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AGM699L2 Amana Dryer - Instructions

Installation Instructions for parts on models starting with AGM699L2

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

Models starting with AGM699L2

All Instructions for models starting with AGM699L2
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Drum not centered , clothes getting stuck in dryer

  • Customer: Chris from Hopedale MA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 465 of 464 people found this instruction helpful
The first thing I did was to unplug the dryer from the wall. Then I removed the bottom two screws and slid the bottom cover off so i could see all the way to the back, I tipped the dryer back against the wall and searched for the problem with a flashlight. I noticed that one of the guide wheels that held the drum in place was sheared off. I took the new drum support roller out and carefully slid it over the shaft, I had to jiggle it around for a bit, but then it finally was seated correctly. I replaced the washer and then the clip using a pair of needle nose pliers and a regular screw driver and then turned the dryer by hand to see if the wheel came off. After confirming that it worked, I put the cover back on, and plugged it in and tested it.

Squeeling and grinding noise

  • Customer: Steven from Holderness NH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 383 of 385 people found this instruction helpful
Wasn't the belt!! Changed it anyway. Should have come here earlier. That mistake added several days to the repair waiting for a second batch of the right parts. Became a pro at taking the dryer apart and reassembling, though! Easy job, just take your time and mark your wires, if you need to.
Followed other people's excellent instructions. Clean out all the dust bunnies. Schematics were a great resource. Those and the prices made me a repeat customer.
The shaft of the Idler Lever wheel was the cause, but decided, since I had it apart, to spend a little more money and replace both Drum Support Rollers and the Roller Bracket and Shaft Assembly. They showed some wear, and the parts were very inexpensive. Make sure you have snap ring pliers with prongs that are smaller than the standard 0.40 to save some aggravation with the Drum Rollers. $5 tool. Total parts were less than $60. Probably saved $150+ in labor. Quieter than ever now. Thanks!

Dryer ran but would not heat

  • Customer: Gary from Haverhill NH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 187 of 211 people found this instruction helpful
PartSelect showed seven different possibilities why the dryer wouldn't heat. I removed the two screws to remove the bottom panel and turned the dryer on and noticed that the heating element that ignites the gas was working fine. This meant that it was not getting gas so it could be the gas valve or one of the two gas valve coils which are located on top of the gas valve. I borrowed my neighbor"s ohm meter and touched the two probes on the coils terminals to check for continuity and found that one of the coils read zero. I then took both of the coils out by removing two screws and tested each coil again. One coil read 500-850 and the other read zero. This meant that it was no good so I called for the part and received it in three days. I reassembled the parts and turned the dryer on and it fired up after a few seconds. It works as good as new. The part plus shipping was less than $30. My repairman would have charged me $150-$200. While the dryer was apart I gave it a good cleaning with a vacuum and a toothbrush in delicate areas. I also removed and cleaned the lint trap housing by removing two nuts. I didn't know much about gas dryers, but thanks to PartSelect I easily fixed it myself.

Replace drive belt

  • Customer: Robert from Skokie IL
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 154 of 174 people found this instruction helpful
Remove front panel, lint basket, motor mounts,exhaust hood, front drum brackets. Then slip serpentine belt around drum, pressure w/ tension idler pulley and slip around drive motor spindle. Replace all parts in reverse order (a two person job).
Vacuumed inside of dryer (full of lint.)

Squeeling/Screeching

  • Customer: William from Round Mountain NV
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set
  • 168 of 242 people found this instruction helpful
First I read all of the other stories about this problem so I would have the correct parts. At $6 a roller, decided to get all 3 & a belt. Pulled the lower panel off (2 bolts), then the door (2 bolts). Marked the door switch wires. Took 2 bolts out of the top & tilted it back. I found this the easiest way to access the drum. Mark 2 wires before disconnecting them from the top. All bolts are 5/16". Removed the plastic piece that connects the lint trap to the blower (3 screws). Have to access these from inside the drum. Removed the belt, then the drum. The bad roller was the belt tension roller. Can't get to the snap ring from the front of the dryer for this roller. The 2 rollers in the back you can get to without removing the drum completely. Very easy to replace all rollers with the drum out. Also very easy to re-assemble. Buy or borrow a good set of snap ring pliers. Make sure you diagram the proper belt route if you don't have a picture. I printed a picture off this web site. Have someone hold the drum up so you can get the belt on, otherwise the entire repair is a 1 person job. Went back together in about 10 minutes. Total cost $40.00 parts & shipping.

Support Roller removal and Installation

  • Customer: Fred from Chicago IL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 135 of 198 people found this instruction helpful
First I turned off the gas supply line. Then unplug the dryer. Remove bottom front cover by removing the 2 screws (1 at each side) at the bottom. Next remove the 2 screws (1 at each side) located at bottom of front door panel. Pull front panel away from dryer and pull down slightly. This will disconnect the entire front panel(with door) from dryer. Carefull because there is a switch located at the top right corner of the panel on the inside. This will not allow you to remove the door yet. On some scratch paper, sketch the switch and correct color wire positions. Remove wires at connections. Pull the drum toward front dryer carefully. This dislodges it from the back of the dryer. No need to remove it from dryer. This way the belt still remains in place. From inside drum, use a pair of snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring from the support roller shaft located on left side of drum, below where the drum was sitting prior to pulling it forward to dislodge it from inside rear of dryer.
Remove old wheel , place some grease on inside of new support roller and some on the shaft. Install new roller and replace snap ring. Slide drum back in place inside the dryer at the rear. Hand rotate the drum to ensure it is properly installed. Reconnect the switch wires to the front panel. Slide panel up into place so that the clips (at top of panel) lock into place(square holes in top cover plate of dryer). Have the door open when doing this because you have to seat the front of the drum into the front cover. Reinstall the 2 screws. Test spin the drum again by hand. If it feels right, it's correctly seated.
Reinstall bottom front cover. While everything is apart, you may want to use a vacuum cleaner to clean the inside of your dryer. Perfect time to do this. Plug dryer back in and open gas supply line. Test the dryer. Should be nice and quiet again.
This fix is for the left side support roller only. There is a support roller on the right side also. In my case I only needed to fix the left side support roller. The inner diameter of the roller was badly worn and needed to be replaced. You may want to purchase the support roller shaft at the same time. I didn't and will need to do this repair again. I only purchased the support roller and when I removed it, I noticed the shaft is badly worn also. In my case, temporary fix until the shaft is ordered and then I'll do this again.

Loud banging sound. Worn out roller.

  • Customer: David from Underwood IA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 107 of 173 people found this instruction helpful
Pulled off the lower panel with 5/16 socket.Pulled off the door assembly by removing the two screws at the bottom of the door assembly. I pulled down a little and then out. be carefull of the wires. Other posts said to remove. The wires were long enough I did not have to remove them. I just leaned it against the wall. I then removed the 4 screws that hold the front piece in.pulled it off replaced brackets , installed self adhesive felt(stuck good) and then glides. Mine were thin but not the problem. I then reached under the drum and released the belt from the tensioner. I then pulled the whole drum out.This is the time to vacum out good. I could get to the rear rollers very easy. The left roller was shot and the shaft half wore into(the problem). I pulled off the two screws holding the roller support. Normally You have to remove the wheel with snap ring pliers first to remove the support. In this case snap ring long gone. Replaced support shaft, installed thrust washers and roller with grease for both sides. The right support shaft was still good. Removed tensioner pulley and inspected. It was just as good as the new one. Cleaned and greased and reinstalled. Put new belt on the tub and slid it back in. Be carefull to get the belt on the proper side of the tensioner. I then installed the front supprt in place to support the tub with the 4 screws. Spun the tub(felt good) then reached under and reinstalled belt to motor and tensioner. Spun again to check for belt alignment. (Check) Reinstalled door an lower panel. Test Quiet Sounds like new. Very easy! I hope this helps someone just as the other post has helped me. Blessings to all.

Timer wasn't working (New Timer)

  • Customer: Joaquin from Las Vegas NV
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 70 of 42 people found this instruction helpful
Timer wasn't working on the regular cycle so I replace it with a new one from partselect. It still wasn't working so I ordered and replace the cycling thermostat, the thermal fuse I also cleaned the vent and dryer it still didn't work so I read the diagram for the electrical and found that a coil for the gas valve is line with timer. I ordered the coils for the valves, replaced both valves and tested the dryer and it work just like when I first bought the appliance.

Dryer would only heat cycle once

  • Customer: Robert from Seattle WA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 56 of 62 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the two screws holding the front panel to expose the lower works and verified the heating cycle failure. After a check of the vent system, checking the sensors for continuity and coils for resistance, I retired to the 'net for support. Accepting the general consensus that the most frequent, common and likely failure to be the coils, I rechecked them with the meter and found the two pronged coil to have significantly more resistance than the three prong coil. That was enough evidence to point to the coils. While I waited for the part to arrive, I replace the vent ducting. When the parts arrived I removed the two Phillips screws holding the coils, removed the old ones, installed the new ones, replaced the bracket, put the front cover back on and in less then ten minutes clothes where drying.

Dryer would make hmming noise and motor was loud like there was some resistance. Dryer would overheat and shut down

  • Customer: Bryan from Everett WA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 84 of 149 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the covers, released the belt, pulled the drum, replaced rollers, glides, idler pulley and motor. The motor was the main issue but I replaced the rollers, idler and glides while I was in there. My biggest challenge was the clips that hold the motor in place. The hooked over a metal ear. I was able to use a big strait slot with downward pressure to release and reinstall.

The illustratations on the web site made ordering the correct part easy and the part fit perfectly so this repair job could have been accomplshed by anyone with very basic mechanical understanding.

Thank you

The dryer heated up for a few minutes and then cooled down.

  • Customer: James from Limington ME
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 45 of 49 people found this instruction helpful
1 Unplug power.
2. Remove the front of the unit by removing the two screws at the bottom of the front panel. Front dryer panel will swing out from the bottom and then the clips will release the top of the panel, careful not to disconnect the dryer door switch. ( can be unplugged to remove the front panel out of the way.)
3. Looking inside the unit on the right side you will see the gas value. On top of the gas unit you will see two small coils the coil closest to the burner has two leads on it. Remove the two screws to get to the coils, remove the medal plate, remove the connector then lift off the secondary coil. Replace and test. You can test unit with the front panel off. (be careful). If no heat, check that the Flat Style igniter is glowing. (ohm out both coils) before ordering parts. Intermittent heat problems. I replaced the secondary coil, it did ohm out o:k but it had swollen and was very tight on the shaft.

Dryer flame goes out after about 8-minutes from start and won’t work again until a 15-minute rest.

  • Customer: andy from Bethesda MD
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 42 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
There was no problem with lint build-up within the dryer & the exhaust vent. I removed the gas cycling thermostat & thermal fuse from system & dryer still was not operating correctly. The radiant sensor & hi-limit thermostat both seemed to be operating correctly. That left either of the two coils as the culprits. I replaced both coils & the problem was corrected.

Dryer would make humming noise and stop running as Motor would overheat.

  • Customer: Bryan from Everett WA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 43 of 52 people found this instruction helpful
This was much easier than I expected. I pulled the front covers, released the belt (just move tentioner pulley with fingers to release belt), removed the drum to access the motor. The motor was easy to remove. I loosened then nut in the fan assy using my channel locks (because I did not have a socket that big and then removed the wire harness clip to prepare the motor for removal. The two mounting clips were the tricky part as the fit over a metal ear on each side locked by the spring tension of the clips. It looks like a special tool my be available but I simply used my big straitslot and heavy downward pressure to remove and install. This repair can be completed by anyone with very basic mechanical skills and impress the spouse.

Extended drying time. Some but not enough heat. Burner would light for 15-18 seconds at first then shut off for 1-3 minutes then light for 3-6 seconds and repeat for the length of the cycle.

  • Customer: Matthew from Lake Worth FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 38 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
Determining the problem was the hardest part. With multiple parts (coils,thermostats...)possibly causing similar symptoms, I narrowed it down to the two coil valves.
Un plug the dryer. Remove two screws at the base of the front panel. Turn the front panel 180 degrees to avoid disconnecting the door switch. Gas valve with coils on top are on the right in front. Remove two screws in bracket holding coils, disconnect the wires, replace with new coils and reconnect wires. One coil has 2 terminals the other has 3 no chance of crossing the wires. I used an offset/right angle screw driver for one of the bracket screws due to close proximity to the drum. A stubby phillips head will work. You can check the burner operation with the front panel off as long as the door switch is still attached. Swing the front panel around and lift back into place securing with the two screws. Dryer works fine now.

catch mounted on door broke

  • Customer: Paul from Mt. Pleasant SC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 43 of 56 people found this instruction helpful
The door had always opened with the wrong swing and it wasn't til I needed to repair this that I noticed you could change the swing. I changed the swing of the door and then noticed that the clip was included on both sides so i did not need to repair the catch. I still have the part so when it breaks again, I can just pop it in.
All Instructions for models starting with AGM699L2
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