AGM409L2 (PAGM409L2) Amana Dryer - Instructions

The part came in very quickly. If you know how to remove the front panel, it is very easy to repair. The hard part is to diagnose the problem. The first thing to check is the igniter. If it comes on then you look for faulty limit switches. If you have lots of training in electronics and appliance repair this is very easy, if you do not I would not try this. I have 40 years in the repair business, It still took me 1hr. to find the problem. the switch was intermitted, one time the dryer would work the next time it would not. Good luck and happy repairs.

Pushed in the Door Catch, and it was fixed.

Unplug. Remove door and front panel. Unplug two coils. Remove one screw and loosen other on bracket holding coils in place. Slide off coils and replace ( take note one has terminals up and one down). Reassemble.

I followed the video on your web site, and it was a snap. The video had very good detail, and was easy to follow.

First I stumbled around on my own trying to figure out the problem then I remembered PartSelect & the info I got to fix the dishwasher. The info given for the dryer pointed to 2 main problems for no heat, tested them with the Ohm meter & ordered the part. We have a dryer again !!

Followed the video for the idler lever, replacing that was easy but replacing the motor assembly proved to be more difficult (there was no video). Re-installing the clips that hold the motor in place was a pain (special tool required?)but other than that, everything went together nicely. The how - to videos were very helpful. E

First read How to Repair and watched the videos. Followed their step by step explanations. Everything went accordingly. The offending part was the idler pulley. Parts fit like the originals. Dryer sounds almost like a new one. My wife took me to lunch. Life is good!

My father and I were deciding on weather or not to purchase a new stove. The stove had always worked well but one of the front burners would not work and the broiler element was cracked in half. I thought I could fix it and save alot of money and not have to purchase a new one. I entered the model # into the search engine from parts select, alot of discontinued parts came up that were unavailable. I then went to search by product and narrowed the selection to brand,size,metal,and category such as electrical. I was given like models that have these parts in common. I was surprised how many parts were available for my stove. I had originaly bought the unit through Montgomery Ward. Admiral, Maytag, and Whirlpool share many of the same parts. From the photos and descriptions I was able to find the correct parts. I purchased a new burner element and a broiler element. Unplug the stove first. The tools needed were a Phillips screwdriver and believe it or not that is it. Two screws held the top of the stove to the main cabinet. After removing these screws from the bottom of the stove top. Note all you have to do to find them is open the door and look under the stove top. The whole stove top swings up and back letting you access the burner elements. Three screws hold the element to the bottom of the stove top. Remove these and note the four electrical wires attached to the burner element. Make sure you mark or notate the location of each wire. Attach the new burner and hook up the wires to it. I put the stove top back down and plugged in the range. The new burner element worked but the switch didn't shut it off. I unplugged the stove and removed the the back plate at the top of the stove. The plate is held on by eight Phillips screws. You only need to take the top back plate off. Don't take the bottom one off. After removing the the plate I could access the switches for each heating element. The left front switch had scorch marks on it, so I knew that it was burned out. Another way is to test the switch with a continuity tester and see if there are any open contacts on the switch. I ordered the switch. It was delivered in two days. I removed the old switch by pulling the knob off the switch and removed one Phillips head screw holding the switch in place. I removed each wire and attached them just as they were attached to the old switch. I ratcheted the switch and plugged the stove in to the outlet and the new burner and switch worked great. I removed the old broiler by taking two Phillips screws out and carefully pulled the old broiler element out. I only pulled the broiler element about four inches from the back of the stove. There are two wires that slide off the broiler element. Remove them but don't let them get pushed back into the holes that they are located in or you will have to take the entire back of the stove off and push them back through there openings. I unfortunately did this and this added time to the repair job. There are two Phillips screws that hold the broiler element holding bar they are located inside the roof of the stove. Remove these screws and slide the old broiler element out. Slide this holder on the new broiler. The holder slides back and fourth on the broiler element so you can position it in the right spot. First attach the electrical connections by sliding on the two wires to the broiler. Push the broiler ends back into there holes and attach them with the two Phillips screws. Next slide the broiler holder on to the broiler element and then position the broiler on the roof of the oven. Attach with the Phillips screws. After doing this I plugged the stove in and turned on the broiler and it works great. There were alot of screws that held the back top plate to the stove and other screws that attached the switch, burner element and broiler element in place, so it would be a good idea to note were these screws are placed. Then there will not be a problem matching

Installing the new switch was a snap. With the dryer unplugged, open the top using a putty knife to release the 2 clips - one on each side. Lift the top and support it to stay open. Next, note the wire color and location for each of the 3 wires. Remove each wire from its prong on the bad switch by gripping the connector with pliers and pulling off. Next remove the bad switch by squeezing the tabs on the sides of the switch to release it. The switch removes to the front of the dryer. Install the new switch in the same method and reconnect the wires as before making sure the colors go back on the same prongs. I had to replace one of the connectors with a larger one (that came with the switch) since one of the prongs on the new switch was larger than the orginal (bad) switch. To do this, I cut the old connector off, stripped the end of the wire, and crimpted on the new connector. I had to be careful not to waste too much wire since there was very little slack to work with.

Removed the front lower panel & replaced the parts. Ordered the parts on Friday afternoon & received the new parts Saturaday afternoon. The next day.Dryer works great.

I unplugged the dryer, pushed the clips loose and tipped the lid up and tied it open to a cabinet above. Disconnected the electrical connections to the front panel and removed front panel. Then I disconnected the electrical connections to the drum support. Removed four sheet metal screws holding the support and lifted out the support. Removed the drum glides at the bottom, installed the new drum glides with felt pads. I replaced the drum rollers just so I didn't have to do it later. Put everything back in reverse order and running quiet! Well worth the $42.57 spent for parts and postage.

Besides successfully ordering the correct part I also noticed there were instructions on the website as to it's removal process. MOST helpful, I had not predicted the difficulty in doing it until I read the instructions. Very helpful.

Unplugged dryer from power source, used putty knife to release latches that hold top on, tilted the top out of the way, unplugged door lite, located the radiant switch, removed 1 screw,then undid 2 wires & lifted out switch. Reversed procedure plugged in dryer....wa la had dried a large load of clothes, took 1/3 the time to dry clothes at last. Thanks "PartSelect"

First, unplug power. The coils are easily accessible from the front of the dryer. Use a 5/16 nutdriver to remove two screws at the bottom of the bottom panel and lift the bottom edge of panel toward you. Pops right out. The assembly with the coils is on the front left. Use a small phillips to remove the coil-retaining bracket. Keep track of orientation of which coil goes where. Slide the suspect coil up off the column and slide the replacement in its place. Carefully slip off wire clips from old to new coil. Repeat for second coil. Reassemble and test.

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