Models > AER5715QAW > Instructions

AER5715QAW Amana Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for AER5715QAW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the AER5715QAW
1-15 of 210
Search Instructions
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump". Need help?

Oven not holding 350 F, when cooling the coils did not reheat

  • Customer: David from Westford MA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 65 of 70 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the oven door by opening slightly, then pic door up to remove. Remove 2 screws holding oven sensor in place, gently pull on sensor to remove, had to remove about 8 inches to get at plastic connector. Unplug connector, had to use an adapter cable supplied with the PartSelect kit to install new sensor, push cable back into opening, reinstall 2 screws. The oven works fine! Note that due to thermal lag the temperature overshoots to 370 degrees and undershoots to 340 degrees, this appears to be normal oven operation. Putting door back in place was easy.

Right rear burner went bad

  • Customer: Mark from Loxahatchee FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 60 of 65 people found this instruction helpful
Turned the breaker off, I removed 2 screws securing the range top to the range, opened the top and secured it in the up position, Removed the 2 screws securing the element ,one at a time I swapped the quick connectors from the old element to the new and repeated the process in reverse. I save over $100.00 in labor, plus most companies get you for a trip charge. It was easy!!

Oven wouldn't get hot enough

  • Customer: Shawn from Atlantic Highlands NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 56 of 62 people found this instruction helpful
First and MOST IMPORTANTLY, I located the breaker switch for my oven and turned it off. I verified this by noticing that the electric clock on the oven display was no longer powered.

After removing all the oven racks, I removed the two screws at the bottom of the back end of the oven holding the metal "floor" in place.

Removing the "floor" cover exposed the old heating element and I was able to quickly identify the corrosion of the old heating element which caused it break.

I unscrewed the two screws attaching the heating element to the bottom of the oven, then there was another screw attaching the back of the heating element to the back wall of the oven.

I had to pull the element towards me with a decent amount of force. This is the "quick and dirty" way of getting the job done, because I didn't want to have to find a way to pull my entire oven out from the wall of my kitchen in order to gain access to the back panel. Eventually with enough pulling, the two wires came through the holes with the gator clips still attached to the element (good! it would not have been fun if one of those came off too soon). Incidentally, a bit of fiberglass insulation also came through the holes. It didn't seem to be a big deal, I just discarded the fluff.

I detached the gator clips from the old heating element and removed it. It had a fair amount of black carbon residue (I assume) so you might want to wear gloves for this part or at least have a paper towel handy to clean your hands up.

Just follow the same directions in reverse the get the new element in. Hook up the gator clips, shove them through the two holes in the back of the oven, remount all the screws, remount the oven "flooring" and screw it back in. Before replacing the flooring, you may want to try turning on your oven to ensure it gives a nice pretty orange glow. Of course don't forget to let it cool down before proceeding, if you do that!

Don't think you have to be an expert to do this one. I was able to diagnose and fix this problem without any prior oven repair situations under my belt.

Right Front Surface Element would not heat

  • Customer: Robert from Blackwood NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 45 of 51 people found this instruction helpful
Turn off the power to the Electric Oven.
Remove the 2 screws to the oven top at the front of the stove. Lift the oven top up. Have someone hold it for you. Label the wires that go to the element you are going to replace. Disconnect the wires from the Element. Remove the screw from the bracket that holds the front and rear element in place. It is located at the back of the bracket behind the rear element and you will need small phillips head screw driver. Remove the bad element.. Unscrew the two pointed bracket holder pieces from the old element and screw them into the new element in the same location as the old. Put the new element back into the bracket and put the bracket mount screw back in. Attach the wires back to the new element. Close the oven top. Install the oven top screws at the front of the stove. Turn the power back on and test the element.

The Burner was getting too hot and you could not regular the tempature

  • Customer: Dennis from Hagerstown MD
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 27 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
Moved the Appliance out unplugged it and removed the backing plate then Remove the Knob and unscrew the infinite switch then marking the 5 wires to know where the go on the new switch, removing and replaced it with the new one

F1-1 code

  • Customer: charles from marstons mills MA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 23 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the sensor out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Next, I connected new sensor and screwed the new sensor back in place. One area for caution. Make sure that the electrical connection is pushed in past the insulation on the back side of the oven. Failure to do so will cause the plastic plug connector to melt from oven heat.

Oven Door Inner Glass Broken

  • Customer: Shariq from West Conshohocken PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 21 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
This is fairly easy for anyone to do. First I opened up the front (silver part) of the oven door by removing the screws at the top and the bottom. Then I kept on removing the various layers of glass... the 2 outside ones are removed by removing their respective screws and then you get to the inner-most. These 2 inner ones are in a frame that holds them together. I removed the large silver frame that holds the insulation and the 2-glass-frame in it. Just remove the screws and then tilt the insulation frame out a bit to remove the glass frame. You can tilt the entire insulation holder out but the insulation is soft and it starts to fall off. Just tilting it enough worked for me. Then I opened up the glass frame from one end, removed the left-over broken piece of the old glass pane and installed the new one in. Then reassemble. The entire process is very easy - but you will need another person for a few minutes when you remove /reinstall the glass frame inside the insulation holder. You would just need a little help holding everything... nothing technical. I would rate the repair technicality at 4 or 5/10. It could even be a 3 if there were less steps involved. Good luck! By the way, Amana/Maytag wanted $70 or so for the glass and then the repair fee. I got the part here for about $50.

glass cooktop element stopped working

  • Customer: Mark from mckinney TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 18 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
3 months after my 5 year warranty ran out, one of the elements on my wife's maytag cooktop "popped". I was curious to see if I could fix it myself and ran across partselect.com via google. Their step by step instructions for determining the source of the problem (i.e. either the element or the control was bad) led me to realize that the element was bad. I ordered a new one -- which arrived in 3 days! It was very easy to replace the element, since I had already taken the glass cooktop off of the range during the testing phase. Thanks partselect.com!

Oven would not heat up past 225 degrees

  • Customer: Steve from Merrimack NH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
Unplug the oven.

While you are back there, open the small access panel in the back, bottom center, by remoing one phillips head screw.

You'll see where the power cord is tied into the appliance, and above that there are two connectors attached to the two contacts on the element. These slide off. (Make sure the oven is unplugged or you'll electrocute yourself at which point fixing the oven is proably not a priority.)

Open the oven door and remove the oven racks.

There are two Pan-head Phillips screws securing the the base cover in the bottom of the oven cabinet. (Near the rear of the cabinet) There is a lip at the front edge, so after removing these screws you need to lift the panel up from the back , then turn the panel slightly (at an angle) to remove it; this exposes the element in the base of the cabinet.

There are two or three phillips screws holding the element into the base of the cabinet nearer the oven door--they drive through a small steel bracket attached to the element, and are difficult to miss.

There is one more screw on the back wall of the cabinet were the element exits out to the contacts you disconnected while not electrocuting yourself. Once you remove this screw the element slides right out.

Reverse the process to install the new one.

Final note: The bad element was eating itself; this occurs--apparently--when the oven is on and someone leaves the door open for an extended period of time. My suggestion, with Maytag's at least, is to make sure your furnace does not breakdown late on a sunday when it is extremely cold. If you need to heat the house with your oven--which I am not recommending--order a replacement element from Part Select that day, as you will need to replace it if you don't want your wife to have to cook thanksgiving dinner in the neighbors kitchen.

It took me less time to fix, that to explain how I did it.

the 2500 watts element-surf was opened (wasn't heating)

  • Customer: luis from Lincoln NE
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
1 Turn the circuit breaker that feds power to the range/stove off
2 Opened the oven door and found two screws that hold the top part of the range. I removed the screws and disconnected the green cable (ground) so I could have access to the Element-surt
3 Disconnected the four wires that connects the Element and removed the braket that holds it.
4 Replaced the new element, connected the wires and attached the braket.
5 Connected the ground (green cable) and place the top back on place (screwed the top from inside the oven).
6 turned the power on

Repeated oven temperature sensor fault codes.

  • Customer: David from Arlington VA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 16 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the two philips screws inside the oven that hold the element in place. Then I pulled the sensor out and the two insulated wires through the hole to reveal the plastic connector. I unsnapped it from the connector and replaced it with the new element. Then, behind the oven, I removed five or six philips screws on the right side of the large panel so I could pull the wires back through the layer of fiberglass insulation to make sure only the sensor itself would be exposed to the oven's heat. I then secured the back panel again and replaced the two philips screws holding the sensor in place.

could not control burner temp.

  • Customer: James from Chesapeake VA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 13 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
removed back cover
removed wires
removed two screws and removed switch
replaced switch and two screws
replaced wires and back cover

Burned terminal block and filter board

  • Customer: Joseph from Decatur GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 27 of 57 people found this instruction helpful
Removed and replaced above named parts, rewired.Be sure to tighten all nuts that secure wires. I believe this is what caused the problem.

right rear burner was inop for last 4 years

  • Customer: Thomas from Steinhatchee FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
1. tripped circuit breaker for stovetop
2. pulled the stove top out of its cabinet.
3. turned in over carefully due to the glass cooking surface.
4. used 1/4 inch nutdriver on cordless drill to remove all the screws holding the lower cover in place. lifted cover off without removing completely as power wires still attached.
5. did continuity test on burner and found it open circuit while all the other 3 burners had continuity.
6. removed defective burner by removing two more screws and saw element was fried on the cooking side.
7. wrote down all part numbers and put it all back together.
8. changed the burner out when new one arrived by repeating steps 1 thru 6. Pay attention to the correct wiring setup. Do one wire at a time to make sure you don't mess up. MAKE SURE THE CIRCUIT BREAKER IS TRIPPED BEFORE YOU KILL YOUR SELF.

Have a tall one to celebrate the savings of two repair man call out fee's of minimum $60 each time and paying list price for the element. You probably just saved yourself $150.
Tom in Steinhatchee

Original element coil burned out

  • Customer: Mark from Americus GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
I looked how it came out pretty easy, check how your connections are on the unitase you unplug them. Ordered new part from patrs select. the new came in. Make sure you look at the location on the problem part of the tabs on back because it is important on the reinstall of the element ( it is easy it is numbered like a clock) plug in the wires and your ready to go.
All Instructions for the AER5715QAW
1-15 of 210