the dryer so I started there. I had to go buy a stubby screwdriver because access to the screws was limited. From there, it was easy to take out the old valve coil and install the new one. Just 5 minutes. I plugged in the dryer again, turned it on, and it worked.

I first unplugged the dreyer from the wall, I then used the putty knife to push clips in on top of the dreyer and opened the top. I used a nut driver to remove the front panel and unplugged the light and door switch wires. I then reached under the drum and removed the belt, and then lifted the drum out of the cabinet. I used snap ring pliers to remove the rollers and replaced.them with the new ones. After installing the new rollers I placed the new belt around the the.drum and lifted the drum by the belt placing it back into the cabinet. With the drum back in place I reattached the front panel and turned the drum to make sure it was not hanging up on the felt rings. With the drum moving freely and the belt hanging down I layed back in front of the dreyer and put the belt on the motor and reached up to.the tension pulley and placed the belt under the pulley. Once the belt had tension on it I again manually rotated the drum to make sure it wasn't binding anywhere. All was good so I replugged the light and door wires, shut the lid and plugged the dreyer back into the wall socket, turned it on and it worked great. From start to finish it took about.40 minutes and half that time was spent cleaning out the cabinet which had quite a bit of lint. I have used the.dreyer several times since the repair, and this completely took care of the problem. I highly recommend ordering the rollers along with the belt as mine were well worn and it saved me from having to take it apart twice. All in all a very eazy do it yourself project.

Too simple to describe.

I would have been sick to have spent 100 bucks or more on a repair guy, or worse, several hundred on a new one. Six bucks and I'm back in action. I am only average handy, so anybody with a little talent can do this. I took the bottom front cover off first. Then opened the door and took the cover on the inside off. When you do this, you will have to disconnect wires from the door switch and inside light. Don't worry about it, they are pretty easy to remember what goes where, but if your scared, get little pieces of masking tape, write on it which connector it lands on, then tape it on the wire. The inside door cover will also take the vent and the connecting duct to the blower with it. You may have to wiggle the duct a little to get it off the blower. After that, I unfastened the top and lifted it back and out of the way. You should now be able to fully see the drum. No bolts, just slide it right out. If your belt is still around it, you may have to play with it a bit to get the tension off the belt. Once you got the drum out, you'll see the idler arm and pulley. I took the whole arm off (one nut and bolt) to make it easier to put the new pulley on. Once off, the hardest part of the job was to get the retaining ring off. If you got the right tool, it would be no sweat, but I didn't want to go to town, so I used two pairs of needle nose pliers to get it apart. New pulley slides right on, however, I would advise cleaning off any hardened grease on the idler arm connection and putting new grease on it. Put everything back together in reverse order. The belt can be a little tricky, but they have an awesome video on here, and once I watched it, had the belt on in 5 minutes. Buttoned everything back up just in time for kickoff. About an hour and a half work, less if I had the right tool to get the retaining ring off.

I replaced the Thermal Fuse and Cycling Thermostat first, since they were listed as fixing the problem 45% of the time and 19% of the time, but the dryer still didn't heat. I then ordered and replaced the gas valve solenoids, which solved the problem (but I ended up breaking the dryer belt while re-installing the drum, so that had to be replaced too.) In hindsight, I wish I would have ordered all four parts up front and saved a bit on shipping. Installation was easy, especially with the diagrams that showed where each part would be found.

First I opened the front of my dryer panel to see when the dryer was on if there was any gas flowing. I found that the ignitor was glowing , but no gas was releasing from the valve. So I figured that that is the root of the problem. I changed the old gas valves and replaced them with the new ones. It worked!! The whole process didn't take more than 30 minutes.

First I take off all front cover and then the dirt strainer next is the dryer drum holder next the top cover I lift up and so you room to set the dum belt

I popped the top open by depressing the spring clips with a putty knife. I then used a socket to remove the two bolts holding the front panel on either side near the top. Once the front panel was removed, I removed the frame that supports the front end of the tumbler drum. I then removed the belt tension by sliding it off the motor tensioner and removed the drum. Once the drum was out I had easy access to the high limit thermal fuse that I had to replace. After the fuse was replaced I put it back together the same way I took it apart.

Unplugged the dryer. Used the putty knife to release the spring clips. Opened the top and photographed then disconnected the wires at the top of the terminal block. Removed the old power cord and terminal block. Installed new terminal block. Reconnected wires according to pictures. Installed new power cord.

At first I thought the sensor in the drum part was bad. It had some residue from something on it and looked a bit beat up. Replaced it for 30$ and had the same problem. Note: I decided to take the console panel off because I though it was necessary to get to everywhere else and I found a folded up "repairman trouble shooting guide" in the console. Don't know if this is a common place to put it but it had all the wiring and problems detailed with this dryer. It had step-by-step assessment procedures for any problem. However, I punched the sequence for the "brains" to give me a problem code and it indicated that I needed a new "user interface," a 285$ part. I must have punched it wrong because I started to read other problem descriptions and I realized, based on others, that the most likely cause was the coils that regulate the gas/heat valve. I used the "problem guide" to measure the resistance of the coils (it gives you the proper range for each) and one was outside of what it should have been so I purchased a new set of coils for $20 plus shipping. It took me 2 tries at installing the coils because the cover plate that seats the coils in place was not aligned properly the first time. This cause them to vibrate and rattle when starting up. The coils were a little different in height so I readjusted the cover bracket and seated the coils properly. No rattle and the dryer worked perfectly.

Need a short handled phillips screwdriver. Unplug dryer from socket. Remove two screws near the bottom of the front panel. Swing the panel to one side so electrical wire doesn't need disconnection. Remove two screws holding bracket over the two coils. Unplug both coils. Plug in new coils. Replace bracket. Replace front panel. Plug machine back into electrical socket. Problem solved.

I was amazed just how easy it was. It would have been much quicker if I had a nut driver instead of a wrench. The video was great. Thank you!