Models > AED4370TQ0 Maytag > Instructions

AED4370TQ0 Admiral Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for AED4370TQ0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the AED4370TQ0
76-90 of 660
Search Instructions
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump". Need help?

dryer would work, didn't have any heat.

  • Customer: linda from buckeye AZ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
unpluged the dryer, took off the back, followed instructions and was able to take of the problem on my own.

Timer stopped working

  • Customer: Vinay from Germantown MD
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Removed 8 nuts (had to use an extension to get to 3of them). Unplugged the 'bad' timer and plugged the new one in. Re-bolted and thats it.

Note: Removing the plugs from the timer was a little tricky.

The dryer door latch was broken.

  • Customer: Jack from Memphis TN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
The replacement part just snapped into place. (The old part had fallen out) It took less than 30 seconds to do the repair.

Lens melted because paper got behind the lens and was heated by the lamp.

  • Customer: Chris from Valley Stream NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
1 screw to replace.

Dryer would spin but no heat

  • Customer: Timothy from Anderson IN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
First I unplugged the dryer from 240V and removed the back cover upper (behind the switch) and lower (exposing the remainder of the parts)

Inside the upper section was a folded wiring diagram of the dryer (don't know if this was courtesy of Whirlpool or another individual, but it was a very nice touch.)

I did a resistance measurement across the heating coil and found out it was fine. I then plugged the dryer back in and carefully took voltage measurements from one phase of power (this was easily accessed where the power comes in to the dryer, just be careful not to touch or short the wires)

I had an assistant turn on the dryer (this makes things go a little faster, as you are behind the dryer otherwise) and checked for 240V across the heater coil.

Once I did not have this, I kept one lead on the left side wire (one of the power phases coming into the dryer) and moved the other lead to the left (as viewed on the wiring diagram) until I no longer had 240V. This identified the faulty component as the Thermostat High-Limit, non resetable.

I ordered the kit with the High Limit NR and High limit Thermostat (as both had to be bad). I also ordered the 150 degree cycling thermostat (although this was not necessary - for <$20 I opted to replace it as well)

Removing wires one at a time, each component is fairly easy to replace.

My only complaint is that with the combo kit, the wire attachment is a little different that the original component and requires you to cut an existing wire and crimp a different terminal to allow all three wires on the High Limit thermostat (250 degrees) to be attached. There is little to show you how exactly the crimp is to be connected (it goes on the smaller of the three wires - DO NOT CUT the jumper provided and USE A GOOD CRIMPER - not the $2 variety, or you'll be getting a new connector!!) The connector provided is designed for some strain relief from one connector to the other, however) An additional jumper with the appropriate connectors already attached would be a nicer design.

Also, make sure you do NOT screw in the smaller cover that covers the power in until you place the entire lower half cover back on the dryer (unless you want to take it off a second time, as I did...) as it uses a common screw to hold both in place.

Overall, fairly easy to do with a minimum of tools, straight blade screwdriver to remove stubborn wire connectors (esp. for HT thermostat 250), ratchet and socket for quick removal and replacement of covers, and a good T&B style crimper ($10-$20 at your local hardware and well worth it even if you only use it a couple of times)

30 minutes and done - the dryer now cranks out the heat and the advanced settings (Auto dry) work great - no more 2-3 times throug to get things dry.

If you have a minimum of mechanical ability and a little bit of electronic troubleshooting skill, you can check and repair this youself and save about an $80-$100 service call.

Thanks to Part Select for the diagram of the dryer layout as well!! (Schematic would be nice if available online, though!)

Shipped the part in about 2 days from order time, as well. Will be back (hopefully not soon, though, as something has to break first!!!)

Be safe and good luck!

(One last note: Make sure your lint trap is clear including the hose - either due to build up or a lazy kid...as this probably caused the failure as heat could not escape...)

Dryer would leave clothes damp

  • Customer: Luke from Elmira NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
First, I unplugged the dyer and then I removed all of the screws for the panel that covers the rear of the dryer. This exposed the cycling thermostat's location. I then removed the wires, one at a time so I would be able to put them back on in the same place. Then I removed the one screw using a nut driver and then put the new cycling thermostat in place. It was pretty easy.

The belt needed replaced

  • Customer: Judith from Guys Mills PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Once we realized we needed to take the FRONT off the dryer, not the back all went well. It was an easy fix and the part fix perfectly. Instead of $60 or more for a repairman, we spent less than $20 fixing the dryer.

Female end of the door catch broke

  • Customer: Tara from North Canton OH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
First I put the square female end iof the door catch kit nto the square hole as snug as I could. Then I gently pushed the door against the piece until I heard it click in to place. That's it!! SOOOOO SIMPLE--

Start and then kick out.

  • Customer: PHILLIP from AUSTIN MN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Two Phillips screws, and 2 5/16 bolts and the dryer is open for this repair. Remove the drum and note the placement of the drive belt. Then using a pipe wrench grab the rear plastic fan housing, at the rear of the motor shaft, and turn the front of the motor shaft CLOCKWISE. If the Fan is ceased (as it was in my case) you will need to use locking vice grips (at least 3 or 4 between the fan blades to stop the fan blades from turning on the rear shaft.) while your turning the front of the motor's shaft. If done properly, you should have about 25-30 turns before the motor is free for replacement.
Once this is accomplished, mounting the new motor back into the dryer is a simple matter of reversing your steps. But keep note of the belt placement and the motor wiring placement before starting.

Won`t dry

  • Customer: Guillermo from Royal Palm Beach FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
Remove backpanel, ohms cut off thermostat, no good, disconnet two wires from defective part and installed a new one.

Dryer wouldn't heat

  • Customer: Daniel from Pinellas Park AL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
I attempted to take the back panel off the dryer only to discover all I had to do (after removing 10 or so screws) is remove the lower base plate in the front of the dryer. I also had removed the door which turned out to be unnecessary. After removing a guard in front of the heating element (2 screws) I yanked the the element housing that contained the heating element and then disconnected the 6 wires. Using my first ever, newly bought multi meter for only $9.99 from Radio Shack, I turned the dial to the infinity section and check the element for continuency. I did this by touching the meter's two probes to the element's terminals were the wires connect. The element was fine. Then I checked the two sensors the same way. The sensor furtherest away from the element's terminals didn't have a constant signal so I assumed that that sensor was bad. Well, come to find out, one sensor is open and the other in closed... only when the temp. changes do they operate by opening and closing the current. By this time I had already ordered the part so it was too late. Surprisingly, the part came in 2 days. I ordered it Sunday night and i figured it would be sent out Monday but it was already in the air Monday morning... Great service! I replaced both sensors and the dryer works like it did when I first got it.

Rust marks on clothing

  • Customer: Patrick from Manor TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Our dryer was leaving rust marks on our clothes that looked like a brown pencil mark. It turns out that the rear drum seal in our dryer was absorbing gunk over the years and we had to change it. It was a fairly easy fix but did require pulling the dryer almost completely apart. While we had it apart we changed this as well.

Anyone with a socket stet and screw driver can get it all apart.
On our machine, start by removing the 2 screws that hold the lint filter neck to the top of the machine (under the flap).
Then pry the top of the machine up in the front. It will pop up and you can fold it back.
Then you will need to remove 2 bolts and undo the plug.
From there you can pull the front off and get to the drum.Make sure you note how the belt tensioner comes out (under the drum) and how the belt is routed. It's quite basic.
After you get the drum off, peel the old seal(s) off and put the new seal(s) on as directed.

Pretty easy and our clean clothes stay clean now.

Poor dryer performance and slow drying!

  • Customer: Stephen from Wilson NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
I knew that the dryer needed a new belt and since the dryer was also failing to dry the clothes in one cycle, I decided to replace the three thermostats, figuring that I might as well do all three if I'm going to open up the dryer. I downloaded a schematic of the dryer from the Whirlpool web site, which helped me to order the right parts and see how I would be able to make the repairs. Once I figured out how to get to the drum for the belt replacement, installation was quite easy.

First step was to unplug the dryer, remove the vent hose and remove the back panel with a nut driver. Once the back panel was removed, it was easy to see all three sensors. The heating element unit was easy to remove - two screws. This made it easier to replace the sensor. Each sensor was shaped differently, making it easier to decide what went where. This normally would not have been a problem, but the part numbers have changed for this dryer. I could have also cross referenced the parts by using the partselect.com web site.

To access the dryer drum, I had to remove two screws on the back of the dryer that are located in two tabs that hold the control panel to the dryer cabinet. Once removed, it was easy to lift the top of the cabinet and swing it up and against a nearby wall for support while I replaced the belt.
I removed the old belt from the motor pulley, and then just removed the whole drum. I placed the new belt around the drum, placed the drum back in position. With my wife supporting the drum, it was easy to bring the belt through a guide and slip over the motor pulley. Then, I rotated the drum manually to make sure the belt wasn't twisted.

After ten minutes of putting everything back together, it was time to plug in the dryer and test it. I did it without a load first and checked the vent for hot air. After that, we did a couple of loads...one on high and one on perma press, and when the cycle was over, the clothes were dry!

Delivery time from PartSelect was super fast! Prices are excellent, and I really appreciate such a helpful web site. Anyone with a small amount of mechanical ability and "do it yourself" experience can save $$$ by fixing it yourself. Having someone service this dryer would have cost me more just to replace the belt.....let alone the added insurance of replacing the sensors. And, I learned that if the heating element should fail, replacing it would be a snap, and would start with a visit toe partselect.com!

Dryer on/off door switch broke and needed replaced.

  • Customer: David from Fort Myers FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Took the dryer top off and removed the bad part. Looked it up online and found a replacement by looking for whirlpool parts. They didn't have one at the local parts stores so I ordered the part online and had it mailed within three days. I replaced it quite easily. It worked and I put everything back together and my wife took over the tricky part of drying the laundry! The repair was quite easy for a non mechanical person like me.

Dryer continued to run non-stop

  • Customer: Gary from Rossville IN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Found that when the dryer continued to run after the door was opened that the door switch had gone bad. I unpluged the Dryer, opened the top of the dryer to get access to the switch by lifting top up with fingers and a gentle prying of a flat screwdriver to release spring clips holding it down. I then unplugged the wires from the switch and removed the 2 screws that held the switch in. Then reverse this process when you get your new switch from part select (which we received in 2 days) and the total time to fix it took aprox. 10-15 min. total to do. Easy fix for ANY handy person at home!
All Instructions for the AED4370TQ0
76-90 of 660