AFI2538AEB Refrigerator - Instructions

Through out broken plastic, replace with new one
to be replaced in a few years.

I took out the ice collection box and auger to get access to the three screws holding the ice maker assembly against the left wall of the freezer. You can use a screwdriver or a nut driver. I then unpluged the assembly and wiggled it loose from the water fill tube. I assumed that unplugging the unit would disable the water valve but I put a plastic tub under the fill tube just in case. I studied the assembly on the kitchen table for a few minutes before I disasembled it. After removing a snapon plastick cover I removed three or four screws on the gearbox and was able to pull and wiggle the parts apart. The heater contacts have rubber O rings so you have to be firm pulling the mould out of and into the gearbox mount. Make sure it is fully seated. On reassembly note that the ice kicking arm is notched so it fits into the gearbox only one way and it helps to have it in position when you screw the gearbox back on. I also found the plastic ice guide that fits on top of the mold a little awkward in snaping back together. Make sure its fingers space evenly with the ice kicking arms.

I removed the ice maker assembly from the freezer compartment (four nuts/ nut driver) and unplugged the wire harness. I discovered the nature of the problem and I went on the Internet to look for replacement parts expecting I'd have to buy the entire ice maker. When I found PartSelect.com I looked through the pictures of the parts available for my ice maker. I found the correct part quickly and easily. And having an acurate photo on the site, I was able to match all the key features of the mold I had with the one on the screen. I ordered the part, and installed it the day it arrived with just a Phillips screwdriver and a nut driver. It functions perfectly.

Turned old one until it snapped out. Replaced it with a turn.

Remove the light cover. Use a flat head screw driver to push in the tabs on the back of the program mount and pull down to expose the computer board. The Thermistor is clipped on under the vent holes on the right side. Cut both wires to remove the old thermistor strip a 1/4 inch off the remaning wires and the new thermistor wires twist both ends together crimp on the wire caps snap in the new thermistor reinstall the program board until the retainer clips snap into place, slide the light cover back on.

Pushed the hinge pins aside and removed the old lid.. Reversed the process to install the new lid

The frig. no longer cool downed or operated at all as the electronic control panel was dead. Pulled old part off and put in new part, following instructions on You Tube. However, this part did not solve the issue. I had to call a repairman. The repairman said that another part was needed also, this part costs over $400.00 but, the part was no longer available. I had to purchase a new frig. and not a happy camper to have a 6 year old frig,that a part is no longer available.

Maytag Ice2-0 French Door refrigerator

Our refrigerator started slamming the icemaker door open and shut one evening. Investigation of the card behind the icemaker control panel (the LV control card) on the left-hand door revealed that the +12 volt supply that the card receives via J1 pin 3 was running at about 7 volts. As part of this investigation, I found that a wiring diagram for the fridge is in a sticky envelope behind the kickplate/grill at the bottom front of the 'fridge.

I was confused for a while because the +12 volt supply is floating, so measurements against the 'fridge frame gave very strange results. When I figured that one out, I got consistent results by measuring against J1 pin 1.

I disconnected J6 from the HV control card, located at the back of the 'fridge, and found that the +12 volt supply recovered to about 11.9 volts, so I suspected that the problem was that it was being loaded down by something. This supply gos to three places...the icemaker fan, the LV control card, and the evaporator fan (in some units)

I eventually found how to access the connector that feeds the icemaker, and disconnected it, in order to eliminate the ice fan from the supply. This made no difference, and the resistance across the supply was now 2800 ohms with J6 disconnected. I also noted that the two smoothing capacitors (C12 & C13) on the HV control card were getting hot...probably due to a high ripple current. As a load of 2800 represents a load current of only 4.3 mA, I concluded that the fault was on the HV card.

The +12 v supply is generated by an AC/DC rectifier directly off the 115 volt supply, giving a primary voltage of nearly 300 volts DC. This is chopped by a little horror of a device called a TOP247. It generates an AC waveform and drives a little transformer to generate +12 volts. This sort of circuit can be highly unstable, and it probably went into a high frequency mode, chopping at several megahertz.

Replacing the HV control card solved the problem. I have retained the card, and I intend to reverse engineer it's schematic, then try to repair it. The card cost about $150, but the actual defective component is unlikely to cost more than a few dollars, and I have a suspicion that the two electrolytic capacitors (C12 & C13) may be the cause.

First I removed the icemaker from the freezer by removing two horizontal screws holding it to the side wall, and one vertical screw holding the front to a bracket coming off the side wall. Then I used a flat screwdriver to unlock the electrical plug. (After doing this, I realized that this wasn't necessary at all, and this part could have been changed just as easily without removing the icemaker.) On the front, there is a white cover with Ice Maker Plus. Use a flat screwdriver to unlock the tangs and remove the cover. There are three screws in the corners that once removed, will allow the motor assy. to be gently pulled straight out. On the back of the part, you will see many gold lands that the timer touches. I don't think there was anything wrong with my motor. I had two spots where the gold plating was worn off, so I suspect it was not making contact, and the whole process would stop. Slide the new part in place making sure the teeth on the gears line up (not a big deal), and secure with the screws. Install cover and you're done. Mine has been making ice like it was brand new.

I was about to waste $1000 on buying a Refrigerator. Took 1 mins to search on google "Refrigerator doesn't work". Found a video on youtube, showed a step and step video to solve my problem. Order the part $50 and it took me less then 5 mins to install it. =)

Took two times getting the correct part, however after getting the correct part it took about 10-minutes to replace. Had to take the fan out. When you put the new drip pan in make sure it is positioned so that the guides on the pan aligns with slots in the bottom refrig brace, otherwise back pannel will not align correctly. The fan is very easy getting aligned in the new tray. May take a little effort. I do not know why the pan on a refrighterator that is less than 5-years old could start breaking into many pieces.

This is the 2nd time I had have had to replace the center rail in 2 years....

Removed all of the bottom drawers and shelvs, then removed the end panel that contained the broken Deli cover hinge pin. Replaced with new panel, cleaned all of the existing parts and ten re-assembled.

I used board levers to do one side at a time.Kinda tricky, but you can hoist up fridge high enough to replace wheels. take your time think it out and be safe . Make sure you use saftey boards to support load to protect yourself==good luck A small mirror may help to see how the rollers alien in the supports.

After the repairman came and was going to charge me 500.00 to fix, I got on the net and found this site. Located the issue, part, and ordered it. The only trouble I had was locating the board in the fridge? It's right in the back behind the metal door, duh. Unplug each wire harness, pull board out and replace the board and plug harnesses back in. Took under 5 minutes from start to finish. It took longer to program it, after two tries I re-read the program instructions sent with the board and presto it works perfectly!!! A Big thanks to part select.com. ps if the fridge is cooling correctly you can take the top left cover off unplug the harness there and get a few days worth of cool out of it before it goes out completely but I would suggest the overnight ship if you are already dead, 24 bucks is a small price to pay to be up and running within 24 hours.