Quick Question!

Have you ever purchased from PartSelect.com before?

Models > AED4475TQ0 > Instructions

AED4475TQ0 Admiral Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for AED4475TQ0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the AED4475TQ0
16-30 of 809
Search Instructions
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump". Need help?

Broken Switch Assembly

  • Customer: Michael from Dearborn, MI
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 79 of 141 people found this instruction helpful
This was my first dryer repair, and it was so easy. Simply pull out the lint trap and unscrew the two screws that are exposed. They attach the top deck of the dryer to the drum.

Once it's unscrewed, pull forward while lifting the top of the dryer. The top is attached to the control assembly. They should both lift up, but you'll need something to prop it up like you would the hood of your car.

Next, use the pliers to pinch the connector so that you can separate the two parts of the connector.

Open the dryer door to gain access to the screws that hold the switch in place. Use your screwdriver to unscrew the switch.

Plug the new switch connector in, and close up the dryer.

Word of caution; there are sharp edges inside the dryer so be careful.

Broken belt - drum would not turn

  • Customer: Gary from Oakland, MD
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 48 of 53 people found this instruction helpful
Started out taking the back off, then found online that access is from the front and much easier to get to. Simply pop the hinges in the back of the top panel and then the front of the top is popped off. From there, it is easy to remove the old belt, clean the innards (found 31 cents) and replace the new belt. It was a little disconcerting to see the idler pulley laying loose inside, but the diagram showed exactly how to put it back in place, with the new belt keeping it in place.

Rear Dryer Seal was old and staining clothing

  • Customer: Grace from Phoenix, AZ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 36 of 39 people found this instruction helpful
After unplugging the dryer,I removed 2 bolts on the back top of the dryer, then removed the two screws in the lint box area. I used a screw driver to help force the top panel of the dryer up. When open, I removed the top screws that held the front and side panels together. I then lifted the front panel up and away from the dryer, so there would be room to take the drum out. I removed the belt from the pulley (located under the drum) and slid the drum out. I removed the old seal, cleaned up the drum and the inside of the dryer, then glued the new seal on. After the glue was dry, I put the drum back in (with the belt on the drum), put the belt back on the pulley and proceeded to put the dryer front back on. Once the front was on, I put the top back on and replaced the bolts on the back of the dryer. I plugged it in and it is working great! By the way, before this, I had NEVER attempted to repair a dryer before and I am female. If I could do it, so can anyone else willing to try :)

The dryer would run i.e. the drum would turn, but there was no heat so the clothes didn’t dry.

  • Customer: David from Joppa, MD
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 31 of 35 people found this instruction helpful
I took a ¼ inch nut driver and removed the rear cover from the unit, and then used a continuity tester to determine which safety device was open. According to the schematic there was one non-resettable safety device in the heating circuit, and that was open. The kit that I ordered came with thermal cutoff and a thermostat. I replaced both parts and the unit now operates normally. While I had the dryer open I thoroughly cleaned the dust and lint from the unit and also the 4 inch vent pipe. I ordered this part on Friday morning and received it early Saturday afternoon.

Dryer making loud squealing noise when running

  • Customer: Stephen from Springfield, MA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 29 of 30 people found this instruction helpful
The (front) bearing and seal are not metal parts but a fabric and and mesh like material. It is somewhat like a fabric belt made to hold up a pair of trousers. The belt sits in a channel that goes around the door on the inside of the front panel. To get to the combination bearing/seal you remove two screws that are located under the cover of the lint trap. These have to be removed to lift the top. Then using a putty knife or screw driver you must pop the top (which snaps down on plastic clips) at the front corners. The top lifts up and folds back on hinges. The front is attached to the sides by one screw on each side near the top. A nut driver will remove then easily. Once the 2 screws are removed lift the front panel about 2 inches to disengage the front panel from the clips that hold the front attached to the sides near the bottom. When you remove the front panel the dryer drum will literally fall out so you want to get hold of it before pulling the front panel away so it isn't damaged and and doesn't damage the gas burner assembly which is under the drum to the left side. The drum is very light. I supported it with an empty shoe box while the front was off.
Once the front is off you'll see the bearing/seal on the inside of the front panel and it will be obvious how to remove the old one and place the new one. There are three pegs on the front panel that receive the three holes in the fabric bearing/seal. The seal will stay in place while you remove the shoe box and put the front cover back on. The drum fits over the seal like a lid on a jar and just slides on the fabric when the drum rotates. Low tech but the drums slides easily on the bearing material and seems to last a long time.

I also did the rear dryer seal. This is similar to the front. To do this you follow the procedure above but to get to the real seal you will have to remove the drum. It will fall out on its own if the front panel is removed. The drive belt goes around the drum. It is about 3/8th of and wide and just wraps around the drum without any teeth or channels or anything. Let the belt fall to the bottom as you lift the drum forward and out of the cabinet. The drum is light. Just put it on the floor and strip off the old rear seal which is glued on. It too is fabric. Clean up the drum a little and fit the new seal on the drum. Once the seal is on the drum you can lift the edge of the fabric seal and glue the fabric flange to the drum. This becomes pretty obvious once you have the seal on the drum. If you put the glue on the drum first you will make a mess. Put the seal on properly and the lift the edge to apply the adhesive all the way around. The adhesive sets enough in a hour or so. Put the drum back in and replace the front panel. Don't forget the drive belt. It goes around the drive motor that is located on the bottom of the dryer on the right, around or over an idler pulley (my older model does not have a idler wheel but rather a bracket with a "slide" that the belt runs over that keeps sufficient tension on the belt to drive the drum. If your belt falls off the motor and the idler pulley falls out it may be confusing how the belt goes in. My idler bracket is held in slots on the bottom of the cabinet merely by the tension of the belt - no screws or anything. I suggest that you put the belt around the drum first, then the drive motor. You will have slack in the belt and it becomes a little more obvious how the idler pulley (which is mounted on spring steel) goes in and takes up that slack and keeps modest tension on the belt. The rubber side of the belt goes against the drum, the leathery side is the outside.

Needed lint filter for my old Kenmore dryer that was no longer manufactured by Sears.

  • Customer: Richard from Fairfax, VA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 27 of 28 people found this instruction helpful
Lint filter supplied by Parts Select was an exact replacement by an aftermarket manufacturer. I put the old one and the new one side by side and they were identical (of course, the handle wasn't broken off on the new one!). I coulnd't be happier. It arrived at my house 2 days after I ordered it. I highly recommend Parts Select.

Dryer had heat intermittently and would take 3 cycles to dry a load of clothes

  • Customer: ANTHONY from MONROE, NC
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 31 of 41 people found this instruction helpful
First, remove the back panel of dryer which is about 10 screws. Then remove the 2 thermal switches, one is above the heating element and the other is where the hot air comes out. They are both really easy to get to and the pictures on Part Select.com are identical, so you can order the part first and then just "match them up" if you are not sure what to replace. Oops, the first step is to unplug the dryer.

Dryer belt snapped

  • Customer: J. from Oakdale, NY
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 28 of 33 people found this instruction helpful
There are a total of six screws that have to be removed to do this job.
Take the lint tray out and remove the first two screws.
Secondly, remove the lower panel in the front of the dryer. You do this by inserting a screwdriver at the top portion and pry it off. Next, loosen the two screws under the top panel in the front of the dryer.
Now take your screwdriver and pry up the top lid of the dryer. The last two screws are in the inside of the front panel. They hold together the front and side panels. Remove them and be sure you have a support for under the dryer drum. (once you remove the front panel, the drum no longer has a way to stay suspended)
(Make sure you disconnect the wires attached to the front door, making note of which wire goes where.)
At this point, You can follow the easy instructions that come with your new belt.
If you have a little mechanical aptitude, this is a very easy project.

Drum stopped turning, fan continued to blow

  • Customer: Richard from Davie, FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 26 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
Disconnected supply. Lifted top (hinges on rear). removed two 1/4 hex head screws retaining front panel. Disconnected door switch wires. Removed front panel, lifting off from bottom tabs. Lifted out drum and discarded broken belt. Spent 30 minutes+ cleaning interior, drum skid area, dryer exit tube, motor pulley, belt tensioner, etc, etc. Checked wiring harness for possible damage (no damage found). Repositioned drum skid pads, which had become dislodged from their intended position. Reinstalled the drum with new belt, ensuring both belt & tensioner were correctly positioned, and drum rollers and felt seals were also correctly positioned. Reinstalled front panel, tightening the two 1/4 hex head retaining screws. Reconnected power. Checked functionality. Closed top cover.

Dryer would not shut off on auto dry settings

  • Customer: Wiliam from Belleville, MI
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 27 of 32 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the discharge duct from the back of the dryer. Then, I removed the screws on the back of the dryer and the back itself. This exposed the cycling thermostat. I removed the screw holding the thermostat. I took the wires off the defective thermostat and reinstalled them on the new thermostat. Then, I reassembled in reverse order.

Drier would not heat

  • Customer: Jason from Birmingham, AL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 23 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
Wife said the drier was not heating. I looked on the internet and found Parts Select. Followed the instructions to test the heating element, thermal cut-offs, and thermostat. This is really easy, you just touch the terminals with the voltage meter to see which ones are not transmitting current (with the drier unplugged). One of the thermal cut-offs was not transmitting current so I ordered the part Sunday night and had it by Wednesday morning and put it on it about five minutes. Steps:

1. Unplug drier
2. Unscrew back of drier
3. Unplug wires from terminals of the parts shown in Parts Select instructions (one at a time)
4. Get a basic voltage meter (I bought a cheap one at the big box store)
5. Test terminals (touch the red terminal on the voltage meter to one side, black to the other)
6. If the needle moves to the other side, the part is OK, if not order the part and replace.

dryer drum wouldn't turn

  • Customer: Steve from Peachtree City, GA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 20 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
First of all, you go in from the front. There a clip on each side that I just pried up to pop the front of the dryer up. A screw also needs to be removed in the lint catcher area. Also, two screws holding the door open switch must be removed as I never could get the electrical connectors to disconnect. No big deal. I had to figure out you must lift the front of the dryer up as the last two things holding it in are a prong on each side. Lift the front up and off and set it aside. As you do this the drum will either fall on your feet or you'll have it supported be another person or with something else. I used bungee cords and kept it in the laundry room. Cleaned out all the old lint, collected a few bucks in change. It took me awhile to figure out how the new belt routed through the removable pulley guide thing and around the wheel pulley. I don't remember right now as I'm not looking at it but remember pinching the belt and feeding it through the guide and around the wheel pulley which has a little slot and grooves matching the belt. Besides scrapping my wife's hand while she was helping me get the front of the dryer back on there were no casualties or further complications. Good luck!

dryer did not heat anymore

  • Customer: Derwin from Waleska, AL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 23 of 31 people found this instruction helpful
My husband removed the old (2) thermostats..then installed the new ones...he said the only thing he needed was his battery run screwdriver, and it was really needed!
we are happy with the ordering, delivery, and the ease of replacement of our new parts. Thanks.

Drum would turn but not heat.

  • Customer: james from corpus christi, TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 19 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
After tearing the back off by removing the numerous 1/4 inch hex screws, and locating the schematic in the compartment behind the dryer controls, I took a multimeter on the resistance setting and tested all the components I deduced were part of the heating circuit until i found the upper limit temp fuse of was open (i.e infinite , OL, how ever your meter will display this). I ordered the kit from here and upon installation found I had a different type of Thermistat assembly then the kit came with, however, the kit did anticipate this might happen and had "some" instruction on modifying the wire harness to accommodate the part. Essentially if you have this older style you will need to do some basic wire stripping and crimping to make it all work. While I am an electrical technician on aircraft, anyone should be able to follow the how-to video on this page(which deals exactly with what I had) and with the proper tools install this part.
I also cleaned out and inspected the rest of the dryer since I had it all open, including looking for burning on the heating element and inspection of the rest of the wiring harness. Finally removed the lint chute by removing the two screws located under the lint basket door, and the nuts holding it to the dryer frame and did a work over on it, finding a lot of compacted lint and debris inside. A can of compressed air helped a lot for this.

One of the power cord connections on the terminal block was loose. Screw on terminal block was cross threaded when installed. Took six years to smoke the wire.

  • Customer: DAVID from LEESBURG, FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 26 of 42 people found this instruction helpful
Removed and replaced terminal block, power cord and black wire to timer.
All Instructions for the AED4475TQ0
16-30 of 809